Rockfax Description
A relatively popular excursion with a lot of absorbing climbing and a decisive final pitch. Start at a block.
1) 5a, 18m. A bold pitch. Stride left from the block across a rib to a groove and climb it to a small ledge. Move left across the steep wall and then up into a niche. Exit the niche rightwards and climb to a stance and belay under an open groove.
2) 5a, 20m. Take the groove to where it bulges and move up right to a slabby easing. Continue up the short corner and vertical wall to a good ledge and belay. This is the top of pitch 1 of Communist Convert.
3) 4c, 25m. Pitch 2 of Communist Convert.
4) 5c, 18m. Head back left and then up to a corner under the large roof. Make thin moves up the slab and corner to gain the right end of the roof. Pull out right to reach an excellent crack and finish up it. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A four pitch beauty. A contender for best E1 in England with four contrasting pitches.
1. 5a. Better than it looks with good rough rock.
2. 5b. A superb delicate groove.
3. 4c. An exposed rightward traverse is not easy to lead or follow.
4. 5c. From the fine stance climb past the peg with difficulty.
Hard Rock , MIA logbook must haves! , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Caff's Cool E1s List , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Hard Rock 2020 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Hard Rock 2020 , Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection , Lakeland E1 Classics , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Lakes Hard Rock , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Ewans bug lakes ticklist , Lake District Ultimate Ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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AlonsoATCO | 30 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Abseiled down to the tree (new maillon in place), then down to the bags (50m ropes). Reckon a 60m single abseil would get you to a grassy ledge where you can then scramble down. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Abseiled down to the tree (new maillon in place), then down to the bags (50m ropes). Reckon a 60m single abseil would get you to a grassy ledge where you can then scramble down. |
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JSudd | 20 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Gear is very nut intensive, bring offsets and micros. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Gear is very nut intensive, bring offsets and micros. |
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CharleyAnn | 28 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Ticks and midges aplenty. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Ticks and midges aplenty. |
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Graeme Hammond | 21 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Currently abseil station at the top where it is possible to abseil to an oak tree half way down (end of p2 of Anarchist) and re abseil (no tat). this was fine with 50s. Don't think would reach in one even with 60s. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Currently abseil station at the top where it is possible to abseil to an oak tree half way down (end of p2 of Anarchist) and re abseil (no tat). this was fine with 50s. Don't think would reach in one even with 60s. |
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spidey | 16 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: half way ab point could do with new cord replacement. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: half way ab point could do with new cord replacement. |
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gjd | 15 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Beware! The abseil tat at the top of pitch 3 has worn through the sheath. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Beware! The abseil tat at the top of pitch 3 has worn through the sheath. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gimmer Crag)