The crag is owned and managed by Natural England and located in the Derbyshire Dales National Nature Reserve.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update 28th June 2024 - All routes from "Plaque Crack"/"Rock Biter" northwards (leftwards, looking in) are currently open for climbing. The Kestrels have just fledged so to give them a few days grace, the restriction on The Bay/Raven Buttress will remain until 5th July. The whole crag will therefore be open from Saturday 6th July.
Rockfax Description
1) 5a, 12m. Make a hard first move to gain a left-slanting crack/ramp-line, then continue to a grassy landing on a stance under a bulge. Alternatively, start up Conclusor then traverse diagonally right to the stance. This is very scruffy but it avoids that first move bringing the route down to VS 4c.
2) 4c, 30m. Climb the groove above to a bulge. Pass this and climb the continuation groove, making good use of its right wall, to join and finish up the final section of Medusa. © Rockfax
FA. D Johnson, D Mellor 1960.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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DrGav | 19 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: We only did the direct start - so can't really compare - but have to disagree with the above comment. The 5a start that we did was hard, polished, loose and vegetated. Hated it. Now i think of it though, there was another flake directly below the belay point - maybe that was the direct start? On a separate, altho partially related note, for anyone with hayfever - this route/area in mid-June gave me and my mate the most horrendous allergic reaction. Think atrocious sneezing, puffed eyes and worst of all - red swollen itchy bumps all over our arms, shoulders and back of the neck. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: We only did the direct start - so can't really compare - but have to disagree with the above comment. The 5a start that we did was hard, polished, loose and vegetated. Hated it. Now i think of it though, there was another flake directly below the belay point - maybe that was the direct start? On a separate, altho partially related note, for anyone with hayfever - this route/area in mid-June gave me and my mate the most horrendous allergic reaction. Think atrocious sneezing, puffed eyes and worst of all - red swollen itchy bumps all over our arms, shoulders and back of the neck. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Stanage North)