Tremendous climbing and situations with a strenuous lower section and an exposed finale. Start as for The Gates of Delirium.
1) 5b, 18m. Climb to the small cave/hole then traverse steeply right passing a peg to a belay.
2) 6a, 20m. Move back left and climb a conspicuous flake-crack to an overhang at its top. Head left and then make steep hard moves past the overhang to gain less steep ground and a belay below a chimney.
3) 5c, 20m. Climb the chimney then move left. Pull up into a flake/groove and follow this to the top. © Rockfax
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