Dynamic and varied climbing make this another popular route on the face. The route is sometimes called the 'Route of Friendship, Schubert and Matthies' in memory of their friend Harald Siebold who died in a climbing accident. Equipped stances and some fixed gear.
Start 20m left of the huge rift in the rock, at the base of the rightwards-trending overhanging corner-crack below a series of roofs.
1) V+, 30m. Climb the steep corner then exit left at a peg. Climb cracks direct towards the roof then traverse right below it and move up to a stance on its right edge.
2) V, 40m. Follow a long crack, moving right into a short corner then back left into the crack and pull through a niche to reach a ledge. This pitch can be split.
3) VI-, 40m. Climb a corner-crack left of the ledge to a small pulpit. Follow a crack direct then left again to a stance in the yellow crack.
4) V-, 40m. Follow the yellow crack right to a pulpit, then move back left. Climb direct up the well-pegged wall above to a bolted stance.
5) V, 25m. Traverse left around the arete then climb direct to a ledge.
6) V, 45m. Move diagonally right from the ledge then climb a crack to another terrace on the right. Step right and climb direct, keeping left of a bulge until reaching three pegs on top of a pillar below an overhang.
7) IV, 45m. Traverse right below the overhang then move up and back left to a ledge. Climb direct to a niche (possible belay) then exit this left and continue direct to the ledge. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Right hand side of lower tier . Piz Ciavazes
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