No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag) have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!
The land above the crag is now designated open access land.
Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid.
There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully.
Rockfax Description
The traverse. Start in the gully and move up to where a ledge system cuts left across the steep face. Take the rising traverse left along this. When the ledge finishes, move across the slab to the top of Serpent. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Starts right of Hi, Jack! Traverse leftwards and up finishing at Symphony Crack.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Butel | 13 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: Way lower than the grade suggests. Probs HS 4a | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Way lower than the grade suggests. Probs HS 4a |
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Jackjohnson1992 | 1 Nov, 2021 |
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βeta: This route needs some stars | βeta? | |
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βeta: This route needs some stars |
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)