Probably the least repeated of the classic routes at Piz Ciavazes. The rock is predominantly solid and the route is reasonably well equipped.
Start below the three chimney flakes 10m left of the gully.
1) IV, 40m. Climb any of the three flakes with equal difficulty, trending left until they join to form a chimney. Climb the chimney, branching right on a yellow flake, then move back into the chimney to reach a grassy ledge. Step right to the stance.
2) IV+, 30m. Climb a slab direct then move left on vegetated rock before climbing direct to a stance below a yellow niche.
3) III, 35m. Move right out of the niche and climb chossy ground to a clearing and a bolted stance.
4) III+, 30m. Climb direct then move left to a small pillar. Climb this then meander up easy ground to vegetated ledge. Follow this right to a good grassy stance.
5) IV, 30m. Move back left for a few metres then climb direct towards a niche. Climb this direct then move more easily right, past a series of large yellow overhangs on the left.
6) IV+, 20m. Climb a fantastic grey slab right then back left to a stance on a ledge.
7) VI, 20m. Traverse 5m left then climb the right side of a yellow corner. Traverse right a few metres below the roof then move up to an uncomfortable stance.
8) VI+, 10m. Move up to the roof then traverse below it on good holds. At the right edge, climb direct to a bolted belay in a niche.
9) VII-, 40m. Traverse right and enter a steep corner. Climb this - sustained but with plenty of pro - and exit right, ignoring the direct continuation corner.
10) IV, 25m. Climb a grey slab direct and right then follow a ramp left to enter the long corner.
11) V+, 45m. Continue up the corner until a natural break, and exit left here to a ledge (intermediate belay possible). Step left and climb another corner, and follow this left to the ledge. © Rockfax
Pellegrinon, Bohnel 1964.
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