UKC

Restricted Access

The National Trust own the crag and whilst it’s not on open access land with a right of access, the Trust kindly allow public access for climbers, on the condition that we look after the crag. Here are some simple tips to help you enjoy your visit, look after the area and make sure we retain access for the future.

  • Be considerate and aware that we share this quiet dale with other users. Anglers by the river, walkers and local residents all value this place for its peaceful setting so keep a lid on shouting or screaming.
  • Parking is a serious issue here - see the 'parking and approach' section below for detailed advice.
  • Van camping and biving at the crag has increasingly caused friction with locals over the last few years and is now strongly discouraged. It’s very noticeable in the dale and there are places much better suited to this so head elsewhere.
  • Toileting in the area around the crag is also becoming more of a problem and its crucial that climbers minimise their impact to avoid future access problems. Don’t be tempted to use the bushes – use the public toilets at Millers Dale station a very short trip away. If you can’t do that, carry a ‘wag bag’ and pack out all human waste and toilet paper. This special place deserves better than a minefield of human poo around it.
  • Normal practice now is to remove quickdraws at the end of the day and not to leave overnight. Though leaving in-situ draws is common practice on other crags around the world, here, locals have objected.  
  • Keeping the crag and surrounding area litter free is a good way of showing others that climbers care. Take everything home with you including litter you find to dispose of responsibly.
  • Over use of chalk might not look like much to climbers, but it can be an unwelcome intrusion to others. Make sure you clean off tick marks and brush excess chalk off holds at the end of your session.
  • Be vigilant for loose rock. Even on well established lines bits still do drop off, especially higher up on the crag.
  • Some of the routes have high first bolts, a clipstick or a well placed pad may save a twisted ankle (or worse).
22m.

Rockfax Description
A classic polished Peak landmark. There are a few ways of doing the lower crux and the upper wall is not to be underestimated with a tricky move or two moving right near the top. © Rockfax

FA. Ron Fawcett 1981. This ascent signified the change of Raven Tor from an aid climbing crag to a free climbing crag..

Ticklists

Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+ , Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+ , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Peak Sport 3 Star Routes 6c+-7c+ , World Graded List , Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue , 28 Decent Sport Routes , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rock cats getting strong , Big Ron routes for mortals , Sheff , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible , Stuff I wanna do

Feedback

User Date Notes
193 2 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: newer left hand version of the crux , ( past the added bolt ) easier than the original , no more than 7b with this sequence . But understandable that it is now the more used way as the line is more logical perhaps
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: newer left hand version of the crux , ( past the added bolt ) easier than the original , no more than 7b with this sequence . But understandable that it is now the more used way as the line is more logical perhaps
doylo 18 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: You can\'t give a route that polished three stars. Hard to onsight but not too bad to flash!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: You can't give a route that polished three stars. Hard to onsight but not too bad to flash!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Raven Tor (Miller's Dale)

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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 118
Votes cast 103
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Onsighted
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Brachiation Dance

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Water-cum-Jolly)

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