48m, 2 pitches.
Rockfax Description
The crack and long twisting groove right of the thorn tree.
1) 4c, 22m. Climb the groove, then move right and up into a niche. Climb up and slightly left to a grassy ledge. Move left to belay below the flake.
2) 4c, 26m. Follow the wide flake-crack to its top, then traverse right easily, passing a yew tree. Climb the groove, pulling out left on to the wall (peg) in a good position. Finish direct. © Rockfax
FA. Oliver Woolcock, Rod Brown 1964.
Ticklists
Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Federico Picinali | 11 Oct, 2024 |
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βeta: Very large flake came down from the top of the first pitch, just below the ivy on the ledge. It looked solid, compared to the rest, but it clearly was not. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Very large flake came down from the top of the first pitch, just below the ivy on the ledge. It looked solid, compared to the rest, but it clearly was not. |
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| pembrc | 25 Jul, 2024 |
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βeta: Lots of suspect rock in middle of first pitch | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lots of suspect rock in middle of first pitch |
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| sishaw | 12 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Take care, lots of loose rock. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Take care, lots of loose rock. |
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| craigswoods | 15 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Very nice route. Second pitch is definatly the better of the two. Didn't feel like VS to me. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Very nice route. Second pitch is definatly the better of the two. Didn't feel like VS to me. |
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Route of Interest
Gargoyle Flake
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Bamford Edge)