Rockfax Description
The easiest route on the face and consequently a popular excursion for newcomers to trad climbing. Generally good rock and a logical line.
Start on the right side of the split in the face, just right of Via Irma.
1) IV+, 25m. Climb a crack, initially easy then becoming steeper, to a stance on the left.
2) IV, 30m. Continue in the same line following the continuation crack.
3) IV-, 35m. Continue in the crack then follow the corner-chimney above.
4) IV-, 35m. Aim for the roof above, climbing the right of three wide cracks, then move diagonally right below the roof to a yellow niche.
5) IV, 40m. Climb direct up a corner-chimney, overcoming an bulge on good holds, to a stance on a ledge.
6) IV, 40m. Climb direct from the belay and enter a narrow chimney crack. Climb this - sometimes wet - then exit left for a couple of moves before moving back into the chimney. Continue more easily on the left to a ledge.
7) IV, 35m. Climb the cracked rock above, moving right. Overcome a bulge and continue in the crack before making a short traverse right to the stance in a niche below a ramp.
8) III+, 30m. Climb the vegetated ramp more easily.
9) III, 30m. Continue in the same line.
10) II, 25m. Easy scrambling leads to the Chamois Terrace. © Rockfax
Del Torso, Lezuo 1935.
Dolomites easy multipitch , Dolomites
User | Date | Notes | ||
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adixon10 | 10 Aug |
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βeta: As of July 2025, the way to descend is as follows – walk left along the Chamois Terrace. At one point, after 15 minutes or so, the path goes into a very deep dark cleft. On the way out of this the path is very narrow and has thin via ferrata style wires that at one point go through a rock window. At the end of these the path turns a corner back onto grass then continues round to the right. About 10 minutes after this the path goes up quite steeply and looking ahead down to the left you can see other paths coming up and easier ground than the vertical cliffs there have been off to your left up until that point. You come to a slightly dirty easy angled fairly short gully. Go down this then move right on a good path to the first 25 meter abseil. After this move right again along the path towards a large cairn. Down to the right of this is a good abseil point but it looked to us that it would be too far from there with our 50m rope. A short scramble down from this again to the right is another good abseil point. From this one it is a 25m meter abseil down to the ground. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: As of July 2025, the way to descend is as follows – walk left along the Chamois Terrace. At one point, after 15 minutes or so, the path goes into a very deep dark cleft. On the way out of this the path is very narrow and has thin via ferrata style wires that at one point go through a rock window. At the end of these the path turns a corner back onto grass then continues round to the right. About 10 minutes after this the path goes up quite steeply and looking ahead down to the left you can see other paths coming up and easier ground than the vertical cliffs there have been off to your left up until that point. You come to a slightly dirty easy angled fairly short gully. Go down this then move right on a good path to the first 25 meter abseil. After this move right again along the path towards a large cairn. Down to the right of this is a good abseil point but it looked to us that it would be too far from there with our 50m rope. A short scramble down from this again to the right is another good abseil point. From this one it is a 25m meter abseil down to the ground. |
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Ian Carey | 5 Jul, 2024 |
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βeta: Was climbed shortly after a period of heavy rain. The route was surprisingly dry. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Was climbed shortly after a period of heavy rain. The route was surprisingly dry. |
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peakschris | 12 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Good day out. Pretty loose and gear was sparse, so although the climbing felt easy it felt scary at times. Rockfax is misleading on the descent - follow the terrace left and do not descend until you've gone past a very exposed section with via-ferrata-style wire. The path then ascends before arriving at a 20m abseil (we saw someone downclimbing this) and then a 25m abseil (or easier downclimb). You end up pretty much under 2nd sella tower then follow the path back east to the car parking | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Good day out. Pretty loose and gear was sparse, so although the climbing felt easy it felt scary at times. Rockfax is misleading on the descent - follow the terrace left and do not descend until you've gone past a very exposed section with via-ferrata-style wire. The path then ascends before arriving at a 20m abseil (we saw someone downclimbing this) and then a 25m abseil (or easier downclimb). You end up pretty much under 2nd sella tower then follow the path back east to the car parking |
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Grade: IV ***
(Torre Wundt)