The crag is owned and managed by Natural England and located in the Derbyshire Dales National Nature Reserve.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update 28th June 2024 - All routes from "Plaque Crack"/"Rock Biter" northwards (leftwards, looking in) are currently open for climbing. The Kestrels have just fledged so to give them a few days grace, the restriction on The Bay/Raven Buttress will remain until 5th July. The whole crag will therefore be open from Saturday 6th July.
Rockfax Description
A fine finish via the hanging prow out in space provides the highlight. Short-lived but thrilling and very exposed.
1) 4b, 26m. Follow the slippery flake of Medusa to the shattered wall, then continue up the steep groove to reach a cramped stance on the slabby gangway. The way on is where you don't want it to be; out into space.
2) 5c, 22m. Climb up the ramp a little way then swing right and up to a tiny ledge. Gain the undercut crack on the right with difficulty and follow it to the top. Well protected but wild. © Rockfax
FA. John Loy, D Mellor (1 pt. of aid) 1960. FFA. (Direct Finish) Chris Jackson 1976.
The Peak: Past and Present , World Graded List , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Definitive *** Peak Lime , On Peak Rock , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
User | Date | Notes | ||
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MatthewK | 29 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Peg safely held a fall from the crux :-) | ||
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βeta: Peg safely held a fall from the crux :-) |
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Al Evans | 15 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: A great effort by John in 1960 with one point of aid. The crag was virttually unclimbed on at that time. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A great effort by John in 1960 with one point of aid. The crag was virttually unclimbed on at that time. |
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roger whetton | 22 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: I'd say that you've got The Sinister Finish right at mild E1 5b (and I'd also say, if I dare, that its better than the ordinary finish!) | βeta? | |
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βeta: I'd say that you've got The Sinister Finish right at mild E1 5b (and I'd also say, if I dare, that its better than the ordinary finish!) |
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Mick B | 5 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: Glad to see it upgraded here.The step right never felt like HVS 5b. | ||
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βeta: Glad to see it upgraded here.The step right never felt like HVS 5b. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)