One of the UK's most illustrious sea-cliff challenges follows a spectacular line of flake cracks up the lower Great Wall and finishes up the narrow central corner. Start below a small corner at the base of the left side of the wall.
1) 4c, 22m. Move steeply up the corner, which eases as it trends left to a triangular niche. Move right and take cracks to a semi-hanging stance on threads below double overhangs.
2) 6a, 25m. Undercut wildly left between the overhangs and continue up the wide crack above to a ledge at its top. Climb the technical corner/groove above to its end before traversing rightwards to a stance at the base of a corner.
3) 5b, 20m. Climb the corner, which is technical and sustained in its lower half to an exit on the right at its end. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
There is no longer a peg at the crux, in spite of various trolls on UKC forums,this has not been replaced by a bolt, the consensus seems to be that Pentire should remain bolt free. Adequate protection can be arranged to protect the crux many people think it is safer to run the first two pitches together.
Extreme Rock , West Country Climbs , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , James' Summer Ticklist , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings , The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside) , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , South West in Extremis
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