UKC

44m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5a, 12m. Make a hard first move to gain a left-slanting crack/ramp-line, then continue to a grassy landing on a stance under a bulge. Alternatively, start up Conclusor then traverse diagonally right to the stance. This is very scruffy but it avoids that first move bringing the route down to VS 4c.
2) 4c, 30m. Climb the groove above to a bulge. Pass this and climb the continuation groove, making good use of its right wall, to join and finish up the final section of Medusa. © Rockfax

FA. D Johnson, D Mellor 1960.

Ticklists

Peak Rock/10/White Life

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User Date Notes
DrGav 19 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: We only did the direct start - so can't really compare - but have to disagree with the above comment. The 5a start that we did was hard, polished, loose and vegetated. Hated it. Now i think of it though, there was another flake directly below the belay point - maybe that was the direct start? On a separate, altho partially related note, for anyone with hayfever - this route/area in mid-June gave me and my mate the most horrendous allergic reaction. Think atrocious sneezing, puffed eyes and worst of all - red swollen itchy bumps all over our arms, shoulders and back of the neck.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We only did the direct start - so can't really compare - but have to disagree with the above comment. The 5a start that we did was hard, polished, loose and vegetated. Hated it. Now i think of it though, there was another flake directly below the belay point - maybe that was the direct start? On a separate, altho partially related note, for anyone with hayfever - this route/area in mid-June gave me and my mate the most horrendous allergic reaction. Think atrocious sneezing, puffed eyes and worst of all - red swollen itchy bumps all over our arms, shoulders and back of the neck.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 15
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Terrazza Crack

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage North)

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