4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This is what most people come to climb, and it is a great outing, one of the best in the World! The original route is described here and it requires an equally matched team, as the traverse on the last pitch is no place for a fall. Start below a corner/groove capped by an overlap.
1) 4c, 40m. Climb the left edge of the groove to reach the high tide starting ledges. From here, move up and right to a ledge below a conspicuous V-notch in the arete. If you start from the high tide ledge then you can climb straight up to join the traverse-line and go to the Wen crack belay in one pitch.
2) 4c, 22m. Follow a horizontal line of weakness leftwards, past a difficult section to a hanging belay in the crack of Wen.
3) 4c, 37m. Climb the wide flake-crack leftwards to a small ledge at 15m. Continue on the same line up flakes for 10m and then traverse left to good holds that lead down and left for 5m to a belay in a niche in the Concrete Chimney.
4) 4c, 40m. This is the most revered pitch on the climb, the route finding is a work of art, and somehow you climb across an overhanging wall in-balance all the way. From the belay, head up the left arete to a line of holds leading left below the roof. Where these holds run out, descend the steep slab, aiming for a fin of rock. A crux move down onto this and then left sees the difficulties over. Move left into a groove, and then horizontally left past another groove, to eventually step down onto a slab. Traverse the slab to a hanging groove with an aluminium peg at its base. A committing move up this leads to an exit left at its top. Walk way back along a small path to a large block bay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A major UK classic taking a rising traverse leftwards across Wen Slab to a sensational finale where the zawn drops away below your feet. The climbing itself is not hard but the grade is well justified due to the exposure and the consequences of either the leader or the second falling off the final pitch into empty space. Carrying prussics is highly recommended. Traditionally climbed in four pitches but the first is often bypassed in the common event of big seas.

Ticklists: Hard Rock, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List, Very good routes in the UK, HVS Adventures, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!, Darrencabowabo,s hit list, Must-do routes, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, My List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Get out on Rock, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, MUMC Ticklist, ICAS Climbing Club, Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist, North wales road to ruins HVS, 2016 Targets, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), High Quality Adventure routes, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Caelan visits, Hobo Unicorn Essentials, Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, Extreme Girdle, Pre-MIA Wishlist.

Paul Sagar 31/Dec/18 AltLd O/S

NYE = New Year’s Epic. Somehow we managed to faff around such that when I started leading pitch 4, dusk was already descending. I topped out as the darkness fell, having mis-read the middle section and having to down climb, retrieve gear, sort out rope drag, etc etc. No draws or slings left for the final groove, so just ran it out. Poor Holly was then left to do the pitch in the dark. Oh, and all the holds were wet. Luckily we had head torches (thanks JT for telling us to take them!), but it was still utterly epic. Holly managed to negotiate terrain that 4c really doesn’t do justice to, not least as she couldn’t see where her feet were going. Finally topped out about 6pm. Then there was a mini epic getting the ab rope back, and an extended walk off because somehow we managed to go over Holyhead Mountain, rather than around it. Back at the car for 7pm, with a lot of concerned texts to reply to. BEST NEW YEAR’S EVE EVER!

with HollyP
HollyP 31/Dec/18 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & 3. Terrifying end climbing in the dark with a head torch! Exhilarating though, one to come back to in the warm daylight!

fweatherall1 18/Nov/18 AltLd
NualaK 17/Nov/18 AltLd O/S
with Sam Marks
iainJ 17/Nov/18 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches (HT start). First pitch traverse wet, start of last pitch gopping. Kiran's first multipitch.

with Kiran Mistry
Sam Marks 17/Nov/18 AltLd O/S
with NualaK
thompsettjack 29/Oct/18 AltLd O/S


with Beachy
Beach 29/Oct/18 AltLd
malone 23/Oct/18 AltLd
with Ed hastings
topsyturvy 19/Oct/18 AltLd O/S

Simply brilliant. Had the zawn to ourselves. A fair bit of seepage on the final pitch.

with Pero
Pero 19/Oct/18 AltLd

From high tide ledge, in three pitches. Led P2 and P4.

freudy_love 15/Oct/18 AltLd O/S

Started off the ledges and finished up the last pitch of rubble.

Captain Solo 15/Oct/18 AltLd

Finished up Rubble in the failing light as 4th pitch wet.

Chelsey Robinson 03/Oct/18 2nd O/S
BC 03/Oct/18 Lead O/S

An experience to remember. Turned out to be a near epic. Got dark rather quickly and climbing with one head torch between us, after xbasjng tail from a slow group a head of us. We both did well to keep our cool and problem solve our way out of it. Started at climbing at 5 back at the car for 12. Epic night! Thanks Elizabeth

FelixJT 30/Sep/18 AltLd
WilliamRupp 30/Sep/18 AltLd O/S
with FelixJT
tom_lewis89 22/Sep/18 AltLd

I took 1+3 > Barrie got lucky with the damp pitch 2 and the damp cruxy pitch 4, both of which he tackled with aplomb.

Barrie Schofield II 22/Sep/18 AltLd
Hidden 15/Sep/18 AltLd O/S
AtomicBlonde 09/Sep/18 2nd O/S
roym 29/Aug/18 AltLd O/S

Beautiful route, been on the ticklist for a long time!

J Whittaker 29/Aug/18 AltLd O/S

The full hit from the original start. Last pitch is absolutely quality.

Tom Fullen 29/Aug/18 AltLd O/S

Top quality.

with roym
Stuart Walker 29/Aug/18 AltLd O/S

1 and 3

Hidden 28/Aug/18 AltLd O/S
spragglerocks 28/Aug/18 AltLd rpt

Did 3 pitches at high tide. Led P2, enjoyed it more today than last time even with the wind.

with j_duds
themattyshep 27/Aug/18 Lead O/S

Bottom two pitches into Wen

with Amy L
Hidden 25/Aug/18 AltLd dnf
Lady Vee 25/Aug/18 AltLd dnf

Led first two pitches. Julian dropped his belay plate on the switch over so finished up second pitch of Wen. Need to come back to finish.

with JulianB
Pixie-Andy 25/Aug/18 Lead O/S

Geometry GCSE in a Dream of White Horses!

with Tom , lizzyjones.uk
lizzyjones.uk 25/Aug/18 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/18 AltLd O/S
JonesE 21/Aug/18 AltLd O/S

Looked intimidating from the promontory but is much more featured than it looks once on the climb. Absolute joyous romp all the way, the only sketchy bit was the down climb onto the last stance. P1 & P3 (3 pitched from the high tide ledge).

with WeeLee
metrorat 21/Aug/18 Lead O/S

A thing of beauty

with Amy Wight
therat 19/Aug/18 Lead O/S
Jaz conlon 11/Aug/18 AltLd O/S
K Farrell 11/Aug/18 AltLd rpt

Managed to start in the right place this time! Absolutely love this place - great day climbing as a three just before the rain rolled in.

with Jaz conlon, Christian PMC
Hidden 07/Aug/18 AltLd O/S
paultaylor 07/Aug/18 AltLd O/S
with jezb1
Adhe 05/Aug/18 Lead O/S
Catkinson1 05/Aug/18 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/18 AltLd
Michael Aylen 30/Jul/18 2nd O/S

Finished in the dark the light house was helpful. A big adventure

with chris marriot, Ben Graham
steve_gibbs 25/Jul/18 AltLd O/S
ali.scott 25/Jul/18 AltLd O/S

Sooo good.

Hidden 24/Jul/18 AltLd O/S
BPaske 24/Jul/18 AltLd
with was
Karlos 22/Jul/18 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3. First three pitches each had perhaps one delicate move, hardest was thin crimp on P2. P4 is the hardest IMO, but jugs all of the way and always something good to stand on. Only perhaps 3 hard moves, all difficult reaches down and left to access next section. Bomber gear throughout, lovely atmosphere. Had the whole crag to ourselves!?

with Stewart Moody
Garston 22/Jul/18 2nd β

Rog pulled his groin so Paul led and I seconded. The sheer scale of this climb is just stunning. Looks completely blank until your on it. Hot sunshine as mist went and an absolutely brilliant climb. Quite easy and juggy up to end of 3rd pitch and rock grippy enough to pad at times. 4th pitch is the beast. Couple of technical moves and even got a heel hook in to come round the block. 1 moment I thought there was a chance of coming off but was all good. Epic climb and an epic day.

Hidden 22/Jul/18 Lead O/S
beds74 22/Jul/18 Lead

Client day with Chris and Roger. Sadly Roger had an injury so sat this one out...next time! Took Chris across which made his day. He climbed the route fantastically. Started at sea level too. Well done. Repeat.

JoeWilliams 21/Jul/18 AltLd O/S
with Mike Napier
matthewbpt 21/Jul/18 AltLd O/S

Absolutely amazing day out. We planned the route for a month and it truly lived up to the hype. Amazing exposure, but easy moves throughout so never really felt in danger.

with JimBee
Andrew171 21/Jul/18 AltLd O/S
JimBee 21/Jul/18 AltLd O/S

50m rap rope got us to high tide ledges with c.10m spare. Climbed with Matt’s 50m halves. Led our first pitch (top of P1 and 2/3rds of real P2). Seconded P3. Led P4 - epic! Camalots 0.3-3, Dragons 0.5-1, Rocks 1-10, SL offset rocks 5-10, Wallnuts 3-8. 3x240cm, 1x180cm, 8x120cm, 8x60cm, 6 dmm revolvers. 3x25cm & 2x18cm draws. 2:45pm ab in, 8:15pm top out. Awesome!

Rob892 21/Jul/18 AltLd O/S


Wyn Bach 15/Jul/18 2nd O/S

Amazing route. Can't really say that you second this route both parties have to be competent. There was some rain before I started the last pitch which made it intresting.

with Ched
Ched 15/Jul/18 Lead rpt

Gwyntog iawn

with Wyn Bach
Super-Afro 15/Jul/18 Lead O/S
with Ben , Matt Meggitt
Hidden 14/Jul/18 AltLd O/S
elliotphillips43 14/Jul/18 Lead O/S

Yippee got on this route with no traffic in front ! First ride on the white horses, and they did not disappoint. Unfortunately, we timed it arriving at high tide and had to start at the ledges. The platform at sea-level is real nice to start at (having experienced from Dde). Lead all 4 pitches. Final pitch traverse felt harder than 4c in the opening sequence, perhaps just feeling the airiness beneath me hee hee.

with Jen Shirlaw
MarkAstley 14/Jul/18 2nd O/S
with Simon B, Martin Smith
chris cockbain 10/Jul/18 AltLd O/S

mind-boggling. slightly handicapped myself by catching my hand in my belay device on the abseil in ...

adam clarke 09/Jul/18 AltLd O/S

Climbed as a three, which wasn't ideal given restricted stances but very sociable, and required a bit of thought with ropework. Fortunately, we were the only people in Wen Zawn! From high tide ledges, led p1/2 to Wen belay (generally easy climbing in an awesome situation, with two slightly trickier, bolder, short sections of traversing). Jim did well leading p3 (fairly sustained at 4b/4c), mincing for a *long* time trying to find the belay (couple of metres below the subsequent roof, in the concrete chimney). Led p4 - incredible. Looks terrifying from promontory/lower down route; however, unfolds delightfully. Nowhere hard, with ample and steady to place protection

with Adam Lynch, James Hulme
AnnJ 08/Jul/18 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/18 Lead O/S
Hubert Feret 07/Jul/18 Lead O/S

High tide start from the ledge

with AnnJ
Joshua Robertson 02/Jul/18 AltLd

Started at high tide point. Lead 1st and 3rd pitch.

Dizz 02/Jul/18 AltLd rpt
with Martina
Alex Croall 02/Jul/18 AltLd
Hidden 01/Jul/18 AltLd O/S
Jen BXM S ?/Jul/18 2nd
Samantha Dickson ?/Jul/18 2nd
Chris Murray 30/Jun/18 AltLd

Set off from Staffordshire at 4am to get on the crag for low tide. Led P1 from sea level +P3. As good as ever!

with DMC
DMC 30/Jun/18 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & P4

Shaw Brown 29/Jun/18 -
judith neaves 29/Jun/18 2nd
Clare Dean 27/Jun/18 AltLd O/S

From the ledges halfway up p1, ran p1 and 2 together. Sam lead p1+2 and p4. I lead p3.

with Sam2257
GazzerM55 27/Jun/18 AltLd

Another plum in the middle of the heatwave! We waited about 4 hours for a very slow party to get across! Then we followed the Manchester firemen - great crack!

with Ronnie Wriggs
Sam2257 27/Jun/18 AltLd O/S

an epic adventure! from ledges, some rope faff, lead p1&2 together, belay faff, crippled by tight shoes and heat 2nd'ing p3, shoe faff, lead p4 - absolutely outrageous pitch, an nowhere near as hard as it looked or as hard to find as I thought, rope drag faff, beer at top, then ab rope retrieval faff. glorious.

Brian Wilderspin 25/Jun/18 AltLd rpt
with Rav
mattgrange 25/Jun/18 Lead β

Stunning. Led all pitches in brilliant sunshine above a calm sea, ably seconded by Mike, starting from the very bottom, holds positive but slightly greasy. P2 and 3 had short sections of tricky climbing with slightly less gear than you want. P4 is unreal. Si & Mark kindly offered to leave their gear in P4 for me as we were pushed for time, in a moment of weakness I agreed, which detracted ever so slightly from this amazing climb...I'll be back to do it properly!

with Michael Woolcott
Rav 25/Jun/18 AltLd β

Awesome climb with some seriousness about it. The scale of the cliff face, the sea and the sound of the waves all add to the atmosphere of this climb. A fantastic route. Hanging belay stances can be a bit nerve-racking, don't hang around too long otherwise you'll get dead leg.

Harry Ellis 24/Jun/18 -

Shadowing Jez guiding

with Jez Brown, Jamie
Becky 23/Jun/18 AltLd O/S

Led 1 and 3

Matt2046 23/Jun/18 AltLd dog

Wrong shoes for such a big day, first time I’ve had to rest on rope to take shoes off mid climb

with Becky
danoflynn 21/Jun/18 AltLd O/S

'Oooof, maybe my favourite ever climb! Led P2 and 4, thought I would have a mare, but it was neigh bother

Andrew Barker 21/Jun/18 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 from the high start and P3. Classic.

richfitz 16/Jun/18 AltLd O/S
with Steve Garton
PatrickBoothroyd 16/Jun/18 AltLd O/S

Quality climbing, lead first and last pitches, went from the high tide start

with NigelBoothroyd
pftom 15/Jun/18 AltLd O/S
mattcyp88 15/Jun/18 Lead

Pitch 2 and 4. The path to the high tide abseil is more dangerous than anything on the route.

with Rich L
BrendanR 12/Jun/18 AltLd
Paul Collins 12/Jun/18 AltLd rpt
Hidden 12/Jun/18 AltLd O/S
Cotopaxii 12/Jun/18 AltLd O/S
with Zack
Idaftclimbdaft 11/Jun/18 -
Rp20 10/Jun/18 AltLd O/S

A deserved clasisic. Last pitch was fantastic. Sat at belay with heat stroke and a head ache.

with Sandro
SandroGH 10/Jun/18 AltLd O/S
with Rp20
Leo Woodhead 08/Jun/18 AltLd rpt

Still one of the most magical routes I've ever done. Abbed in at 8pm and finished as the sun went down. Absolutely stunning!

Hidden 07/Jun/18 AltLd
John Kelly 05/Jun/18 AltLd

5.40am start, drive Bangor pick up Jim, climb couple routes, home for 9.30pm

Harry Padley 05/Jun/18 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/18 AltLd O/S
Olly Chapman 04/Jun/18 AltLd O/S
scarmichael 03/Jun/18 AltLd O/S

Simply superb!

with Mihkel
Hidden 03/Jun/18 AltLd rpt
tc7118 03/Jun/18 2nd
Hidden 02/Jun/18 AltLd rpt
samkat 02/Jun/18 AltLd O/S

Matt had a little swim before starting. I lead pitch 1 & 3. He lead 2 and the crux 4! Great climb.

with Matt Telling
Hidden 31/May/18 2nd rpt
Rory Shaw 28/May/18 AltLd
with MacMan
Rafal Malczyk 26/May/18 Lead O/S
with Michael Jenei
Mark Reeves 19/May/18 Lead
Hidden 18/May/18 Lead O/S
tim whitaker 13/May/18 AltLd rpt
with Kat Smith
mapperley samurai 13/May/18 AltLd O/S

Did all 4 pitches. Lead P2 and 4. Lived up to expectations. Final pitch is the bomb, but all four pitches are distinct and interesting.

with Pete Frost
Katsmiff 13/May/18 AltLd O/S
with Tim Whitaker
guisboro andy 12/May/18 -
Anti-faff 12/May/18 Lead O/S

Outstanding, never desperate and not as scary as it looked from the other side. Felt more like extreme walking than climbing. Abbing in was the crux! :-D

with El Presidente
Josh Pitman 07/May/18 AltLd O/S

Absolute Belter!

Hidden 07/May/18 AltLd O/S
Andy Peak 1 30/Apr/18 Lead

In two pitches from the big ledge took about 1hr including abb back down. Amazing loved swinging aroun on the big blocks going along the last traverse, apparently went the wrong way by staying low on the traverse

rosiehawker 21/Apr/18 AltLd O/S

We skipped p1. I lead 2&3 together and Mike took the last pitch. Really enjoyable.

with mikeski
williap 21/Apr/18 Lead O/S
with Jase
Struck Lucky 21/Apr/18 AltLd

Fairly easy climbing but tricky route finding on last pitch. Great climb on a beautiful sunny day.

with Fez
fifthsunset 21/Apr/18 2nd O/S
mikeski 21/Apr/18 AltLd rpt

Last route of the day. Sun had set when we topped out!

Hidden 19/Apr/18 AltLd O/S
peter.herd 08/Apr/18 Lead
CharlieMack 08/Apr/18 Lead rpt
with Sarah adkin
Amy Pritchett 08/Apr/18 2nd
catrin289 01/Apr/18 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1/2 (from high tide ledge) and 4. Awesome route, great fun climbing although rather chilly and a little damp on the final pitch. Not that it mattered.

with Dave Adler
Hidden 01/Apr/18 AltLd
Octavian 01/Apr/18 AltLd
with galeron
Hidden 01/Apr/18 AltLd
Dan Wright 25/Mar/18 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2/4. Incredible experience. Hectic. Topped out in the dark, had a gorgeous sunset whilst on the wall... but damn did it get cold after that. Had some seals swimming in the waves crashing in to the cove below which added a nice touch. First multi-pitch - trial by fire.

with Tom Kirby
jasewilson ??/2018 -
Harry Martin ??/2018 -
Hidden ??/2018 -
shaun goodey ??/2018 -
shah 11/Nov/17 AltLd
Hidden 11/Nov/17 AltLd O/S
Dafydd Llywelyn 09/Oct/17 AltLd RP

6 and a half years after getting rained off and escaping sans prussiks finally climbed this climb. The climbing was excellent, as despite the greasiness and wet sections it was still excellent. 1st, 2nd and 4th pitches.

Steve Pickersgill 30/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Led 1 & 3

with Becky
Becky 30/Sep/17 AltLd

Led 2 and 4

Matt Schwarz 19/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Led 2 and 4

with Andy m
webby2203 17/Sep/17 Lead O/S


with rob harden, Gaz Mitchell
Hidden 17/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
Tom Livingstone 11/Sep/17 2nd rpt
with Zala Vidic, Matija Volontar
Quaidy Quaid 02/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

WOW if u have any fear of heights this will Cure it.

with RayG
RayG 02/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

From high tide start led pitch 1 and 3. First sea cliff climb, amazing.

MJHarle 27/Aug/17 -
with Alex and Matt
alexm198 27/Aug/17 AltLd rpt

Just as good the second time around. Jug pulling in the sky par excellence.

with Mike Harle, Matt Harle
eb202 27/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Started on P2. I led P2 & P4. Pleased to have finally done this; what a great position! It is bold in places but the climbing is straightforward so this was never worrying. Three great pitches.

with Mike505
Mike505 27/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

At last! Started on pitch 2 and lead the 3rd pitch, leaving the final space walk for Eugenie. Perfect first route for exploring the crag, a little less gear in areas than expected but easy moves. It made for a chilled start to the day.

with eb202
Matt Harle 27/Aug/17 AltLd rpt
sambeaumont 23/Aug/17 AltLd rpt

Led P1 and 3... Just as good second time round!

with Cam Bevan
Silasatkin 20/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/17 AltLd
Jonathan Hall 19/Aug/17 AltLd
with Hoyes
Milnes 19/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Rick
Hoyes 19/Aug/17 AltLd rpt
derekwwl 12/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

High tide ledge start. Lead P1 and P3.

ian hendy 12/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Thomas Bennett
DanielleMarie 08/Aug/17 2nd β
JRJones 02/Aug/17 AltLd
Tom McCabe 02/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

P3, after missing the first pitch due to sea conditions, still got pretty wet on the high tide start ledge. Last pitch manages to look impossible until you get there, stunning positions.

with JRJones
Tom.Sedgwick 01/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

I lead pitches one and three. Alex lead two and four. Absolutely spectacular traverse on the final pitch!

ClimbingAlex 01/Aug/17 AltLd rpt

Just as unbelievably good second time around. Led P2/P4.

James Underhill ?/Aug/17 Lead
Hidden 31/Jul/17 2nd
Hidden 29/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
HannahC 29/Jul/17 AltLd

High tide start P1 & P3. Surpassed expectations last pitch is amazing

Hidden 25/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Welly Matt 25/Jul/17 Lead O/S

choose wisely in allowing someone to overtake, it could be costly and double your time on the route!

NinaR 23/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Started on the ledge. In 3 pitches, led 1 and 3. Mini waterfalls on pitch 3 were interesting. Was exhausted by the end, but saw a seal!

edwards_nicholas 23/Jul/17 AltLd

It looked fairly dry from the headland and the sun came out so we abbed in. The first two pitches from the ledge (missing out pitch 1) were fine. The 3 pitch was epic! Water seepage didn't help. After using all the extenders up a runner in the corner popped out so I had a nervy 10m traverse without protection. Great route!

with NinaR
Daymo 22/Jul/17 Lead rpt

in the wet again, one day I'll do this route in the dry

Hidden 22/Jul/17 2nd O/S
Leman Lemanski 22/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

A memorable night out...leading the last pitch in the dark was just poetic.

sparkybatteryboy 17/Jul/17 AltLd

amazing line wasn't feeling great at start of the day but this sorted me out.

Rachel Hoyland 16/Jul/17 AltLd

A, R, A, R - the jewel

brian watson 16/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Did with higher start belay, 3 pitches lead 1st and 3rd. Amazing route!

Lizlet13 16/Jul/17 AltLd
with Brian Watson
adi bryant 16/Jul/17 AltLd
mattx1123 15/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Led p2 & p4 traverses. Intimidating location with the wind & spray but great climbing once we finally committed to it. Good holds (& gear) just keep appearing in time to save you from the fear!

Hidden 15/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Tom Livingstone 08/Jul/17 Solo rpt
with Ian Craigie
Mark Reeves 07/Jul/17 -


adamsriches 07/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Partner lead P1, I lead p2&3 as one and then P4. Nice climbing in an excellent location.

Hidden 06/Jul/17 AltLd rpt
Tom Livingstone 06/Jul/17 AltLd rpt
perrys 04/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Tony Hextall
ned_85 02/Jul/17 Lead
with Hetty Key
hetty.key 02/Jul/17 2nd
Matt Amos 01/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Dexter JW 01/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/17 -
Kike Kikon ?/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Been in lots of crags in a number of countries. This route is defo in my top 5. Cris belayed, very windy day (surprise!). Fell on the very last move on the last pitch after a fridge-sized boulder came out and we both went on a wee trip. Stunning route, pretty good rock.

JemG 24/Jun/17 AltLd rpt

retro send

Alpenglow 24/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Done in 3 pitches, led P1. Amazing route, climbing wasn't technically difficult but very exposed. Watched someone pull off a torso sized block and took a 10m lead fall on the last pitch - he was lucky to be alive!

rurp 20/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Better believe it's cold down there before the sun comes round! 20 degrees and a north easterly and I was still blue and shaking till the sun came round! Situational e2 but technically hard severe , extraordinary Five hours of pleasure and adventure.

with bill farmer
tonevert 18/Jun/17 Lead O/S
alexmcmillan 30/May/17 AltLd O/S
with Ceridwyn Stewart, OwainSimpson
OwainSimpson 30/May/17 AltLd
Billy Pedro Needham 29/May/17 2nd O/S
danjouan 29/May/17 Lead O/S

Amazingly we had this to ourselves on a bank holiday! Sacrificed a cam to the Gogarth gods.... somewhere up in the traverse pitch.

Julesthe1st 28/May/17 AltLd O/S

Our first experience of Wen Zawn. An early start meant we were first on the route. Climbed from the bottom which made for a more adventurous experience (the 50m static rope only just making it all the way down). Stunning scenery. The climbing very straightforward throughout and the chalked-up road through the overhangs definitely reduces the difficulty somewhat. Great outing for sure but "one of the best in the world"is pushing it a bit.

with Mike Peak
Becky 28/May/17 AltLd O/S

Led '3rd pitch' as book states. Started at high tide ledge, so did in 3 pitches.

superturbo 28/May/17 AltLd

High tide start, led first and third pitch. Had a seal for company. Cool

Martin Bagshaw 28/May/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/May/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/May/17 AltLd
Hidden 27/May/17 AltLd
williap 27/May/17 AltLd O/S

P2, P4 - good life but not hard. Scott finished in the rain

Dan Hegarty 26/May/17 2nd O/S
with Owen
jordana86 23/May/17 2nd
Stickle Tarn 23/May/17 Lead O/S

Two good tips, i) Take bags around to the viewing point before begining the route. From here it can prove worthwhile to study the route before gearing up, stashing the bags and walking around to the high tide abseil point. ii) Take lots of medium size cams to make a decent job of protecting the route for the second (Black diamond purples, greens and reds) :-)

h3l3n283 20/May/17 AltLd


with Jamie Holding
Hidden 20/May/17 Lead
ushi 19/May/17 AltLd

Awsome day in the sunshine. A nervous start but Tanya (who we found on the climb) encouraged us to give it a go - and it was fab!!

with sophie miller
Tarquin 19/May/17 -
with Louvet
Louvet 19/May/17 2nd
with Tarquin
Rob Rocket 18/May/17 AltLd O/S
with Dave Parton
Dan77 14/May/17 AltLd O/S
Glyn Davidson 14/May/17 AltLd O/S

Kept looking over at the last pitch in terror but it was incredibly easy once I actually got on it. A strong wind added to the ambience of Wen Zawn.

with Dan77
Hidden 13/May/17 AltLd
joe_lancs 12/May/17 AltLd
JamesWilliams 07/May/17 Lead rpt

First sea cliff and multi pitch for rose

brighters 07/May/17 AltLd
codenamel 06/May/17 AltLd O/S

Easy for HVS

Stefan_TR 06/May/17 AltLd O/S

An absolutely fantastic route. Beautiful. We abbed to the wrong place to start with and had to traverse the bottom of the cliff. Our guidebook description was a bit naff tbh. From pitch 2 onwards it's much easier to find the route. I think this would go better as 3 pitches now I know the route.

Hidden 04/May/17 AltLd
Hidden 04/May/17 AltLd
Jamiewalkerjones 04/May/17 2nd O/S

Simply incredible. Worth the hype. Cold, numb hands in the shadows on the first couple of pitches. Sweating my tits off on the final pitch which had come into the sun. Its a must do route.

with Alex
useful 03/May/17 AltLd

My first time leading this. The crux still required some consideration, and forgetting that the previous piece of gear was rotten tat on a rusty peg... Thanks Rusty for the assistance! :)

with Rusty Bale
Hidden 03/May/17 AltLd O/S
milena 29/Apr/17 AltLd
with Poppy
Hidden 29/Apr/17 AltLd
rashwell 28/Apr/17 AltLd
dan-8990 28/Apr/17 -
with RA
Keith Swainson 17/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

2a start 1st and last pitches.

Georgie25 17/Apr/17 AltLd

Led pitch 2 and end of p1 as keith belayed one crack too early so 8 ended up leading into the next crack in Wen and then we had great fun moving hanging belays so I could lead pitch 2 proper. Fantastic fun, definitely worth waiting until the afternoon sun for! Glad I always carry spare belay plate on sea routes ;-)

Hidden 12/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
Jmpollard 12/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Fantastic committing position, shame about the rain on pitch 2!

Hidden 11/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/17 AltLd
Sally Hudson 07/Apr/17 AltLd
mim tiller 07/Apr/17 Solo O/S

Ace final pitch. Quick last route of the day as the sun was setting

islandlynx 05/Apr/17 AltLd
with Horton
Horton 05/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

(from the high-tide ledge). Led P2. Generally easy climbing but the exposure on lead or second plus the position make this an incredible climb. Brilliant adventure!

Hidden 04/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
Bloke on a Rope 04/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Awesome route never too hard just really good!

AliceKerr ?/Apr/17 -
ned_85 25/Mar/17 2nd
with Senna
Senna 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Final pitch

with ned_85
Hidden 25/Mar/17 AltLd
Graeme Hammond 25/Mar/17 Lead rpt
with Becky E
hlegge 25/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

Perfect weather, started in the shade and as we were doing the two traverse pitches the sun came onto us. The route takes such an improbable line for the grade, but always great holds. Simply enjoyable climbing in one of the coolest places in stunning weather. Climbing days dont get much better.

Westy 24/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Tom124
Flavio 12/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
JendeHoxar 12/Feb/17 AltLd rpt
with Flavio
Lazer sk eh 04/Feb/17 AltLd dnf

(2) - lead, (3) -lead, 4 -second

Cam Bevan ??/2017 AltLd
Andrew Nelson ??/2017 -
nuts and bolts ??/2017 -
Ids1165 ??/2017 AltLd
Hidden ??/2017 AltLd
Hidden ??/2017 AltLd
beagly77 ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 Lead O/S
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
donalmurray 10/Dec/16 2nd dnf

Wet holds and slippy feet. Started from high tide start, climbed to the end of the first pitch and then backed off due to a lot of seepage flowing down the next pitch.

with Alfie Maun, Joe Barlow
Alfie Maun 10/Dec/16 Lead dnf

Sopping wet, river running down second pitch

Hoyes 27/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Cool route. Started from obvious ledges 10 m (?) below top of pitch 1. Had Wen Zawn to ourselves with Rach and John on Concrete Chimney. Last climb with Rach.

with Batt
rich432 15/Nov/16 2nd

p.2/p.3 of dream finshed via concrete chimney

with twid turner
Hidden 13/Nov/16 2nd
timozheng ?/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
davkeo 31/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Excellent all round adventure with the sun coming out for the last pitch traverse. As serious for the 2nd as the leader. Went too high on p2 traverse where I misread the sequence and stood up on the hand holds. Pretty tricky down climb back on route with not much for hands. Last pitch was much fun with some cool movement. Awesome last day of a great w/e. Hard to believe its the end of October!

Hidden 27/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
James Worthington 10/Oct/16 AltLd

High tide start at low tide due to shared abseil rope not being long enough. Climbed second and final pitch. Two of us waited on a tiny ledge towards the end of pitch three for the rain to stop so the crowd at the final belay could move on!

with Iain
JendeHoxar 09/Oct/16 Lead rpt
with George
Tom Livingstone 08/Oct/16 2nd rpt
with Lukasz Warzecha
mikehenesy 08/Oct/16 AltLd rpt

What a lovely day for an explore of the holyhead island coast. A reprise and extension of my previous visit. Made the mistake of viewing from the promontry - terrifying! Abbed halfway down the first pitch to a dubious belay on the ledge. Both done it before but not the same pitches so that was dandy. Second pitch was a bit excitingly runout - was thinking of replacing the cord on the peg! Finished just before requiring the assistance of the south stack lighthouse, fantastic!

with Jez Thornley
cmliebmann 05/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
CRead 05/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

p3 definitely lived up to the hype! Getting heckled by Gogarth seals only added to the experience...

tom_drysdale 05/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

First time to Gogarth... what a place! got a nice introduction to the crack beasties on the second pitch and got heckled by seals on the third, definitley lives up to the hype!

with CRead
tommccluskey 22/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Led the penultimate pitch up the flake

with kez1
kez1 22/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Brilliant climbing, especially on the last pitch, tricky route finding, especially due to errors in the wrongfax guide. Belay in the first big crack not the second on the end of the rising diagonal flake pitch. My abiding memory (apart from the amazing climbing) will be the cold, the sun hits the crag late in the day and it was windy as hell. Don't wear shorts like we did, it's not a day at the seaside

with tom McCluskey
kyaizawa 17/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Skipped p1, lead p2 & p4

PaulTanton 17/Sep/16 AltLd rpt
with Ki
john_mx 11/Sep/16 2nd
JendeHoxar 11/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with john_mx
SamT_01 11/Sep/16 2nd
with john_mx
simon snowdon 10/Sep/16 AltLd
Jenny Hall 10/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with Louis
Jacob Eagles 10/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
foostu4 07/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Crag to ourselves! P3 is spectacular!!

Tim Francis 07/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
JoggerJohn99 02/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Steve Brock
crag_hopper_Jay 29/Aug/16 Lead rpt

A quality route, only had 1 other party 1 pitch behind us. Skipped the 1st pitch and lead P2 & P4. Beautiful clear day, the last pitch is wild but never too difficult. Great route to top off a great bank holiday weekend!

Scott Quinn 28/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

p2. climbed as a 3 3rd time at Gogarth & finally climbed some routes! awesome last pitch - would be cool to take the ride down into the cave

tunnah 28/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

p1, p4

with CMoore
CMoore 28/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Everything I dreamed it would be and more. Awesome route across an amazing price of rock.

Amy UT 26/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Soph skillfully negotiated the queues by linking P2 of Wen into P3 of Dream meaning I could lead the P4 traverse. Super windy adventure!

with soph
soph 26/Aug/16 AltLd
with Amy UT
Hidden 25/Aug/16 Lead dnf
gingerking 25/Aug/16 2nd
Matt Magecha 23/Aug/16 AltLd
ClimbingAlex 23/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Not bad for my first HVS!! Matt got a little lost on P1 & 2 heading to the route taking longer than planned! I led P4, absolutely incredible. One tricky move and stayed in balance the whole way.

Hidden 23/Aug/16 Lead
swmackey 16/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with sihills
dkd 15/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Al
Gympaul 15/Aug/16 AltLd
with chris
steve-grigg 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
wnicholson 14/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Steve Grigg
Hidden 12/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
HaleAlex 11/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1 and 2. Going midweek in the howling wind meant no one else was there!

dkd 09/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Mike Tutt
efrance24234 09/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Jacob
Jacob Bloodworth 08/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/16 2nd
DanC1985 06/Aug/16 Lead rpt

Repeated after going off route the weekend before: lead 1st, 3rd and 4th pitches clean. Very windy and exposed on end of third pitch to end of forth pitch: amazing route!

with Sarah
jules1990 06/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Awesome, last pitch felt scary due to the spitting rain and super greasy holds! A spectacular climb though! Started from the high tide ledge, I led P1+3 Chris led P2.

with knighty
Hexman 06/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Definitely memorable, climbed too high and ended up downclimbing the rubble filled chimney. Then the wind picked up to near gale force and the sea spray made the crux holds very greasy. Seconded the crux pitch with most of the gear ripped out by the ropes in the wind.

knighty 06/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

What a climb! Great moves throughout. Shame about the traffic in front, starting in glorious sunshine, finishing in light drizzle. Soapy holds on the last pitch. I won't forget this ascent in a hurry! I'll come back and do it again without the queuing one day. L pitch 2.

Whitmoreaa 06/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Definitely type 2 fun!

nicmac 05/Aug/16 2nd

About 30 years too late!

natetan 04/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
HenryMeier 02/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
DanC1985 31/Jul/16 Lead dnf

Lead first pitch, second pitch lead by Sarah; went off route (couldn't see traverse). Made anchor and I climbed directly up and over (close to last pitch of Zeus)

with Sarah
roryferris 31/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Kev
kev1307 31/Jul/16 AltLd
patb82 31/Jul/16 AltLd
with Nath Mason
Fat Andy Heff 27/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

p.2 & 4

lorens holm 25/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

First mega route with Oscar, it blew our minds. Very scary approach down to that abseil tat. I did the first and last pitches, Oscar the middle pitch. I did the route with my old mate George Traish, out of the Ron James guide, almost 40 years ago, 01 August 1976.

with Oscar
robertmichaellovell 23/Jul/16 AltLd

evening ascent, very very nice

with Michael M
kermit_uk 23/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

From the high tide ledge in 3 pitches. What a position for such an accessible grade. Great outing!

IanBLeeds 23/Jul/16 AltLd
with Will Smith
Col Kingshott 18/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/16 AltLd
radddogg 17/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

6 hours waiting on ledges due to queues. My poor feet. Detracted from the route a little if I'm honest. Started at the high tide ledge, Elliot led remainder of P1 into P2, I led P3, Elliot led P4. P4 was terrifying but what a position - once in a lifetime exposure. If you want to do this then go on a weekday so its not tarnished.

Elliot King LC&CC 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Absolutely brilliant route shame about the hordes of climbers all waiting to do it had 5 teams waiting to do it was an 8 hour expedition because of it, shame as it obviously a fantastic line and exceptional exposure for the grade!

with Rob Powell
Hidden 13/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
DaveThexton 08/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Andypeak 08/Jul/16 AltLd
Tomdewilton 08/Jul/16 2nd O/S

Beyond epic

Tim Bevan 08/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 06/Jul/16 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Pete Randall 25/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Abed in to wrong start point - had to traverse right to join half way up pitch 1. Excellent route, and probably even better when its not raining.

with Geras
Geras 25/Jun/16 AltLd

start from the ledges. led p2 and p4

with New Pete
cdpuk 24/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

From high start, P1, 3

John Bunney 24/Jun/16 Lead rpt
RobScarisbrick 24/Jun/16 AltLd
with cdpuk
Alasdair Yarrington 23/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
jezb1 23/Jun/16 AltLd
Hidden 21/Jun/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 20/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Katie S 20/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

I lead 2nd and 4th pitch

with Ian Hawley
J_Spooner 20/Jun/16 2nd
Chrissy202 18/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Luke
Hidden 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Abi Chard 17/Jun/16 AltLd rpt

With Bi, WICM.

Rachel S 17/Jun/16 AltLd rpt
Charlie Low 17/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Started from the high tide ledge, led P2 and P4. Absolutely lovely route. Exposure on the 4th pitch is amazing and the climbing on the 2nd and 3rd is interesting too. Definitely lives up to the hype!

Hidden 15/Jun/16 AltLd rpt
climbingpixie 15/Jun/16 AltLd rpt
with Fatima
Kris2fa 12/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3. Wonderful route!

with Adam24B
Adam24B 12/Jun/16 AltLd rpt
with Kris2fa
Peter Ballantine 07/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Andrew Duncan 06/Jun/16 AltLd
CoraS 06/Jun/16 2nd O/S

My first multipitch. Yaaaaay!!

joe hallam 06/Jun/16 AltLd
MischaHY 06/Jun/16 Lead rpt

Cora's first multipitch. She cruised it.

with CoraS
adi bryant 04/Jun/16 AltLd rpt

It's alright if ye like that kind of thing..

JamesWilliams 04/Jun/16 Lead rpt

. Lovely day for it nice and warm and lovely climbing. that last pitch is sooo good

Wayne S 04/Jun/16 AltLd
beckyjg 04/Jun/16 2nd
Matt Poole 04/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Dale Berry 04/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Done in 3 pitches from the high tide ledge. Led 1st and 3rd pitch. Easy moves in an awesome situation. Top route.

with Wayne S
ian Wignall 04/Jun/16 AltLd

Led p1, p3 Adi p2, p4. Incredible climb. Definitely doing it again.

Hidden 03/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/16 AltLd
Jonathan Richardson ?/Jun/16 Lead O/S
erkershaw ?/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/May/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/May/16 AltLd
Richard Byrom 30/May/16 2nd O/S

Superb climb with plenty of exposure abseiled in at low tide so we could complete all 4 pitches. P1 slightly wet slab and some tricky moves towards the upper section. P2 and 3 some easy traversing following the line of a flake. P4 is a cool traverse over the sea cave, I started to get quite pumped and tired about half way through but there are opportunities to rest. Did the entire climb without a fall or resting on gear, chuffed to on site it and hope do go back and lead some of the routes on this wall

with Simon Middleton
Stroppy 29/May/16 AltLd O/S

One of the best routes I have had the pleasure of climbing. In the 'typical' ascent style (i.e. part of the queue on a sunny bank holiday weekend) but did not detract. Pretty soft at the grade, loads of gear, solid hold and totally glorious!

Sam Husband 29/May/16 AltLd O/S

A good game of rock papers scissors to win for the lead of p4, lived up to its awesome reputation. Not bad for HVS of you have a decent rack, must have placed 15 bits of gear in P4.

with Stroppy
tyho 29/May/16 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 and P4.

with Josephine Hicks
Nafclimbsrocks 29/May/16 AltLd O/S

Everything I wanted it to be! A grand day out. Be warned though, you may have to queue for a few hours like we did! I lead pitch 2 and 4 (the overhanging roofs!)

with Rob LCCC
robhunt 29/May/16 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 & 3.

with Nathan Rostron
Hidden 29/May/16 AltLd rpt
David Staples 29/May/16 AltLd rpt

Lead P2 & P4 - Best rock climb ever!

richardbaxter 29/May/16 AltLd O/S

Excellent route. Well worth the drive to do just the one climb before driving back. Very hot still day and not too many climbers on.

with Andrew Green
Hidden 28/May/16 AltLd
K Farrell 28/May/16 AltLd O/S

Abseiled into the what we thought was the start of the second pitch. We think we were about 6-8m too high up. Ended up doing a couple of poorly protected, loose, traverse pitches and then downclimbed a chimney to get back on route. The final pitch was superb! Will have to come back for round 2 and do it properly!

Dave Warburton 28/May/16 AltLd

Started too high, oddly the description vaguely matched what we encountered though miles harder than the grade. Massive down climb to concrete chimney belay was fun for both. Appears we did a pitch and an half of an E2 5b. No one else on Wen Slab in the evening glow. Oddly enjoyable in it's own way. Will probably do Concrete Dream if I fancy it again.

Hidden 27/May/16 AltLd rpt
catblack 27/May/16 Lead O/S

Spectacular climb. that final pitch is just incredible, put a big smile on my face!

with Dad
bryan p 23/May/16 -
with Kay Dee, James
K Mckay 22/May/16 AltLd O/S

Utterly fantastic from start to finish. Blue skies, awesome location and never ever desperate. Calum Muskett helped direct us to the start of the route! Began from the high tide ledge. Joined my lead on P1 and P2 together and led P3.

Hidden 22/May/16 AltLd O/S
Jack Manfredi 22/May/16 AltLd
with Dad
Hidden 18/May/16 AltLd rpt
Adele Long 18/May/16 AltLd
with Royst
Tim_C7 15/May/16 Lead O/S

Epic situation!

Ewan Russell 14/May/16 AltLd rpt
bryce.dorin 14/May/16 AltLd O/S

Did high tide start, did pitches 1,3

with dunnyg
Hidden 14/May/16 AltLd O/S
Will Hunt 14/May/16 AltLd O/S

Led the last two pitches. A Dream come true. Spectacular.

Hidden 13/May/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/May/16 2nd dnf
David Staples 12/May/16 Lead dnf

Bailed after pitch 2 as my mates head went to bits and he was cold. Will be back.

ianstevens 05/May/16 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 and P3 from the high-tide ledge. Another off the long term ticklist! Awesome positions and easy moves - VS climbing in E grade terrain.

with joedean
joedean 05/May/16 AltLd
Hidden 30/Apr/16 -
Hidden 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
SJPowderham1 29/Apr/16 AltLd

Stunning evening with the entire area to ourselves. Route every bit as good as the hype suggests. P1 from the high tide ledge not so brilliant

Hidden 22/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
sambeaumont 20/Apr/16 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr/16 2nd
jezb1 18/Apr/16 Lead rpt

One of my best days at work!

Mike Hewitt 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Did the final pitch, after getting veeeery pumped seconding Quartz Icicle! Right up there with the best places I've climbed at.

ned_85 16/Apr/16 AltLd
with Scott Marc Berry
giuly 16/Apr/16 2nd
with Darren
Clama 16/Apr/16 2nd
with Dougie
shed_hed 16/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Led all pitches from the low tide start (climbed an easy but bold slab next to the first pitch as it was wet).

with giuly
Dazluke2000 13/Apr/16 Lead

Amazing route. Started from high tide ledge. Drenched on the final pitch.

Tutu ?/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

led pp.2-4, traverse pitch 4 is the best!

with Ben S
ferdia 31/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Andy Moles 31/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
with ferdia
JendeHoxar 25/Mar/16 Lead

Started at the high tide ledge - led all 3 pitches. Had been really looking forward to this and it didn't disappoint. Amazed to have the whole zawn to ourselves on a sunny (though v cold) bank holiday.

alanblyth 25/Mar/16 2nd O/S
JackM92 22/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Climbed the first pitch of Wen, which was by far the best actual climbing on the route. Situations incredible, but quality of climbing and moves less so.

with Tim Howell, shamonster
Hidden 19/Mar/16 2nd rpt
martin c 17/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Dave Thomas
dobby 200 16/Mar/16 2nd rpt

Still an amazing route

with Ste Carey, joedoherty
David Kay 13/Mar/16 AltLd rpt
with Sammi Rogers
Hidden 13/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
harry_lewis 12/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Great route, final pitch looks ludicrous until you're on it

pete1993 12/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

finally did this after a couple of abortive attempts, and wow absolutely fantastic, went from the high tide start, will have to do again when the rock on the final pitch isn't gopping wet so i can really enjoy the position!

amccann 12/Mar/16 AltLd rpt

From high tide ledges, led the flake pitch this time. Not as wet as last time, but still pretty damp!

with dom94
jedster1111 12/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Little bit scary

dom94 12/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

From high tide ledge lead p1/p2 and p4. The final pitch was absolutely gobbing wet, but that just added to the fun!

with amccann
spadge 04/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/16 -
Malcolm Bass ?/Mar/16 AltLd
with geezer
Stanners 16/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

From the oggin. P2 and 4. Finally completed..but not the sun kissed warm slab I always imagined my first ascent to be…but rain, snow and wind never hurt anyone! Epic. Camped out in Llanerbis afterwards and did some more appropriate winter climbing ..

with Giles
Hidden ??/2016 -
charlietorrance ??/2016 2nd O/S

Climbing with Bunney! Amazing

mountain musher ??/2016 -
John Bunney ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 Lead O/S
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Ralfy ??/2016 AltLd O/S
with james duffie
Hidden ??/2016 2nd
iainpowell ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
suds_01 02/Nov/15 AltLd
dobby 200 02/Nov/15 AltLd O/S

I led p2 and 4. Amazing route!

with suds_01
Ed Booth 01/Nov/15 Lead rpt

Beautiful day for November. Climbed whole thing in a t-shirt and had sun setting for last pitch.

with Anna Pugh
Will Mortimer 16/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

What an adventure! Lead P2, Royd lead P1 & P3, we topped out in the dark. Best route in Britain?

with Droyd
Droyd 16/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Led 2 and 4, skipped 1. Legit.

badgerjockey 11/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Perfect conditions for what is pretty much the most memorable climb of my life! Led P2 & P4. Cruxes for me were at beginning of P3 and nearing the exit groove of the miraculous P4. Surprisingly varied climbing and sustained 4c throughout. Eye popping place, it's a struggle to take in the full scale of the zawn... Even had a curious seal at the 1st stance.

with Pete
Michael Morrell 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Lead every pitch except the last, partner had done it before, the 5A pitch is remarkable.

buxtoncoffeelover 01/Oct/15 AltLd

Glorious sunshine, flat sea, no wind, only seals for company. Did all 4 pitches - Marcin lead 1,2 & 4; I lead 3rd. Excellent route - to be repeated.

MarcinGobczynski ?/Oct/15 Lead O/S
MD 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Led p1 from high tide ledge, p2 and p4. I've been wanting to do this climb for years, it was every bit as good as I hoped it would be.

david harvey 19/Sep/15 2nd O/S
martinbettridge06 19/Sep/15 Lead
Happy Wanderer 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Started from high water shelf on p1. Fab route. Led p3. One to do again!

with MD
papashango 16/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with PMW
spidermonkey09 15/Sep/15 AltLd rpt

Led the flake pitch again, slightly frustrating experience stuck behind a few teams but still fun.

Hidden 15/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Pete_Frost 11/Sep/15 2nd rpt

Fun day out following a candidate MIA. A real eye-opener to see the final pitch protected so well.

with Jeannie Sherwood
Hidden 11/Sep/15 2nd O/S
John Kettle 08/Sep/15 Lead


kirsten 08/Sep/15 2nd

Every bit as good as promised and more, especially as lead decided on a P1/P2 traverse (from high tide start) through ground that was more like 5b rather than the advertised 4c! Think we started across too high. Millpond turquoise sea and seals swimming below - just about perfect.

with John Kettle
leethebee 06/Sep/15 AltLd β

Absolutely amazing climbing. Lead second pitch. Things cant get much better than this. Exposed and atmospheric. Really enjoyed the route.

with Bob Tyn Y Coed
Paul Collins 06/Sep/15 AltLd

A nice wee adventure

with Neil Byrne
Hidden 05/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/15 AltLd rpt
will_lake 03/Sep/15 AltLd
Richardlake 03/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Started from the high tide ledge. Me pitch one and three, Will pitch two. First pitch is a little tricky for 4c and isnt that well protected, also has a large run-out into the wen crack belay but the climbing is ok on this part. The last two pitches are brilliant - well protected, straightforward climbing. The route finding on the final pitch is less a 'work of art' than it may have used to be, the chalk gave it all away on every hold! I would say it is definitely HVS as it is very committing ab-ing after looking at the route from the other side!

Tom.Priestley 02/Sep/15 AltLd dnf

Was halfway to concrete chimney on pitch 3 and a heavy shower came in and drenched everything. Had to reverse lead back to the belay in the soaking wet then ab off some tat to the lower ledges to go across and climb up our ab in rope. Bit of a epic but ended up memorable.

Hidden 01/Sep/15 AltLd
lanky 01/Sep/15 AltLd
with Tom
Ows ?/Sep/15 2nd
RonnydeWeerd ?/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Start from high tide ledge

with Irene Wunnink
alexjz 31/Aug/15 AltLd rpt

Lead last pitch, linked in from concrete chimney. Awesome

with George Ullrich
john lynch 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S

wanted to do this for ages, brilliant! great effort from Beth.

with Bethan D
wrapped in bacon 30/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 27/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/15 AltLd
john max 16/Aug/15 AltLd
with Ron Buckley, Jen Maxfield
Compo 16/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

I led pitches 1,2 & 4, linking 1 & 2 together.

with Will
Hidden 16/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Helen Boothman 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Martin A
martinlevya82 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S


Stopsy 12/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Mega! Pitches 2 & 4, felt some of the hardest moves deserve 5a. Top out to an amazing sunset!

BigTone 07/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
J.A.Thomson 07/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Douglas 03/Aug/15 Lead rpt
noemie5438 03/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Liam
Federico Sher 03/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Douglas
Hidden 01/Aug/15 -
Hidden 01/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
jsmcfarland 31/Jul/15 AltLd

Did a high-tide variation somehow. I unintentionally did most of the 2nd pitch of Zeus (E2 5b) until it joined into Dream. Was thinking that the climbing was f*cking hard and really unprotected (my 3 smallest wires in 10m of climbing!) until I joined onto Dream and it all eased off. Will led the amazing rising Flakes pitch in really good style and didn't bother putting in much gear! The traverse pitch is mind-blowing and as cliché as it sounds, must be the best HVS in the world! lots of extenders and long slings help with rope drag, it was nice to climb this while operating a few grades harder as I could really relax and enjoy the atmosphere. *****

with Will
Hidden 27/Jul/15 AltLd rpt
Hidden 27/Jul/15 AltLd β
gingerbex 25/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Amazing. Most satisfying, mentally, climb of the year. Slow and rude teams ahead of us and wind chill cant dampen how much I enjoyed, esp final pitch

alastairbegley 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Brilliant climb. Climbed from high tide ledge as four pitches. Technically I think P3 was the crux. The traverse pitch was outstanding, there is lots of gear if you look for it so there is no need to worry about a massive swing into free space for the second if the leader places appropriate gear. http://mp-m.uk/1uqSt

jason smeeth 24/Jul/15 AltLd
with hotfeet
hotfeet 24/Jul/15 AltLd

A really enjoyable climb. I did pitches 1, 3 & 4.

davewsargent 12/Jul/15 AltLd

Lead p1 &3

pie_eater_pete 12/Jul/15 AltLd
NickyC 11/Jul/15 AltLd
with Zain Karim
GStone 11/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

I led P2 & 4 Awesome!

with JamesR
Dawn_K_B 08/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Did it in the sun with no one else around with a high and choppy tide, all added to the great atmosphere! Very easy climbing for most of it with good but occasionally spaced gear. Great route but maybe too much hype about it.

with mrteale
mrteale 08/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2 +4

Little AndyH 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Jamie Skelton 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
08nbrierley 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch

joe.91 03/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Awesome! Worth every bit of the hype! Pitches 1 and 3, 4th was awesome!

williemiller 03/Jul/15 AltLd
jmills94 ?/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

great to do this mega classic again and lead a different pitch. Best climbing is on the first pitch from the ledge into the wen belay but best situation is of course the final pitch. VS climbing in HVS positions.

with pip
steveprice.exmouth 27/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Chris Ebbutt 27/Jun/15 Lead
petecallaghan 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
chris fox 26/Jun/15 AltLd

started from sea level to the amusement of 3 seals ! blustery and low cloud made it more atmospheric. Led pitches 1 and 3 and topped out in glorious sunshine. then off to search for a decent pub (are there any) in Holyhead for a deserving beer.

Sam4242 26/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

1 and 2

jonnyboy 25/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with JR
MarkRoe 22/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

A classic that actually lives up to it's hype. The weather was forecast to be poorer than it was, so instead of using the extra clothes that we brought, we ended up just getting slightly dehydrated and sunburnt. I lost the rock-paper-scissors game to lead the fourth pitch, so ended up leading 1 and 3. We joined 'Wen' slightly above where we were meant to after the second pitch, and so put a high traverse in to join pitch three halfway up it's main flake rather than down climb or reverse. A cracking adventure!

with BRoe
Hidden 22/Jun/15 -
BRoe 22/Jun/15 Lead O/S

p2 and 4, good way to finish my time in Wales.

with MarkRoe
Hidden 19/Jun/15 Lead O/S
M_Robinson 13/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Adam24B
Adam24B 13/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
matt1024 13/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led p2 and p4 as above. Skipped p1.

Hidden 13/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jun/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Jun/15 AltLd dnf
Ciderslider 08/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Fantastic !!! I lead from low tide ledge to belay in Wen. Charley lead the diagonal to the concrete chimney, then I lead the final pitch

with charley
charley 08/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Great day out on Wen :D After a couple of trips down to Swanage, actually found Wen Slab quite friendly. We did it in 3 pitches starting from the lower belay. I led pitch 2 and ended up traversing too high and had to down-climb the concrete chimney - all good fun though... P3 was brilliant fun, smiled all the way. P1 actually felt like the crux to me but that might be because we were freezing....

Hidden 05/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/15 AltLd
Freshprintce ?/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden 30/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/15 Lead O/S
kelly_426 30/May/15 AltLd
with Tom Nichols, Sasha Doyle
Pete Scott 26/May/15 AltLd O/S

High tide ledge start, climbed p1/2+4. Amazing. Felt confident running out on positive holds. Plenty of hanging belay practice.

Pete Scott 26/May/15 AltLd O/S

Amazing. Great weather. My kind of holds.High tide start. Led p1/2 + p4

the power 21/May/15 AltLd O/S

Haha what rob said

dr_botnik 21/May/15 AltLd O/S

Unbelievably good. I almost gave up on it at the hanging belay as the winds were thrashing all the gear about on my harness and, tbh, the climbing had been crap up until that point, however the last two pitches really made up for it. Technically not that hard, but very intimidating, I was off my nut on adrenaline from the minute we abbed down.

casey johns 16/May/15 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 2&4. great route

with Andrew willie wilson
Steve Wakeford 12/May/15 2nd
with Dan Commander
Beshoveled 04/May/15 Lead O/S

Big hold/lump of rock fell off for my second on the final pitch near the start (a hanging flake) could have added a new crux so be aware

joermann 01/May/15 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/15 2nd
Willythegreat ?/May/15 AltLd

Still can't get enough of the route

smokeyj ?/May/15 AltLd O/S
with pete scott
ReubenS1990 ?/May/15 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2 and got into a ropey tangle on the final pitch. Still an epic morning with a seal in the cve and the weather closing in.

Hidden 26/Apr/15 AltLd
mrginna 26/Apr/15 AltLd

Pitches 2 and 4. Great route. Was a little high by end 2nd pitch but soon back on track

with johnny
treesrockice 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S

1st and 3rd. So please to of finally got this done! Amazing even if we did spend a while waiting at some belays. Rock solid at the grade and felt wild a true adventure route! Thanks for the Belay Louis!

with German loui
Eagertom 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Deserves its rank. Took us ages to find it, but in the end we got there and had an awesome four hours climbing in the evening sun, topping out at 8:15 to the sunset over the horizon. Brilliant day.

with Emily Hunt
j.buckley87 10/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Cold and windy but great fun

Chris Manasseh 09/Apr/15 AltLd

Led 1 (from high tide ledge) and 3

james.slater 05/Apr/15 AltLd O/S


emilyjhunt ?/Apr/15 2nd
with Thomas Eldridge
Private Flounder ?/Apr/15 AltLd
with chris manasseh
pearson9596 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Forgot my right rock shoe! Better than forgetting the left though....

with ian d f
ian d f 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & 4. Mike only had one climbing shoe. Fun route.

kingholmesy ??/2015 AltLd O/S
with Colin
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 2nd
kempy7 ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 Lead
southern_smit ??/2015 AltLd
Hidden ??/2015 -
Scooter Young ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2015 -
quarrtman1 14/Nov/14 2nd

Awesome day with Tom and Andy

with Tom and Andy
Teappleby 10/Nov/14 AltLd

Got back from a weekend in lakes/Yorkshire to sheff on sun night, and then Ben phoned and said gogarth. . . on the road an hour later, south stack layby 1:30am, quick bivi, route in the morning, finish 10 mins before the rain arrives and then drive back to Sheff for a quick foundry ses in the evening! Smashed it! (route was quite wet though, only pitch 3 was really dry, others all seeping a lot). Still a great route though!

with amccann
amccann 10/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

Led from high tide ledges to hanging belay, and last pitch. Quite a bit of water dripping down from the overhangs on the last pitch, but apart from that it was mostly dry with the occasional wet patch.

Hidden 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
OliverRoss 11/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Lead High tideP1, & final pitch. Last piece of gear popped when pulling ropes through so Chris was quite run out.

with Chris Madar
chrismadar 11/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Lead the second pitch, beautiful climb. Sun was out and a few seals. Little bit wet but nothing to bad!

Daymo 09/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing route. Seepage at the chimney and at the beginning of the final pitch. Note to self; wear a waterproof next time.

deejmonkey 09/Oct/14 AltLd

Awesome route! The exposure is spectacular and the climbing is a nice mix of styles. There was quite a lot of water seeping through the rock on pitch 3 which made for some delicate, slippy and very bold climbing - makes me laugh just thinking about it.

with Daymo
Jaysquared69 04/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Very wet and scary

with Olly P
Hidden 04/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
galpinos 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Took too high a line on P2 and set off wildly wrong on P3 but a helpful pointer from a team on Wen got us back on track. Awesome.

with Sam
Hidden 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
budchawla 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

fantastic route!

with JRennie
JRennie 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing route. 3rd pitch, flake to lean back around, must remember to protect second next time!

EdGeall 22/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/14 2nd O/S
MichaelGallimore 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Managed to get to the p1 starting ledge with 50m halves plus rope stretch. Was dreading the route finding, but you can walk round the promontory for a good look at the route before you ab in. Moved well, 4hrs. Brilliantly exposed. Crux pitch 2 IMO.

rob.grafton 20/Sep/14 AltLd
with andy bunnage
Rachel S 18/Sep/14 AltLd rpt

Paul took the dreaded whipper on the traverse when a massive jug came off in his hand. Thankfully no prussicking required.

with The Fox
Wayne S 18/Sep/14 2nd
Adam Hill 13/Sep/14 -


Hidden 10/Sep/14 Lead β
Hidden 09/Sep/14 AltLd
Julie Carroll 08/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Steve Gorton
steve_hoey 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing route, huge exposure. Could have done with more nuts and long extenders on the massive 46m last pitch! Huge rope drag made the last bit pretty tiring.

with Matt Guy
dhdaveuk 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Leo
RyanOsborne 06/Sep/14 AltLd

Led pitches 1 and 3 of the high tide version. Excellent route, with engaging but not difficult climbing, in a great position.

w-watson 06/Sep/14 AltLd
Matt77 06/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Wanted to do this for so long. Well worth the wait; an unbelievable route.

Dave Almond 06/Sep/14 AltLd rpt
Nicole Almond 06/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/14 2nd
joeflan 04/Sep/14 AltLd rpt

lead opposite pitches to last time

Hidden 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S
JamesWilliams 01/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing route! the last pitch lives up to all the hype and really gets you pretty excited for only HVS

adamre12 01/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

I led P1 + P3. This route is fantastic. Some interesting moves on the last pitch, falling was not an option!

Mike Hood 31/Aug/14 AltLd
Alex Munnery 31/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led the first and third pitches

staceyjg 30/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

This has been on my wish list for over 6 years, finally did it on our first wedding anniversary, fabulous way to spend the day. Ab'd into pitch 2, I led p2 & p4, Chris led p3. Hope to do it again as I felt quite scared from the end of p3...... 2 days on and my calves are still killing me! :-)

helin 28/Aug/14 AltLd
with Keith Bell
Hidden 26/Aug/14 AltLd
AndrewP 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Had the whole zawn to ourselves on August B/H weekend (except for the seals and kayakers)! Amazing route that definitely lives up to the hype. Did it from the Wen ledges. Felix lead P1 and 3, I lead P2 and 4.

FelixPeterken 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Beautiful Climb, well worth all the nerves before hand! Had a little bit of struggle deciding where to put the belay at the end of the first pitch, belayed on the big ledge over to the right. Constructed my first ever hanging belay in the concrete chimney, which was quite scary due to the crumbly nature of the "concrete". Amazing last pitch, cant think of a better climb. Not too bad for my third HVS lead!

with AndrewP
Hidden 23/Aug/14 AltLd
Vincej 23/Aug/14 2nd
with Nevil
markfromstoke 22/Aug/14 AltLd
with Pete H
Louis Hume 18/Aug/14 Lead

Still grinning.

Hidden 18/Aug/14 2nd
Ash Sayers 17/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
andycash 17/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Josiemc ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

What an awesome amazing superber climb

robpartridge ?/Aug/14 AltLd
with Peter Aberneathy
Laura Hamlet ?/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
dannyboy83 30/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
lena.drapella 30/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Oli, dannyboy83, RKirke
RKirke 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Tim Hamlet 29/Jul/14 Lead

Absolutely fantastic. Seals watching us on the first few pitches and sunset on the walk out. Mind blown!

alexm198 28/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route. Reputation well deserved!

Matt Harle 28/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

from ledges. 1st and final pitches.

Matt Smith 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Doesn't disappoint. Started at the high tide approach after the rather scary scramble and abseil. Lead all pitches. Managed to get plenty of gear in the last pitch.

Hidden 25/Jul/14 2nd O/S
JamesLloyd 25/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
JenRoberts 18/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Utterly fantastic last pitch.

with Ollie
fishinwater 15/Jul/14 2nd
with Barry
ebf 09/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

What can I say? It's lovely, epic and has some beautiful positions. However (sorry), P4 is over-egged - I fail to see how either leader or second could "fall into space" unless the leader either didn't bother with pro, or was a total div in placement. It's a nice pitch though in a glorious position! Finally finished this route after backing off twice due to rain (once end of P2, once end of P3!) Anyway, it was a lovely birthday treat to lead P1 (from the very bottom) and P3 in a very long day from and to Leeds just to do this! Paul led P2 and P4. Will thirded and took photos. :)

pastep 09/Jul/14 AltLd
with ebf
JessWilliams 08/Jul/14 2nd
with Dad
Hidden 07/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
poeter210 07/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with druss
George_Surf 01/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Started from the ledges. Mike led the rest of p1 but belayed in the wrong corner. I ahd to climb up and traverse over to the abseil rope to abseil back to the proper stance, sketchy. P2 nice traverse a bit spicy but all there. Mike led the falke crack, sustained and took hexes/cams. I led p4 across the zawn, good holds and good gear, needs lots of 60cm extenders. Excellent, sunny, hot and calm.

with Mike Roberts
Hardcore Pat 30/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

P1 & 3. Loads of fun.

with Dr Julie
Shane Willis 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S
augustus trout 30/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
spragglerocks 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P4. Awesome.

with Matt
Pippa 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Nightmare, started on last pitch in the dark, stuck behind a very slow party of three. Finished at midnight. At least the gear is good and you can feel for holds, and the lighthouse swings around every 30 seconds! Next time always carry the headtorch in your pack even if you start out with plenty of light.

mountain_jay 29/Jun/14 AltLd

Ummm.... Dud someone say epuc?! started on last pitch in the dark, stuck behind a very slow party of three. Finished at midnight. At least the gear is good and you can feel for holds, and the lighthouse swings around every 30 seconds! Next time always carry the headtorch in your pack even if you start out with plenty of light

with Pippa
MaccMark 29/Jun/14 AltLd

Led P3+4, started from corner at top of P1. Lovely!

Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd
Spence22 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Started in sunshine at 7:30 pm and topped out in the dark. Commit to the mission!!!

Hidden 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Mattlamb90 21/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

Perfect dry conditions

with luke384
luke384 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
chris smith 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S


with Malcolm watson
chris smith 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Malcolm watson
Jack93 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Started at the high tide ledge, lead pitches 2 and 4. Not a bad pitch on the route! The flake of the thrid is fantastic and the last one has such easy juggy climbing in a superb position; we had an audience of seals bobbing around below us!

spidermonkey09 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

P1 and P3. Third pitch is as good as the last I thought. Great route across seemingly impossible terrain from the promontory.

with Jack93
luke glaister 18/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

What an adventure. Took a wile to find it and when we did it was very blank looking. With the sea mist rolling in adding to the feel... but we committed to the abseil and was rewarded with the best route to date. V's climbing with hvs feel but I never felt exposed. The rock makes your hands sweat which is a worry on a hot day. To sum up. The hardest part is committing to ab in. 3***s brilliant.

Willythegreat 18/Jun/14 AltLd

Hardest part is finding the crag in the mist

1202alarm 16/Jun/14 AltLd

much faffing with the ropes but no dramas, a good lead from Idoia.

with Idoia
Hidden 15/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
andyjirvin 11/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Kept my expectations low due to several climbers saying it was over-hyped... but on walking down to the ledge opposite the slab and seeing the route for the first time, I was absolutely blown away! Awesome venue, amazing rock and exposure. The exposure continues on the scramble down the abseil and the abseil itself. Continual feeling of 'oh my go are we really doing this?'. Great positions on the rock. Only half the 1st pitch due to tide. 2nd pitch quite fun but easy, some delicate moves. 3rd pitch, which I led, was excellent, a juggy romp with cool moves and lots of free flowing climbing. Pitch 4 - just wow! Very improbably line but the holds just keep coming. Simply a case of routefinding to get yourself across. Probably has the best moves on the whole route. Excellent. Took a very long time - 6 hours ish??

Luxulyan 10/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Tom Murrell
DaveThexton 08/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Guy Ruyssevelt, John Crewe
rbharries 05/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

wow. HVS is totally fair, deffo has its moments!

with Danger olly
mes32 26/May/14 AltLd O/S

Missed out P1. Led P2 and final pitch, which was a waterfall and got soaked! Big holds though so easy. Amazing!

with Wilki
Mattlamb90 25/May/14 AltLd O/S

All but top pitch as it was a wasserfall

with spidey
andy_e 21/May/14 AltLd dog

Lead second half of pitch 1, first half of pitch three, and split pitch 4 in two. First three pitchs provide excellent climbing that, barring a few moves, give easy climbing for the grade. Despite great sunny weather, the last pitch was a water fall. A combination of aiding and pulling on gear eventually saw us deposited at the end of the last pitch. I should go back and repeat it when it is dry, or I am stronger. Epic day!

with Ben Phillips
ben.phillips 21/May/14 AltLd
with andy_e
Ianwesterby 17/May/14 2nd dnf

Did not complete as friends gear all popped on the last pitch due to high winds. Will go back and get the lead

MischaHY 17/May/14 Lead O/S

Lead each pitch with the other two seconding on separate ropes. Incredible exposure and climbing. Epic rescue of a friend from the last belay, due to extremely high wind whipping out the gear his leader had placed. Scary times.

with Hague, Henry
Leo Woodhead 17/May/14 Lead β
with Ian W
will moy 02/May/14 AltLd O/S
with tom thorne
Hidden 02/May/14 AltLd O/S
littleduck ?/May/14 2nd
with Tony Madden
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 14/Apr/14 Lead

Good effort Harry, age 14 yrs & 1 week

with Harry Turnbull
Hidden 11/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/14 Lead O/S
carl_123 09/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Jelly ?/Apr/14 2nd O/S

started on pitch 2 as 1st pitch too damp. Mark traversed to 1st belay point too high - apparently on an E2. Shit myself of little holds with numb cold fingers! Last pitch is such good fun. Super exposed but easy jug traversing!

Hidden 30/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Moritz L 29/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Finally! Led P1 & P3. P4 felt pretty scary at times with gear few metres away.

David Kay 29/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
JJL 21/Mar/14 Lead

Wet patch on last pitch. A seal, a kayak, two jetskis, two RIBs and another climbing pair checked our progress. No worries. The last time I climbed it the parking was a disused quarry with rusting cars. It's now a visitor centre, cafe and most of Holyhead turns out, presumably for want of anything better to do.

with Jack
Mackinclimb 18/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
arose 18/Mar/14 AltLd

Bit of rain and a huge sea below made it a wee bit more intimidating!

Alex Winter 16/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Lots of wind and sea mist about, but looked like it might have been brightening up as we abbed in. It didn't, and George ended up leading the third pitch in horizontal drizzle. Last pitch absolutely sopping. Still awesome though. Must never attempt to take a leak from a hanging belay in the wind again.

with George
georgeevans88 16/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Quite wet. Met office forecast for sun was not accurate. As a result we moved quite slowly on it checking foot placemets carefully. Loads of exposure. Deserves HVS due to the situation and exposure. Didn't think the fall potential was as bad as expected. Only 1 or 2 moves on the final pitch where it would have been bad to fall.

BenRyle 11/Mar/14 AltLd rpt

Did other pitches this time, bit wet in the morn, still frickin ace

with Dan724
Dan724 11/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2 and 4. Final pitch was soaking wet, I had to put my hood up;it was like being in a waterfall. The rock was so wet and slimy that it was like standing on black jellyfish splattered onto the rock.

with BenRyle
JHC 01/Mar/14 AltLd
Sam Watson 01/Mar/14 AltLd O/S


Allanfairfechan ??/2014 Lead
with Paul Jones, Simon Leigh Smith, Dave Woodcock
mileshill540 ??/2014 AltLd
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
jcw ??/2014 -
James Thacker ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
jon_gill1 13/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Chris p1 and p3 and i did p2 and p4. Words don't convey how awesome this route is! E X P O S U R E!!!

with chris Lyness
Dan Vaj 11/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with James McHaffie
Nigel Bond 05/Oct/13 AltLd
with Joe Boyd
tim exley 29/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with BenRyle
BenRyle 29/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Lived up to the hype, possibly the best route I've ever done. Last pitch was superb!!

Maia 28/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

led 2nd pitch

Jim Slater 28/Sep/13 AltLd rpt
with Maia
Hidden 28/Sep/13 AltLd β
Anna Riley 20/Sep/13 AltLd
markpollak 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with dave mowle
Jules Lane 10/Sep/13 AltLd β

Started with the traverse from the notch below the normal abseil point, so missing true P1 due to tide. Led P1 and 3. Everything they say is true. Amazing. Beautiful. Last pitch VERY scary but not that hard (4b with 1 or maybe 2 moves of 4c). A full on 2 hours. I could go on. If you can happily lead 4c, just do it.

with Mynydd Richard W
ChrisBrooke 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

High start rather than sea-level. I did the middle 'up' pitch while Nadir took the two sideways ones. Mostly walking :)

davidalcock 01/Sep/13 2nd

P2 & 3, then up 3rd pitch of Rubble to escape the wind. Amazing crag. Will take a windproof next time, and long trousers!

with Blake
Hidden 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/13 AltLd
erica 22/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led top of 1st pitch, 3rd pitch. Fantastic route, beautiful day and the place to ourselves!

John Brayshaw 22/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Pitches 2 & 4 - a tremendous outing

with erica
thomaspomfrett 18/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Probably the best route I've ever done. Lead p4

with Eddy P, patrick_b
GraMc 18/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

best hvs amazeballs

with rob, pete abernethy
Julian Prieto 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Started halfway up P1. Led P1, 3.

with cliffy
cliffy 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Big Lee 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Route lived up to expectation. Led pitches 2 and 4. Anna's first proper HVS alt lead - get in there!

with annak
annak 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Amazing. I'm still grinning.

with Big Lee
Sardien 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Rich let me do P2 and 4. P4 is overwhelming. Superb!

with nawface
a13x 08/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with John Phethean, pudding
Tony Ryland 03/Aug/13 AltLd

Led 1st and 3rd A bit windy, Steve had to reset runners on last pitch which had blown off

with Steve Barby
Hidden 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 03/Aug/13 AltLd rpt
Andrew1 02/Aug/13 2nd
with Hulda
Hulda 02/Aug/13 Lead
with Andrew1
dan_o_b ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
pete87abs ?/Aug/13 AltLd rpt
with Graham, rob
wilkie14c 21/Jul/13 AltLd
Double Knee Bar 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lead p2+4. Finally done it! Amazing.

Hidden 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/13 AltLd
jcasey2436 18/Jul/13 2nd

Awesome and airy!

with Joe birchall
cbeard 17/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

As good as the hype which surrounds it! Abseiled in to base of P1 with a 60m rope.

tmawer 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Maz
MazElden 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with tmawer
Hidden 06/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/13 2nd O/S
AidanMorris ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
dswansonlow 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Cool route but quite greasy and then it rained quite heavily for the final pitch, which made it more interesting!

Richard P Coates 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Lead p3, seconded p2 and p4

useful 30/Jun/13 2nd

Climbed in the middle of the three. Brilliant climbing all along, such variation. John and Steve led, I was happy to rest my sore left shoulder and still have some fun.

with John M, Steve E
elCapitano 30/Jun/13 AltLd
shed_hed 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Cool route. Looks quite tricky viewed from afar but all becomes obvious when on it. Lead P1, 2 and 3, Dougie led final pitch. Was quite greasy and started raining on P3. Final pitch was soaked by the time I climbed it which spiced things up a bit!

Tom Phillips 27/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Leofallon 27/Jun/13 AltLd
deklan 24/Jun/13 AltLd
with Tom
Bennykr 20/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Finally done, total classic.

Jillybean 20/Jun/13 AltLd
with Bennykr
R0bbie 18/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with leighn
leighncsontos 17/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

As the Greek Goddess Nike once said, 'Just do it'

with R0bbie
KRB 11/Jun/13 Lead rpt

33 since last doing this climb in fine evening sunshine. Not so this time, but the howling gale and constant drizzle did nothing to detract from the absolute class of this route. Made sure that I over-protected the last pitch due to the greasyness of some sections only to then pull all the runners out as I took in the ropes leaving Chris with a nervy un-protected traverse. Payback for Vector!

with Chris Bridges
Alex.M-M. 10/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led: p.1/2, 4. Missed part of p.1. due to the tide. Climbed p.1/2 as a single pitch. Lives up to the hype, p.4. is something special.

KeenClimber 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Ron p1, me p2,3,4.

with Ron
piersnewton 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

pitch 1 and 3 lead

ollyroberts 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2+4

Mike W 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
herman0055 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

really good climb the 4c crux felt a little harder but best route done to date

with John
georgedunton 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

did pitch 2 and 3 as one, Led these ones

with Mike W
Trevor Allison ?/Jun/13 2nd dnf
with deklan
Matt crawford ?/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Stunningly calm sea and weather, raped in and hoped across boulders at low tide. I went a bit off route on first pitch and ended up doing pitch 1 & 2 together. Wicked route!

with Taba
robgixer ?/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 30/May/13 AltLd rpt
Grabtheslab 30/May/13 AltLd

last pitch

Hidden 28/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Rollo 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

I did P2 (did it in three pitches)

mike.moss 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Rollo
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
stuaart 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

Neil P1+P4, me P2, Mark P3. Climbing as a three made for hilarious amounts of exposure on the second and tetchy / gloriously cramped belays.

with Marq, Neil Redgrave
Hidden 25/May/13 2nd
Hidden 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
kiks 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
Marq 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

Managed to ab right down to the bottom at low tide. About 70m from the abseil block. Neil, Stuart, me then Neil.

with stuaart, Neil Redgrave (LMC)
Hidden 21/May/13 -
TheAndyBarker 07/May/13 AltLd
with Jonny Herbert
Hidden 06/May/13 2nd O/S
Matt Cooke 05/May/13 AltLd O/S
Lev 05/May/13 Lead O/S
with Emma
Hidden 04/May/13 AltLd
Steve Perry 04/May/13 Lead O/S


with Gethin
beckycoles 02/May/13 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/13 AltLd O/S
Johnmuff ?/May/13 Lead
Hidden 29/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Dan Geh 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Living the dream! My favourite HVS, straightforward climbing, just enough gear and tones of exposure!

with AMJ098
arose 25/Apr/13 Lead

place deserted after raining all morning - dried very quickly

HannahFrancis 25/Apr/13 AltLd

Brilliant evening sunshine. Amazing route

with arose
dohart 18/Apr/13 2nd

Wanted to do this for years. Wind was force 5 to 7 gusting gale force 8. Trying to pay out the rope from the hanging belay of 3rd pitch ( we didnt do pitch 1) was definately the crux ! Add in the excitement of climbing on wet rock and its certainly a day I wont forget.

with dave rudkin
Hidden 09/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/13 Lead
fletch540 01/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with joe flannagan
joeflan 01/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
AMJ098 ?/Apr/13 2nd
with Dan Geh
Hidden 31/Mar/13 AltLd
DJayB 31/Mar/13 AltLd rpt
Chris Reid 16/Mar/13 Lead
Hidden 16/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Robin Woodward ?/Mar/13 Lead dnf
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
clarky_two ??/2013 -
captain ??/2013 -
jimxxx ??/2013 -
cripper ??/2013 AltLd dnf

bailed out due to being caught in a storm on the second pitch.

Flashy ??/2013 AltLd O/S
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
tim20 ??/2013 -
Dan Lane 24/Oct/12 Lead O/S

What a grand day out! I led every pitch, which made swapping over on the belays a bit of a faff. We started on the ledges about half way up P1. From there I linked the top half of P1 into P2. Almost ended up being a bit of an epic as Ash seconded the last pitch in the dark, waiting for the lighthouse beam to come around again so he could spot the holds! I found the start of (Guidebook) pitch 3 to be the crux. Not P2 at all. PS, because we finished in the dark we had to leave a few wires behind, if anybody gets they out I'd be grateful for their return. Happy to pay postage/beer tokens.

ashmellor 24/Oct/12 2nd

Fell at base of the final groove, good fun route

Andrew Lodge 21/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Lived up to all expectations, led pitches 1 & 3. The whole route is great fun even with water dripping down our necks at the back of the zawn. Certainly felt worth HVS to me, not the hardest at the grade by a long way but certainly worth more than VS. Just the sort of route you expect at Gogarth

Hidden 21/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Tadams 21/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

2nd and 4th pitches. Excellent!

with Mark Challoner
shaunhumphreys 13/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
with JemG
Nick1812P 13/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Started about half way up P1, I led P1, 2 and 4

with Anna
Hidden 09/Oct/12 AltLd rpt
JemG 06/Oct/12 AltLd

the 3rd pitch... soooo good

Graeme Hammond 29/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with David Brown, Jim Slater
Jim Slater 29/Sep/12 AltLd rpt
with David Brown, Graeme Hammond
Chris Manasseh 22/Sep/12 AltLd

Led 2 + 4. Did all 4 pitches. Breathtaking.

with John Armstrong
jvarmstrong 22/Sep/12 AltLd

led p1&3

with Chris
danimal88 16/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

sweet. pitch 2 had the hard move the rest lived up to expectations

with Mike Met office
tyler836 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with James 'The Econolist' Connoly, pete87abs, DJayB
pete87abs 09/Sep/12 AltLd rpt

outstanding as remembered, made better with 3 best friends

Hidden 09/Sep/12 AltLd
DJayB 09/Sep/12 Lead rpt

Very windy, raining and the icing on the cake.....the wind blew somebody's urine into my mouth. A stark contrast from my last visit but none the less outstanding.

Hidden 08/Sep/12 2nd O/S
martrin 05/Sep/12 AltLd
with Sarah Kekus
Hidden ?/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Bruce Houston ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
HIGHTOWER 31/Aug/12 AltLd rpt

Led opposite pitches this time. 2 + 4

with Mike Kearney
Goodstuff 30/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led last pitch, Rob led 1st and 2nd. Wonderful!

with robandian
Souljah 26/Aug/12 2nd

Last pitch was soaking wet and id forgotten my chalk bag, which rather spiced things up! Unforgettable

with Andi T
Hardcore Pat 26/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Money pitch

with Chris Vanderz
djking1983 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Cool Route, Started from ledge of wen as high tide. Climbed as a 3 so took a while.

philhilo 19/Aug/12 AltLd rpt

Thirty years after the last time on this one and still a good one. Last pitch pretty wet - and blowing around and up the zawn onto Helen on the belay - brrrrr!

with heg
Hidden 12/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 10/Aug/12 Solo O/S

Amazing. Perfect orange sunset muted the exposure. Almost.

Stephen Shaw 08/Aug/12 AltLd
with Ed
The Big Sender 07/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Liam Ingram 07/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Worth the hype! Led P2 + 4.

Hidden 07/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Fergus Cuthill 07/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
pie_eater_pete 05/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with bwestwood
bwestwood 04/Aug/12 AltLd

led flake pitch

with pete sargeant
Chriswallis2 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with annaEM
Dunx 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with joeym
Tim Bateman 21/Jul/12 Lead
with Jamie, Alistair Crawford
ben360 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
C Mclean 15/Jul/12 AltLd
with ben williams
Hidden 07/Jul/12 AltLd
Fred_Richard 07/Jul/12 AltLd

Awsome route in great condition! final pitch was still wet due to seeppage adding some extra excitement. Not that hard but very exciting!

with Pete
Fatherof2 ?/Jul/12 AltLd
with Roger
Jevans ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Rob84 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Chris James
Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd
Smudge03 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

High tide start, I led P2 & 4. Stu led P3

Hidden 17/Jun/12 2nd
ellmang 17/Jun/12 Lead

Did high tide start, I did all 3 pitches with chris doing a slight redirect of final belay. final pitch was soaked due to heavy rain the day before. Awesome climbing :)

Hidden 10/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/12 AltLd
ushi 02/Jun/12 AltLd

Led pitch 2 and 4

with Andy Marshall
Hidden 01/Jun/12 -
Hidden 01/Jun/12 AltLd
duncandarnell ?/Jun/12 AltLd rpt
duncandarnell ?/Jun/12 AltLd rpt
mark4344 29/May/12 AltLd O/S

unable to boulder hop at base even at low tide. did pitch 1 of Wen before joining dream higher up. amazing exposure on top pitch.

with Matt Payne
cheeky 29/May/12 AltLd O/S

Absailed into the wrong point so had to climb wen to gain pitch 3.

Hidden 28/May/12 AltLd O/S
Leelogs 28/May/12 AltLd O/S

Great weather, great climb! Only people on the route. Led P2 and 4

with SCC
Richard Kinsman 27/May/12 Lead rpt

What a day! We were the only people on the slab all day. Perfect conditions and what a route! Awesome!!

with Melinda Kinsman
Hidden 26/May/12 2nd
keith Lonsdale 26/May/12 2nd
andybirtwistle 26/May/12 Lead

Almost 29 years after I did it the last time with Ernie:)

gripped01 19/May/12 AltLd
mikehenesy 17/May/12 AltLd O/S

spent a while finding the old equine thing but lasooed it in the end!! Helps if you go to the right car park of course. Three pitches, didn't abb to the bottom, getting to the abb along the skinny precipetous grass path was kin scarey! First pitch has a delicate move, I did the second which is a fantastic monkey romp up the diagonal crack and Percy grabbed the glory on the last.

with Percy
Hidden 07/May/12 AltLd O/S
minaturechris 05/May/12 AltLd O/S

Worth the wait to do it. A great adventure around the zawn.

with Barra
Lenny ?/May/12 AltLd β

Pitch 2 and ,4

with Les
Wil Treasure ?/May/12 AltLd O/S
rwm7131 08/Apr/12 AltLd
with JamesA
Hidden 08/Apr/12 AltLd β
Ched 01/Apr/12 AltLd
with gali
Hidden 01/Apr/12 AltLd
Maken 01/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Amazing Climb and an amzing place! 5 stars

BillyRidal ?/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Quite the outing, couldn't have had better weather. Need to do more sea cliffs.

Hidden 28/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Owain Llewelyn 26/Mar/12 AltLd
with Sam
Hidden 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Brannock 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Led first and third pitches, everything its reputed to be and more.

1202alarm 19/Mar/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/12 -
Drew M 12/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Very wet...

with Ed F
Hidden 12/Feb/12 AltLd
Carter 12/Feb/12 AltLd dog

An eventful day out to say the least! After a day of droped nuts, belay plates and interesting toilet arangements we finished the final pitch iluminated by headtorches from the other side of the zawn. Will have to go back and do the final pitch when I can actually see the holds, but what an experience.

with Celyn, Job A
Hidden 12/Feb/12 AltLd rpt
jezb1 14/Jan/12 AltLd

Skipped P1, lead P2 & P4. What a great route, it deserves the hype! P4 sublime. Loads of gear.

Hidden 14/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
JonG ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Steven Carter ??/2012 Lead O/S
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
cballard ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
cymjt ??/2012 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
Dave Hill ??/2012 -
Stewart Armstrong ??/2012 -
Anna duckett ??/2012 AltLd
with Nick Preistly
piersg ??/2012 AltLd
Ellis Bird ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
goadventure1 ??/2012 -

I think it's 5a.

Helen Gibson ??/2012 -
scott titt ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Nick Nitro ??/2012 -
peterbeaumont ??/2012 -
Owen_P ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd O/S
wi11 17/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

P 2&4 started on ledges. Went way too high on P2 and had to reverse it, should have know when it was getting tricky and everything was dusty. Really windy, my runners were all lifted horizontal by the wind on the last pitch! Looks improbable from the other side of the zawn but it is all there.

with GAL
Liam FLeming 07/Nov/11 -
with stuart lade, karen dalzell, Dan Jackson
tlmarjot 25/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with Dad (Chris Marjot), James Marjot
adi bryant 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
nadeem 26/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Cheers for the advice DLyonsewing! I went and did it and found it quite notorious!!! very excellent.

Hidden 15/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Duncan Campbell 15/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Led top half of p1+2, and p4. tricky traverse on p2, felt 5a. 4th pitch is absolutely mega though big jugs and big exposure!! Got an absolute hawl of crag booty! 2 draws, 3 wires and 2 slings! Enjoy...

HeatherF 15/Sep/11 AltLd rpt
alexjz 15/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Matt Burdekin
Woodiee 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Literally Awesome!! That is all that needs to be said- DO IT!!

chripstine 01/Sep/11 -
with Mav
Hidden 30/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Martin Davies 30/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Matt Harris
Hidden 26/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 26/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Adam Coles 21/Aug/11 AltLd
with ben1987
ben1987 21/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome, well exposed, easy climbing. Not for the feint hearted!!!

Dizz 14/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with peter h, Yvonne
Nickc 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Stoney Boy 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Nick Conway
Jay C 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Clay C
Clay C 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Jay C
chedder 09/Aug/11 Lead
with Lee Wales
will9911 07/Aug/11 Lead O/S

all pitches lead

with ade
simon kimber 05/Aug/11 AltLd

led p3, done p1 and 2 before

with Ben Hirst
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 03/Aug/11 2nd
mary 01/Aug/11 2nd
with Dale Gautrey
Graham Westbrook 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
elCapitano 28/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Outstanding, when we found it. Led pitches 2 and 4. Easy climbing and well protected. Can't fault it.

M_W_Court 28/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3

Hidden 25/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Rampikino 24/Jul/11 Lead
with Cat
Jen Crook 22/Jul/11 AltLd
stephenhartley 20/Jul/11 2nd
nickmattia 20/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
CRiddiford 13/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

me p2,4 john p1,3. Atmospheric when the tide's coming in, lovely route and the 1st pitch is worth doing!

with John
Hidden 13/Jul/11 AltLd rpt
simeclimb68 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Dylan Burgess
John Lewis 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

led 2nd and 4th pitches

with Barra
psychicbread 09/Jul/11 AltLd

High tide start

with Max
coombsy 09/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

simply awesome

with John B
Exodus 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie
Keendan 07/Jul/11 2nd β

A lot of fun, and a lot more serious than I had expected.

mackay780 07/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/11 2nd
metal arms 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
vinspin 01/Jul/11 AltLd β

lead pitch 2 and 4 Amazing!

ritchierich 01/Jul/11 AltLd rpt

Pitch 2 for me today,great route conbined with airy feel and good climbing.

with vinspin
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd
mattkemp70 ?/Jul/11 AltLd
with Westy
JohnH1977 ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Archibald ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

amazing and easy climb. First britain trip for us, we where very happy to climb this goal.

Andy Chubb 30/Jun/11 AltLd

Started from the ledge about half way up the first pitch as tide was high. Did it in three pitches from there

with Nick Gregory
Hidden 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
fizzychewitt 26/Jun/11 AltLd

Led P2 and 4. What a great line!

Cake 18/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

P2,3,4 only. Led 2 and 4. Apprehensive abseiling down. Just on top of the arch, the sea got rougher to add to the thrill. P4 is a romp

9fingerjon 18/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Wow! Great Route. Skipped pitch 1, led pitch 3. Owen led 2 and 4.

with Cake
Hidden 18/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
dan ely 16/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with steve
Hidden 15/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Glyn 15/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Very windy!

Lawrie Brand 14/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Great last pitch..

with Jo
Hidden 11/Jun/11 AltLd
Longsufferingropeholder 10/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Luis SD 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Neil McA 03/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Bjorn Kruse
Simon Allcock 02/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

i lead 3rd pitch

with Wilki
Hidden 01/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
duncandarnell ?/Jun/11 AltLd rpt
tomdude 30/May/11 AltLd O/S
with shamonster
HeatherF 30/May/11 Lead O/S

Finally!!!!!! Lead the 1st and 3rd pitches, last traverse was awesome. A bit easier than i expected

Tom Livingstone 30/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/May/11 AltLd O/S
garywong 28/May/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1,3 & 4. Went too high on the third so had to add a precarious down-climb to get back on route. Bit battered and buffeted, but what an amazing final pitch.

with rd20
terri mc 28/May/11 2nd β

What an experience...Amazing!

with Rik Battye, Ebarnes
Hidden 28/May/11 -
rd20 28/May/11 AltLd dog

RD P2. P4 fantastic fun

3 Names 27/May/11 AltLd O/S
givemetea 27/May/11 AltLd O/S

led P1 and P3 in an absolute hoolie

David Sherratt 24/May/11 Lead O/S
chrisdavies 21/May/11 AltLd O/S

nice climb, great top pitch, just would have been less freaky if the wind hadn`t been blowing a hoolie!!

with simon moore
Hidden 19/May/11 AltLd O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 17/May/11 Lead

In a 3. Quite cold but still good.

with ClimbWebNet
crag_hopper_Jay 17/May/11 AltLd O/S
whiting.jp 14/May/11 AltLd
with jamesca
Hidden 14/May/11 AltLd O/S
ellmang 14/May/11 2nd

started in the rain and finished in the dark... one of the best climbs i've ever done!

andi turner 13/May/11 AltLd

International Meet. First time I've done the route from the bottom. Made exciting by my partner's obsession with only placing tri-cams...and not many of them. He said he would have soloed it, I felt like I was ;o)

with Ioan from Romania
belay bunny turned bad 11/May/11 AltLd O/S
bullethead 08/May/11 AltLd O/S

Started from the notch. Lead P2

with Sam, Richard Yorke
clairepoppett 01/May/11 AltLd O/S

Been on the tick list for too long and absolutely worth waiting for! I have some photos of the guys infront if you email me

with Jim Gaffney
Jim Gaffney 01/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/11 AltLd
haydng 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Rob
Pete Nugent 28/Apr/11 AltLd rpt

JV had not done before, I think this was my third (or more!) ascent. I led p1 & 3. Excellent climbing, the top pitch is truly amazing!

with John Venier
Sophie Nunn 28/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Pete S
Hidden 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Lead Concrete Chimney pitch into dream of white horses finish. Simply stunning exposure. hello gogarth! the worlds easiest scariest climb

with remus
Hidden 22/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Dafydd Llywelyn 11/Apr/11 AltLd dnf

Went off route... then had to abseil down as it started to rain. Then needed to yard up the (dynamic) abseil rope as neither of us had prussiks. Still, going to back to complete!

al99 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 AltLd
Reaver2k 26/Mar/11 AltLd
with JRae
andy dunn 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Utterly superb!! J started from the ledge, I got the second and 4th pitches. Some quite varied climbing throughout and some absolutely awesome positions on the last pitch which I led at sunset (This just made the climbing feel even more special). The least said about J's traverse of the 4th pitch in the dark the better! An absolute classic and well deserving of 3*

with J
JRae 26/Mar/11 AltLd
dan ely 24/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with tony (army)
benchwarmer 16/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with Bertie, Liam FLeming
surfboybert 16/Mar/11 AltLd O/S


with ewan brown, liam flemming
tom.e 05/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

P2 of concrete chimney, p4 of dream.

Mr Powly 05/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with tom.e
HenryCowan 13/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with James MacHaffie
Hidden ??/2011 -
drew8connelly ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
HenryCowan ??/2011 Lead

best climb ever!

with James MacHaffie
Hidden ??/2011 -
ColinD ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Gareth H ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
walts4 ??/2011 -
tuftynick ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
thebigfriendlymoose ??/2011 -
with Sankey
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
alasdair19 ??/2011 -

with Dad and matt also with Perry, not sure I've ever abbed right to the lowest point...

paul79 ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/2011 -
Nick Nitro ??/2011 AltLd O/S
MarekM ??/2011 AltLd
JEP ??/2011 -
hilty 13/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

Easy climbing started at notch as tides v high, led first and last pitch. Last pitch had water running down it but holds all there. Pitch being wet added to it. Great route, one of my faves!!!

Hidden 10/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
lukas richardo 10/Oct/10 AltLd β

finally got it done. lead p2&4. very nice. high tides meant a shorter first pitch. my bad gear placements and poor rope work meant a 'special' final pitch for dave. respect due to him. an accomplished performance by dave. i cant and wont say the same for myself. it only took us 5 and half hours so we must be competent right? apologies to those following due.

with dave
Hidden 10/Oct/10 2nd
owain86 08/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Led all pitches, awesome!

chriscarroll 08/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with owain86
Chris wilson 04/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

The last pitch is as good as the hype. Strong wind and wet rock made it an absorbing pitch. Always great to get these classic routes to yourself, no one else in the Zawn today except a solitary seal.

with Paulww
Hidden ?/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
RCrockford 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S

High tide start, lead all pitches. Awesome.

with Charlie
Hidden 13/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Mark D 11/Sep/10 AltLd
alek 11/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Laurence Everitt 11/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

lead the last pitch just before the rain started, great adventure.

with Mark D, alek
Justin T 08/Sep/10 2nd
jayrenegade 05/Sep/10 AltLd

What a mission. Tried to do this the weekend before and nearly got benighted on the thing. Such an awesome route though, intimidating, but brilliant. Led P2 and P4

with Prav
Sankey 04/Sep/10 AltLd

Started low enough to do half of P1 rather than at the notch. Lead the flake pitch. The route fully lived up to its reputation.

Simon Holden (LCandCC) 03/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Swifty
steven 03/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Simon did 1st and third pitch.

with Simon Holden
clipskipper 02/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

A good solid route and worth the trip, but not that hard for HVS. Also not worth the hype.

with John Orr
rustaldo 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S

awesome climb, with deserved reputation..

with al123
al123 01/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

awesome climb, awesome exposure but not in a nasty way, great climb!!

S Lynch 31/Aug/10 -
Hidden 31/Aug/10 AltLd β
NaomiHart 27/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with PeteH
PeteH 27/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
clive-greenwood 26/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Started half way up pitch one at about 4pm. Topped out as sun set. Awesome. A goal for years.

Hidden 25/Aug/10 AltLd
mark20 16/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led short pitch from ledge and 3rd pitch.

Sam1991 16/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Mark P1 and 3, Me P2 and 4. Superb climbing on all pitches, great position, wild exposure, never very hard, Lives up to its reputation IMO

with Mark
Neil Adams 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Done as the sun was setting to try to avoid the crowds.

with Andy N
Hidden 15/Aug/10 AltLd
Sandy Simpson 14/Aug/10 -
with Ross Hewitt
Ann S 14/Aug/10 2nd

Started from Wen ledge. All belays very cosy with 3 of us. Used the triangling method with 3 ropes on the final traverse. Very amenable climbing in a stunning place. I was back man till the final pitch then sensibly went in the middle as I have ruled out any more epics.

with Adam and John C
John Carlin 14/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with anne shaw
Adam1973 14/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led 2 and 4.

with John Carlin, Ann S
Hidden 09/Aug/10 AltLd
gb83 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S

absolutely gripping adventure. brilliant climbing, nothing too technical but almost all in exposed situations. The only negative was that my head was not in the right place and I was genuinely scared on this climb, although ironically by the final pitch I had got a grip of myself and actually quite enjoyed this brilliant climb. will definitely go back to lead. :)

with masa
masa-alpin 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Looked impossible when looking from the promontory, but turned out to be much easier -- technically. Absolutely awesome glorious route! Almost gone off route, at P3 and P4 at one stage, but the partner Graeme guided me well, so the price was just a bit of climbing back.

with gb83
HIGHTOWER 05/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Fantastic day. Started from ledge so did short first pitch. Led pitch 1 and 3.

healeyduk 02/Aug/10 AltLd
jcook1980 01/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Jenny
Hidden ?/Aug/10 -
Homes 31/Jul/10 AltLd
with Dan W
Jennyvs 31/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Jon Cook
bigbobbyking 25/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Most intimidated climb I've ever done! Especially as it started raining on the last pitch!

with Chris Bull
Tomprusk 20/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Wet, but still quite an experience! rather unique in position but there are better climbs at gogarth that seem neglected

dan-8990 20/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with TP
Scott Kirkhope 13/Jul/10 AltLd
Craig Geddes 13/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Noodles30 11/Jul/10 Lead
bsmedz 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
bwestwood 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

beautiful day beautiful climb, technically easy, situation amazing, got last pitch!

with bsmedz
twright180 ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Owain Llewelyn 28/Jun/10 AltLd
with Sarah, Dad
Moondance 26/Jun/10 2nd O/S
pabbage 21/Jun/10 Lead
Trisha Murphy 21/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with rich
Guy Wilson 21/Jun/10 AltLd
with Paulo
Hidden 20/Jun/10 AltLd
victim of mathematics 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1 (from the ledges) & 3. Great climbing, but there's not much 4c, let alone 5a. A totally incredible line in an incredible place.

crossdressingrodney 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

The difficulties are all in your mind - two VS traverse pitches away from your ab line just to reach the start of the most intimidating HS pitch of your life!

d_meacher 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with JWT
Hidden 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
tatz45 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Led 1st and 3rd pitches.

Jess patel 18/Jun/10 AltLd
tomhull 18/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

started at the ledge, i lead the 1st and 2nd together. was scared abbing down cos it was my first sea cliff climb but as soon as i was tied in i had a stupid grin on my face from start to finish. fantastic route!!!

with mike thomas, sally wheatley
Hidden 17/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
tigertim 17/Jun/10 AltLd dnf

CLimbed off route and ended up climbing out on Wen

with Melenie
Ross Davidson 04/Jun/10 2nd O/S

carried on from concrete chimney

Hidden 31/May/10 Lead
Byronius Maximus 31/May/10 AltLd O/S

Great route, last pitch is good fun. Pratting about at the second belay waiting for the next pitch to clear was great fun!

with remus
Hidden 31/May/10 AltLd O/S
Cardi 30/May/10 AltLd O/S

Wow! Abbed in due to tide and did as 3 pitches. Led P1 and P3

with Sam S
karmaclimbing 30/May/10 AltLd

dropped chalk bag into the sea. sat around for 1.5 hours on first belay ledge waiting for others to crack on. stop started a few times sat in very cramped belay ledge above others on the main ledge on concrete chimney after five hours my feet hurt so much and my hands were so soapy that i had to get a top rope up concrete chimney. good climb but the ending spoilt by nerves and definate fall on last pitch. led pitch 2 which was cool.advice...try and wait for a clear run at it or you will get belay cramp.!!!

Barry Kerslake 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Luke F
Nick Rundall 28/May/10 Lead rpt
with Jon Taylor
Dr Toph 09/May/10 AltLd O/S

First Gogarth route. Led P2+4. Got a bit lost on the slab due to hypothermia, which made it extra spicy. Last pitch is amazing - "It cant possibly go through there?"

Hidden 08/May/10 Lead O/S
vincentvega 03/May/10 AltLd

Climbed in 3 pitches from V notch.

with danny robb
ig248 03/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Philip, Kane
decs 01/May/10 AltLd

Cheeky late evening ascent. Walls glowing in the sunset. Hazzah!

with tebs
Hidden 01/May/10 AltLd O/S
carlh ?/May/10 AltLd rpt
tobydunford 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Harry Martin
Hidden 20/Apr/10 -
willson 16/Apr/10 AltLd

Started half way up first pitch.

with ben
Hidden 15/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 15/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

abseiled in wrong place so did first pitch of wen to start. I then lead third pitch of dream.

with Ed F
Hidden 13/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
mick1jones 03/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

led pitches 1 and 3

with DW2
Dale ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S

The last pitch is brilliant, it was wet when I did it made it more fun

with Tim
evyasb ?/Apr/10 -
stuart34 27/Mar/10 2nd
with James Monypenny
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
mcgrathr ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 -
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
Microwired22 ??/2010 -
Ched ??/2010 AltLd rpt
with Rhys
Ched ??/2010 Lead rpt
with Ifan
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
soph ??/2010 -
thebigeasy ??/2010 -
philw ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Steve Long ??/2010 -
sionjosh ??/2010 AltLd
sionjosh ??/2010 -
eugeneth 27/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

led 1st and 3rd pitch

sebrider 26/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Living the dream ;) !

RachelP 25/Sep/09 2nd
with JamieH
chrisallan 18/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 18/Sep/09 AltLd

Led P3 (we didn't climb the first pitch up from the sea)

troutbeck 16/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with A.M.
surfbish 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S

As the fourth pitch loomed I became more and more intimerdated but leading it was one of the greatest experiences of my climbing life. If you get the chance get on it.

with Tom
Dave Mason 29/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Trev Tatler
Lawrence Eccles 29/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with A. Crook
leon 22/Aug/09 AltLd

lead 2nd and 4th pitch. the rib on the 4th pitch was very wet and water was raining down onto it due to drainage. got cold from wen stance onwards.

with Chris Munton
Ken Applegate 17/Aug/09 AltLd

Led pitches 1 and 3. It took us 4 attempts to finally get on this route, but definitely worth it!

with Alex Wheldon
pebbles 13/Aug/09 2nd

:-D, :-D started from pitch 2

Hidden 09/Aug/09 -
david morse 07/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with mikey R
melonmike 07/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/09 AltLd rpt
Hidden 03/Aug/09 2nd dog
Hidden 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
godusty 02/Aug/09 2nd
davidwright 01/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

lead 2 and 4

jimxxx ?/Aug/09 Lead
KeenClimber ?/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with jimxxx, Lee Healey
Dave Searle 27/Jul/09 Lead O/S


with ben
mulletcocktail2000 22/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

very excitable seas! sarted from a hanging belay below the chimney. traversed too high! much harder than hvs. good route all the same with fantasic final pitch.

with john
jored 22/Jul/09 AltLd
with Ryan
lithos 18/Jul/09 AltLd

P2 + P4, got there just in time, sorry about that delay guys (hanging belay for me), Paul had a bit of route finding issues. P4 was dripping which made it interesting !

with cookie
Dave Foster 18/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

P2 and P4. It's all about the last pitch!

with Andy
kevg 18/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Abbed in and then waited 2 and a half hours(!) on belay ledge before we could start climbing. Rained a bit but the climbing was good in a stunning position.

with Craw
Brendan 17/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3. Seconding a damp P4 in fading light and topping out to an orange sunset will be one of my abiding climbing memories.

with Paul
Hidden 12/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Andrew1 01/Jul/09 Lead
with Juliet Parker Smith
AdrianP ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Great adventure. Had difficulties finding the ab block, when all you have to do is follow the fairly exposed path at the top of the crag.

with Olli
Hidden 29/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Kirill 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

didnt climb the first pitch, started from the notch, paul led the final pitch

Hidden 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
pete87abs 15/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Do it! amazing!

with DJayB
DJayB 15/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
AMarchant 08/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route

with Anthony Eccles
tommytuffa 04/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Awesome weather, superb route

with luketheape, Nick Smith
lukehunt 04/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
nic42 04/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Tom, Luke
Hidden 03/Jun/09 AltLd
John Roe 03/Jun/09 AltLd

led pitches 2 & 4, in the shade till 2pm

GScot38 ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
mugglewump ?/Jun/09 AltLd

Brilliant route, just don't inspect it from the opposite head land if you are nervous about it as our Irish friends did and then bottled it. James did the awesome last pitch

with me and bro
Hidden ?/Jun/09 AltLd
Hidden 31/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May/09 AltLd O/S
mustgetstronger 29/May/09 AltLd O/S
jibberingwreck 29/May/09 AltLd O/S

As three piches as we abseiled in to the top of Pitch 1. I led Pitch 2 and 4. Excellent adventure!

Hidden 29/May/09 AltLd O/S
cmsg 24/May/09 AltLd O/S
with jelaby
jelaby 24/May/09 AltLd O/S

As three pitches, starting from the ledge higher ledge. Led P2.

with cmsg
uncontrollable 24/May/09 AltLd O/S

topped out just before sunset, beautiful climb

with Viskii
Em66 24/May/09 2nd O/S
with Freg1
Hidden 24/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/May/09 AltLd O/S
AJM 23/May/09 AltLd O/S

A wild and windy day, very atmospheric. Toms runners on the last pitch were being blown horizontal by the updraft...

with Tubs
chris m fisher 23/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Andy
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 21/May/09 AltLd rpt
with Vincent Canova
Hidden 19/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/May/09 Lead O/S
smudge 12/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Rob
Jim Slater 03/May/09 AltLd O/S

Missed out pitch 1, Led P2+P4. Fantastic experience, the final pitch is just out there!

Hidden 03/May/09 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?/May/09 Lead
maybe_si 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S

over graded and over rated??

with jez
CharlieMack 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Really good climb, tho arrived without guidebook or knowledge of where the route went, purely going off remembering photos seen on UKC! adventurous experience to say the least!

with Matt Watkins
Hidden 24/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Becky E 11/Apr/09 2nd

Fabulous climbing every step of the way.

Hidden 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Si dH 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Got to the crag by 845 hoping to eb first on the route - and werent. Queuedbehind two parties who both got off-route, and ended up on the route, mostly in the cold shade, for 8 hours (9-5!). It was good though and we still got Concrete Chimney done afterwards. I led pitches 1 and 3.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
mic_b 10/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with James Blake
vanderz 10/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Steve Fletcher
Hidden 10/Apr/09 2nd
Tommy G 04/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Memorable lead that I have been saving for while. Good to do it as a father son team and definitely one of my top climbing highlights. Also enjoyed the glass of Innis and Gunn we had after. Check it out. : )

with Dad
Jez ?/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
matiyam 27/Mar/09 AltLd
AJ007 23/Mar/09 AltLd
Hidden 20/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
ritchierich 20/Mar/09 AltLd rpt

Started from V groove and I did 3 pitch. Get there early because it gets busy.

gripped01 ?/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Alex Tomczynski
Ched ?/Jan/09 Lead rpt
ste19 ??/2009 AltLd O/S

semi epic:i took 3rd pitch to realize i couldent set up the belay,so i had to climb back and let mark lead it instead.its a completely different experience in the zawn.mind blowingly beautifull,exposed,and superbly excellent.my most favourite route so far

with mark
Hidden ??/2009 2nd
Johnny Baker ??/2009 AltLd

Big windy day sea running like in Leos photo

with Matt Knapp
Kenemo ??/2009 -
Kenemo ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd O/S
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
windy100 ??/2009 -
antarcticfox ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Mark Lawton
RM199 ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd O/S
plain kitten ??/2009 AltLd
CarolineH 15/Nov/08 2nd O/S
Bristoldave 15/Nov/08 Lead O/S
nigel pearson 02/Nov/08 AltLd O/S

We had waited for over a year before our visit coincided with good conditions. A fantastic adventure climbed in the November sun.

with Robin
leadmat ?/Oct/08 2nd
Hidden 26/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Carly 26/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Richard
ritchierich 24/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Lower section of pitch one very damp so started from small ledge just over halfway of pitch 1. Lead pitches 2 and 4. Fantastic climbing but gear placements poor on pitch 2 and a nice rusty peg on old tat as your best runner :(

with Bob Dickson
Hidden 16/Sep/08 AltLd
Hjort 14/Sep/08 AltLd dnf

Hit by falling rock, so bailed after first pitch.

with Gareth Buckley
Hidden 07/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 07/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/08 -
dts 30/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

“Wow...” That’s probably the only word that describes that super exposed final pitch!

with Andy Taylor, Sam Dixon
Sam1991 30/Aug/08 AltLd β

Abbed too far, started from wrong ledge system, ended up off route. Finished on P4 of dream though (best pitch and my lead :D First HVS, loved it.)

with Andy and Dan
stemill 29/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with jeffb
jeffb 29/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

What a fantastic route and ste a great partner. Cheers dude.

with stemill
juza 23/Aug/08 2nd
with Garry Cooper
Stewart B 07/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Started at around half 6 or so in a break in the persistent drizzle. Got rained on after the first pitch till the end and ended up topping out in the dark. Brilliant! Superb atmosphere on the route.

with Chris Everett
James B 28/Jul/08 AltLd
OffshoreAndy 25/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Jade
manmike 23/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with karly54
Hidden 23/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Jim Walton 20/Jul/08 AltLd

Mmmm nice

with Steve Pugh
John Kettle 04/Jul/08 AltLd
jimbobimbo ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead
GavinB ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
tonanf ?/Jul/08 AltLd

got stuck, climbed down and round hard move. route running with water, wearing heavy ruck sack.on half gear as 2nd 2nd, excellent!!!

with bryan and john sun
Hidden 28/Jun/08 2nd
Tim W 28/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

lead 2nd and 4th pitch

Hidden 28/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
porridgefan 06/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Missed the first pitch due to tides: Gaz: pitch 2 Me: pitch 3 and 4 The guidebook also ended up in the sea...

with Gareth Borthwick
gareth scott borthwick 06/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

missed low tide so couldn't climb first pitch, i led 2nd pitch and phil lead 3rd and 4th

with phil
Hidden 04/Jun/08 AltLd
sgl 02/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Susie
Hidden 25/May/08 2nd O/S
Hardonicus 25/May/08 Lead O/S
bfreeman 24/May/08 Lead O/S
with Tim Marjot
Hidden 24/May/08 2nd O/S
ingo 20/May/08 Lead O/S
with Jeremy
Tom Eagle 19/May/08 AltLd

Awesome - most bizarre and atmospheric climb ever! I'll be back to do this one again...

with skygod78
Abi Chard 19/May/08 AltLd O/S

So wanted this climb. Led the second and fourth pitches - must go back and lead the others.

Hidden 15/May/08 AltLd
Hidden 11/May/08 AltLd O/S
climbingpixie 11/May/08 Lead O/S

Tide too high to do first pitch. Led all other pitches.

with James
Calder 05/May/08 AltLd O/S

with Gail in the middle. We missed out Pitch 1, I led the 3rd pitch and the exit up the groove.

with @ndy
@ndy 05/May/08 AltLd O/S
with calder
Hidden ?/May/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
tlmarjot ?/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
with Ben Freeman
Hidden ?/Apr/08 AltLd
richardr ?/Apr/08 AltLd
nige 16/Feb/08 Lead
with sven rowan
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
peter myers ??/2008 AltLd
with Jaap Overtoom
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Andy Graham ??/2008 AltLd O/S

Started from notch. I lead pitches 1 and 3. Fantastic Route. I want to get on it in violent weather.

with Tony Liddy, Dan Liddy, Steve Anderson
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Stone Muppet ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Gibson27 ??/2008 AltLd O/S

Just pure brillant!

blahblahblah 09/Nov/07 AltLd O/S

started from ledges 1/2 way up 1st pitch led 1st and 3rd and finished 4th pitch in the dark with headtorches !

with Nick Hirst
Hidden 25/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
Owen_P 05/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

awesome sunny day, climbed with Sam. Last pitch is fantastic! highly recommended however first few pitches are a bit indistinct.

with Sam Corcoran
Misha 30/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Really enjoyed this for the adventure and the crazy line. Found it pretty straightforward as was just starting to lead E1 at the time. My first route at Gogarth - the start of a long and rewarding relationship...

The Reaper 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/07 AltLd
Rachel S 29/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

led 1st 2 pitches, Des led last 2.

with Des Chadderton
thomaspassmore 27/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Ben Pryke
will6459 ?/Sep/07 AltLd

lead first pitch then had to back off up wen due to not enough light

with Andy Hext
scorky345 ?/Sep/07 AltLd
with Owen Pearce
Rampikino 25/Aug/07 AltLd
with Mark Hills
Hidden 25/Aug/07 AltLd
Hidden 13/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Bob M 08/Aug/07 AltLd
Rich Mayfield 03/Aug/07 AltLd

With Gaz Parry in high winds and heavy rain.

Mark Stevenson 03/Aug/07 AltLd rpt
with Gaz Parry
Brian Wilderspin 02/Aug/07 AltLd

Repeated after many years.

with Tony Clifford
Bella ?/Aug/07 Lead β
with Paula
Allan Watson 30/Jul/07 AltLd
with Steve Thomas
Tobias at Home 28/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

went off-route on first pitch - left Mun with delightfuly unprotected downclimb. last pitch was dripping.

with Mun
Hidden 12/Jul/07 Lead O/S
SecretSquirrel 29/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Awesome route.

featuresforfeet 29/Jun/07 AltLd rpt

Lead P1 & P3 this time.

Luke Brooks 04/Jun/07 AltLd
ChalkBall 04/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
DuckingFesperate ?/Jun/07 AltLd
dan gibson 27/May/07 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
Hidden 26/May/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May/07 AltLd O/S
featuresforfeet 12/May/07 AltLd O/S
with Clive M
beds74 05/May/07 AltLd

I did 1st/Last pitches. Tricky rope work practice to protect the last pitch round the zawn. Beautiful route.

with Karl Bromelow, Craig Hartley
spum 05/May/07 AltLd
with gareth
seemore 28/Apr/07 AltLd

1st and last pitched lead. Missed out lower section of the climb

with Sam Cots
Mattyk 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches.. abbed into start of 2nd.. what can i say! Amazing route.. picks a line through the impossible, easy climbing amazing situation! 6*'s

with Mo
phil hay 12/Apr/07 AltLd β

Expossed,Sunny,Windy quite easy climbing for grade but absolutly fantastic cant wait to repeat.

with andy higginbottom
Hidden 01/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
barni ?/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Omar
jonnie3430 17/Mar/07 Lead O/S

Started spitting at end of 3rd pitch, looked at alternative of Concrete Chimney to escape, but did 4th pitch as it was easier. Stonking route.

with Nikki
matiyam ?/Mar/07 AltLd

Wonderful climb!!

with Dave
fran04 ??/2007 AltLd
Hidden ??/2007 -
nicolat ??/2007 AltLd O/S
mux ??/2007 AltLd

twice now, both low level start and the traverse

with Adam
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd
tumbling wizard ??/2007 -
jrace70 ??/2007 2nd O/S

just wow!!

Martin Haworth 07/Oct/06 AltLd O/S
Andrew Sloan 07/Oct/06 AltLd O/S

Have waited years to do this...well worth it.Led 2nd and 4th pitches.

runestone 15/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/06 Lead O/S
JGW ?/Sep/06 -
shoulders 03/Aug/06 Lead
with sharpie
shoulders 03/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
Hidden ?/Aug/06 AltLd
simonbarrow 28/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Couldn't find a suitable (non fright inducing) belay in concrete chimney on pitch 2- carried on round the corner, and hung there. Excellent, relatively easy climbing, in an awesome place. A great birthday present!

with spacey
spacey 28/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
George Ormerod 20/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Excellent route. Led last pitch

with Roger and Kris
Stig 04/Jul/06 AltLd rpt
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
kjbix 03/Jul/06 AltLd

Fantastic climb

with Richard Beech
Will1 ?/Jul/06 -
with Mike
Adam Booth 13/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Ed Booth 13/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Tom M Williams 07/Jun/06 AltLd

awesome, first big HVS! Took 2nd and 4th pitch

with Andy Hobson
Hidden 07/Jun/06 AltLd
reg_measures 06/May/06 AltLd O/S
with timmy elson
Hidden 28/Apr/06 AltLd
Ben Wolstenholme ??/2006 -
with JR
Hidden ??/2006 -
centurion05 ??/2006 Lead O/S


with Dan Carroll
Mark Reeves ??/2006 -
King Rat ??/2006 AltLd
TimTaylor1980 ??/2006 Lead dog
mikelaing ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with Phil Abram
Pete Graham ??/2006 AltLd
with Dave Morris
jim robertson ??/2006 -
beardy mike ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with Frank Medina
Hidden ??/2006 AltLd O/S
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
jamiev 22/Oct/05 AltLd O/S
with stephen pritchard
Seb31 ?/Oct/05 2nd O/S
with Andrey
spidey 29/Aug/05 AltLd
Hidden 16/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
jimbonfire 11/Aug/05 Lead O/S

Got to be one of the best HVS in the Uk, amazing exposed climbing..

richgibson ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with John
Duncan I ?/Aug/05 -

Bank Holiday weekend and blowing a gale - we had the crag to ourselves

with ArnaudG
Nathan Kemp ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Dave Reeve ?/Aug/05 Lead
with Clare Pastorius
ArnaudG ?/Aug/05 -
Hidden ?/Aug/05 AltLd
Owen W-G 17/Jul/05 AltLd O/S

Led the pitch before the final one.

jgordon75 17/Jul/05 AltLd
duncan 02/Jul/05 AltLd rpt

Wild weather, wet day, brilliant climb

with Hugo Glover
nutty_didz ?/Jul/05 2nd
with Callum Hart
jamie ward 29/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
with Tom Skipworth
Howard J 18/Jun/05 AltLd O/S

Brilliant! We started at sea level and I led the second pitch (ie the first traversing pitch)

with Conan
Conan 18/Jun/05 AltLd
duncana 06/Jun/05 2nd
with Tom Challands
GPN ?/Jun/05 AltLd
with jamster
Iggy_B ?/May/05 AltLd O/S
with Pete H
Pythonist ?/May/05 Lead O/S

Done years ago - terrific route. Even more exciting due to (1) having to make up the belays in the middle of pitches because of crowds and (2) my left shoe taking a suicide dive off the belay at the end of pitch two...

with Nick Shuttleworth
Chris Beck ?/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
Conan ??/2005 AltLd O/S

Best HVS I've done. The 1st pitch from the sea was certainly 5a and well worth getting the tides right to ab all the way down to do it. 4c for the rest

with Howard Jones
Tom Briggs ??/2005 -
John Kettle ??/2005 AltLd
Antony Mariani ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with Simon (UKC)
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd β
stuc ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with Drew Withey
Ian Andrews ??/2005 AltLd O/S


with Fran Gowling
marcoleptic ??/2005 Lead
with Ben, Pete
Peter Smith ??/2005 AltLd
with Mick Leather
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
The Grist ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Nick Allsop
Paz ?/Dec/04 AltLd

Took a beginner on this on the high tide start, above rough seas, with a 40m rope. Luckily he did amazingly and we didn't fall off.

with GC
Mark Brightwell 15/Nov/04 2nd dnf

Crazy conds. Chris Warner attempted P1 but was getting blown off and retreated. We escaped via easier climbing next to ab

mikeyjbs 26/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
with hans allnut, simon ball, farrow
Hidden 10/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
nicholas Barrowclough ?/Sep/04 Lead
with Tim Davies
Hidden 13/Aug/04 AltLd
Bob M 13/Aug/04 AltLd
fayehughes ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with John
leerybunny ?/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
with Matt Thompson
johnboyrevel ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Faye
pete johnson 31/Jul/04 Lead

Lun left several cams in. Had to solo route to get them back.

with Lun
pete johnson 31/Jul/04 Solo
Hidden 17/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
Sandy P ?/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
with Guy Couper-Marsh
Hidden ?/Jul/04 AltLd
timreynolds 19/Jun/04 AltLd
with Martin Hoather
Ben1983 ?/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
davebrox ?/Jun/04 AltLd

Summer rain storm as i led out the final pitches, water running down into the concrete chimney where they were belayed!!

with nikki and james
Hidden ?/Jun/04 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/04 AltLd
r0b 24/Apr/04 AltLd O/S

High-tide start, I did the 1st and 3rd pitches

with Mark Humphries
Mark A Humphries 02/Apr/04 AltLd O/S

High tide on-sight of 2nd and 4th pitches. Led the 3rd pitch clean with Rob Harper on 24/04/04

with Nick Barrowclough
Stig ?/Apr/04 AltLd O/S

My first real ambition in climbing fulfilled. Led P1 and 3.

with Jonathan Teale
Mark Stevenson 07/Mar/04 AltLd O/S
with Crossley McEwen
red1200 ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd O/S
dicky79 ??/2004 AltLd O/S
with Mike Bottomley
chris wyatt ??/2004 AltLd
IanMulvany ??/2004 AltLd O/S
with Donal Whooly
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden ?/Nov/03 AltLd O/S
Gman ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S

Awesome position with reasonable climbing.

with James
lukea 27/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Al
Robbie H 26/Jul/03 AltLd O/S

Not including pitch 1 (high tide!)

with Mark Harrison
Hidden 17/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Paul Winder
JulesV ?/Jul/03 AltLd
Graham Atkins ?/Jul/03 AltLd
with JulesV
James B 29/Jun/03 AltLd
with Phil
Hidden 29/Jun/03 AltLd rpt
John Pickles 18/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
with Tim Blakemore
kylo-342 ?/Jun/03 AltLd
with chrisi
Hidden ?/Jun/03 AltLd
Marti999 ?/Jun/03 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/03 AltLd
Sut 30/May/03 Lead O/S
Brown ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Alex
Hidden 22/Feb/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/03 AltLd O/S
Jon Pilling ?/Feb/03 2nd O/S

AMAZING CLIMB Benighted on Pitch 4

with steve prescott
andy wa ??/2003 AltLd
with matt dalby
Leo Woodhead ??/2003 2nd dog

What an awesome climb. It was one of the very first outdoor climbs I ever did! My brother took me on it and he lead it! Can't wait to go back now I am more experienced!

with Barney Woodhead
Simonfarfaraway ??/2003 AltLd

as good as the hype

with Steve Hastings
IanMulvany ??/2003 AltLd O/S
with Conor Burns
akhughes ??/2003 AltLd
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd
Kerm ??/2003 AltLd
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2003 -
Gus 15/Sep/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/02 2nd O/S
Rog Wilko ?/Sep/02 Lead

Did the high tide start.

with Debbie Wilkinson
Hidden 19/Aug/02 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/02 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
tompercy ?/Apr/02 AltLd
with Freya
Dave Bond ??/2002 Lead
with Adrian Whitehall
brockers ??/2002 AltLd O/S
with CarlZ
jgordon75 ??/2002 Lead O/S
chrishedgehog ??/2002 AltLd O/S
with Dan Bailey
Billg ??/2002 AltLd
with Megan Beaumont
PaulTanton ?/Nov/01 AltLd O/S
Northen Vince 18/Oct/01 AltLd O/S
with James
Martin Bennett 15/Jul/01 -
with Terry Rob
Trobbo 15/Jul/01 AltLd
with martin bennett
CrashMat Rob 14/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Paz ?/May/01 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2001 -
rockofades ??/2001 Lead rpt
with DB
geoff b 14/Aug/00 Lead

60m rope gets you to the zawn bottom & the base of the route. Brilliant climbing on a lovely sunny day. Fabulous.

with Aussie Matt
DavidR 25/Jul/00 -
with John Marston
Hidden 22/Jul/00 AltLd O/S
richsmithinbristol ?/Jul/00 AltLd O/S

Perfect conditions. Returned to the Pass to climb Left Wall and it chucked it down!

with Rob Sutton
Mark Riley ?/Jun/00 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Greenall
Laramadness ?/May/00 AltLd O/S
with RF
Alastair Hudson 01/Jan/00 Lead O/S
with Ian McNicoll
alan moore ??/2000 -

Cold autumn morning, early start to beat the crowds.

RossG123 ??/2000 AltLd
Normunds ??/2000 2nd
alpinismo.uk ??/2000 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
RossG ??/2000 -
VPJB ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 AltLd O/S
RussB ??/2000 AltLd O/S

Had to escape up HVS at end of 2nd pitch as weather crapped out.

with Alex H
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Phil T
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Alastair Hudson ??/2000 AltLd O/S

Storm Approaching...

with Ian McNicoll
Nettle 06/Oct/99 AltLd O/S

This was Snowy's 'must do' route at Gogarth, so we cracked that in the morning. Absolutely awesome, great, acheivable climbing in fabulous positions. (Approx date).

with Snowy Snowden
Nettle 06/Oct/99 AltLd O/S

This was Snowy's 'must do' route at Gogarth, so we cracked that in the morning. Absolutely awesome, great, acheivable climbing in fabulous positions. (Approx date).

with Snowy Snowden
Phil West 31/Jul/99 AltLd O/S

Did high tide version by abbing to the notch. I led pitches 1 and 3 (crux).

with Steve Wild
cem 26/Jun/99 AltLd O/S
with Neville Bonham
RobSimmo 01/Jun/99 AltLd O/S

Awesome! Came back to do this after looking at it and running away about 3 months before!

kato'sdad 01/Jun/99 AltLd
skygodley 30/May/99 Lead O/S
with Julia Bodle
Hidden 16/May/99 AltLd O/S
Ian JL 01/Apr/99 Lead O/S
with Duncan Henderson
jfmchivall ?/Apr/99 AltLd O/S
Chad123 ??/1999 AltLd O/S


with Greg
dickypips ??/1999 AltLd O/S

john led last pitch

with john richards
Chris Murray ?/Aug/98 AltLd O/S


with Richard Bower
Darragh ?/Aug/98 Lead

Colm enjoyed a satisfying view of the ferry he was supposed to travel home on.

with Colm
Hidden ?/Jun/98 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/98 AltLd
IanGilbertJones 02/May/98 AltLd O/S
Rock Fairy ?/May/98 2nd

I started to lead after seconding this :)

with Carl
petekeron ?/May/98 2nd O/S


with Alex Binks
nickdonohue 14/Feb/98 AltLd

very windy, wet and cold. Classic! Superb!

with Mark McCarthy
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Just Another Dave ??/1998 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers ??/1998 AltLd O/S
with Dave Oldacres
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
VisionSet ??/1998 Solo rpt
Hidden 14/Dec/97 AltLd
Ratfeeder 20/Jul/97 AltLd rpt

low tide version. Led pitches 1 & 3

with Katka, Phil
Hidden 12/Jul/97 2nd
craig h 05/Jul/97 AltLd O/S
with Janet Hannah
Chris Ellis 04/Jul/97 AltLd
with Louise Pellett
cornishben ?/Jul/97 AltLd O/S
with Andy Connor
Ratfeeder 30/Apr/97 AltLd O/S

Low tide version. Led pitches 2 & 4

with Phil
Paul Boardman ??/1997 AltLd O/S
with Iain Boardman
datoon ??/1997 AltLd O/S
with Richard Toon
Phill Mitch ??/1997 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27/Sep/96 AltLd

In the middle of the night with headtorches - fun!

with Jamie Fisher, Muir Morton
Tim Bateman 17/Aug/96 AltLd
with Paul McMahon
Brian Wilderspin 07/Jul/96 AltLd
Dave Rumney 07/Jul/96 AltLd
Steve Neads 23/Jun/96 2nd O/S
with Martin, Ed R
Hidden ?/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
alkira ??/1996 -
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
WB ??/1996 AltLd O/S
with GuyM
GuyM ??/1996 AltLd
with WB
robtrooper ??/1996 Lead
Hidden 20/Oct/95 Lead
sdawson1 09/Aug/95 2nd rpt

Classic, including my luminous leggings and tea cosy clava !

with JB
Colin Edwards ?/Jul/95 Lead
with Steve Cox
colin milton 06/Jun/95 AltLd O/S

missed out p1 due to heavy seas.

with eric milton
Graham Booth ?/Jun/95 AltLd O/S
lost.arrow 26/May/95 AltLd
with Julie Bond
Cowflinger ?/May/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/95 AltLd
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
SB_NWUK_99 ??/1995 AltLd

Climbed in the 1990s. A memorable place to climb in.

Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
NeilGriffiths 27/Nov/94 -
with Paul Tucker
UKB Shark ?/Nov/94 AltLd
Mathias Willerup ?/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
with Fred Willerup
andyblain ?/Jun/94 Lead O/S
Mickdenali ??/1994 -
with Keith Biddle
Colin Edwards ??/1994 -
with Steve Cox
whispering nic ?/Aug/93 AltLd
with Kat
Okecroak 31/Jul/93 AltLd
with M Mercy
Okecroak 31/Jul/93 AltLd
with M Mercy
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 19/Jun/93 AltLd rpt
with Andy Huntington
frost ?/May/93 AltLd
Hidden 04/Apr/93 AltLd
Colin McKerrell ??/1993 -
pete johnson 10/Oct/92 AltLd O/S
with Pete Swanson
malc 10/Aug/92 AltLd
with N Boyd
kylo-342 ?/Aug/92 AltLd
with Jason M
Hidden ?/Jul/92 AltLd
Grezza ?/Jun/92 Lead O/S
with Mick RIP
mattnuttall ?/Jun/92 AltLd O/S


with Alan Holden
auld al 23/May/92 AltLd O/S
pingora 23/May/92 Lead O/S
with auld al
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/May/92 AltLd
with Paul Kallmes
Hidden 19/Apr/92 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 01/Mar/92 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Ken lindsay ??/1992 AltLd O/S

It’s the name and the iconic photograph that make this a must do.Missed the first pitch.Great positions .

crossleysm ??/1992 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
steve taylor ??/1992 AltLd O/S

Simply awesome climbing and positions for the grade.

with steve kerr
biggianthead 15/Sep/91 -
with HT
orangesmartie61 25/Aug/91 AltLd
with Diana Crook
Hidden ?/Aug/91 Lead
NickJH ?/Aug/91 AltLd O/S
with D Picker
Hidden 14/Jun/91 AltLd
Mick King 25/May/91 AltLd O/S

Lead p2

with Pete Hankinson
nai ??/1991 AltLd
Gudge ??/1991 AltLd O/S
with MUMC
prcleary ??/1991 -
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd
Hidden ??/1991 Lead O/S
brianrunner ?/Sep/90 2nd

climbed after a hail shower. superb place and hope to return

with roger
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 22/Aug/90 AltLd O/S
with John Buckley
tlr 18/Aug/90 AltLd
with Fin
sadams ?/Jul/90 Lead
with Mark Bonham
Hidden 30/Jun/90 2nd O/S
conradallen 11/Jun/90 Lead
Hidden 03/May/90 2nd
Hidden 24/Apr/90 AltLd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 10/Apr/90 AltLd
Dave Musgrove 10/Apr/90 AltLd rpt
daviesxxx ??/1990 -
richiebongo ??/1990 Lead O/S

Climbed at least two or three times over the years.

with Nick Smith
philhilo ??/1990 -
Darron ??/1990 -
with Jez
philhilo ??/1990 -
Nick Rundall ??/1990 Lead O/S
Pete_Frost ??/1990 AltLd O/S
with George Manley
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 Lead
nigehughes ?/Sep/89 AltLd
with Malcolm Boater
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/89 -
BigHairyIan 20/Jun/89 Lead O/S
with Alan Lilley (Thug)
Greg Cunningham 01/Jun/89 Lead
michael burrows 28/May/89 AltLd O/S
with pete roberts
John HW ??/1989 Lead

Date lost in the mists of time but climbed before Ben born.

with Julie
richparry ??/1989 -
pauldrew ??/1989 AltLd

OUMC meet

Gambit ??/1989 Lead O/S
with barney1
phardman 19/Jun/88 Lead O/S
with John Gratton
goi.ashmore 15/Jun/88 2nd O/S
with Dave Forster
Budge ?/Jun/88 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
Hidden 19/Mar/88 AltLd
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
Tony Buckley ?/Nov/87 AltLd

Had it to ourselves on a grey November Saturday. Marvellous! Started from the notch as the tide was in. Nothing on the climb seemed as un-nerving as the scramble down the gully at the start.

with Richard Brockman
Hidden 24/Oct/87 -
Ched 17/Sep/87 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden 16/Aug/87 2nd
wynaptomos ?/Jul/87 Solo O/S
eroica64 11/Jun/86 Lead

Ah. A blissful excursion into paradise. Ed Ward-Drummond masterpiece.

with John Graeme
Sean Kelly ?/Jun/86 -

Alt leads but have repeated the climb twice since.

with Bob Anderson
John Marsland 09/Mar/86 AltLd
with Tony Rex and Mike Searle
keefe ??/1986 -
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 29/Sep/85 AltLd
steveb2006 17/Aug/85 AltLd

First Gogarth route. High tide start

with Max Rock
Richard Weller 11/Jul/85 AltLd
with john sanders
beaumap 06/Jun/85 Lead
with Bernie Green
geoff b ?/May/85 Lead

An excellent route but got hypothermic as Martin struggled to recover all the gear on the last pitch (I might add that he did!).

with Cookie
Hidden 02/Mar/85 AltLd
andy gittins ??/1985 -
mark mcgowan01 ??/1985 -
Gezzer ??/1985 -
Hidden ?/Sep/84 AltLd O/S
MikeYouCanClimb 27/May/84 Lead O/S
with Adam
Gezzer ??/1984 Lead O/S
with Derek Shaw
Gezzer ??/1984 Lead O/S
with Ron Inverarity
Gezzer ??/1984 Lead O/S
with Emily Cooper
Lone Rider ??/1984 AltLd
with John Christie
Roy Stuart ??/1984 AltLd O/S
with Billy Bones
Hammy 14/May/83 AltLd
with Ian Barker
Hidden ?/Apr/83 -
nigehughes ?/Apr/83 AltLd
with Alec Pirrie
Melok ??/1983 2nd


Robmwatt ??/1983 -
Andy Fielding 26/Aug/82 AltLd
with Mike Gilbert
Nigel Coe 13/Jun/82 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
AlanLittle ?/Jun/82 AltLd
with Dave Hayward
Bob 30/May/82 AltLd O/S
with M. Lynch
Steve Clegg 20/Feb/82 -
with Stu C
nniff ??/1982 -
Davy Gunn ??/1982 -
steveboote ??/1982 Lead

With Liz Perriolet

charlesmfrench 07/Nov/81 AltLd O/S


with Ian Milne
Neil McA 18/Jul/81 AltLd
with Wa, Flog
babymoac 12/Jul/81 Lead
with Paul R
Andy Chubb 27/Jun/81 AltLd
with Geoff Barker
Hidden 09/Apr/81 AltLd
Hidden ?/Apr/81 Lead O/S
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 AltLd
Andy Fielding 31/Jul/80 AltLd
with Tom Benson
TonyF ?/Jun/80 Lead O/S
with Tony Cox
mike bridges 19/Apr/80 AltLd O/S

Did in the afternoon after doing Cenotaph Corner in the morning.I led pitches 2&4. After abbing and pulling the ropes down,it suddenly hits you that this is the easiest route hereabouts and you`re going to need a cool head!Brilliant route and such a buzz to climb, got bad rope drag on final top out!

with KRB
KRB 19/Apr/80 AltLd O/S

Absolute classic done in beautiful evening sunshine after doing Cenotaph Corner in the dull morning. One of the most memorable climbing days I've had. Brilliant.

with Mike Bridges
Nigel Coe 22/Mar/80 -
with Frank Farrell
Mike Owen 10/Feb/80 AltLd rpt
with Phil Ralph
Ian Jones ??/1980 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1980 -
robinsi197 ??/1980 AltLd
with Barbara
clanger ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
PaulHermes ??/1980 -
Hidden ?/Nov/79 Lead
Hidden 11/Aug/79 AltLd O/S
migs493 08/Jul/79 Lead O/S
Brian Wilderspin 03/Apr/79 AltLd

Starting from seal level

with Jim Gilchrist
dtalbot ??/1979 AltLd
with Rory O'Conor
duncan ?/Nov/78 AltLd O/S
rogerskews 23/Oct/78 AltLd

Stolen from an incoming storm early Monday morning, and supposed to be at work!

with Keith Jenkins
mikej 15/Sep/78 AltLd
with Mike Byles
neilh ?/Aug/78 Lead
with unknown american
Brian Wilderspin ?/Jun/78 AltLd

Traversed in

Hidden 13/May/78 AltLd
Andy Nicholson ?/May/78 AltLd O/S
with Steve Brodie
Andy Say ??/1978 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/1978 AltLd
with Pete Heys, Little Dennis
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Chris Terrey 22/Oct/77 Lead
with Roger Wilson
Mark Kemball 17/Aug/77 Lead
with Sarah Bridge, George Mumford
Hidden 03/Aug/77 AltLd O/S
Ken Taylor 10/Jul/77 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
jmr ?/Mar/77 AltLd
uphillnow ??/1977 AltLd

Had seconded the route on a very cold day just after it was put up with Nigel Helliwell (Feb 1969?)Nigel pulled a hold off whilst on the last pitch, just before the moves up - dropped some distance.

with Al Bennett
Hidden 02/Jul/76 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/76 2nd
Steve Lewis 18/Apr/76 Lead
with Steve Bonus
Hidden 18/Apr/76 AltLd
Hidden 16/Apr/76 Lead
Rob Davies 01/Apr/76 AltLd

Started from small ledge 50' above sea. At end of day Charlie ran out of fuel - had to help push car back to Holyhead!

with Charlie Heard (CUMC)
Derek Ryden ?/Apr/76 AltLd O/S
with Martin Smith
D Tempest ?/Jan/76 Lead

Uni' years

cenotaphcorner ??/1976 AltLd O/S
with Paul Ingham
Marcus ??/1976 -
with Roger Stokes
tapley 12/Oct/75 AltLd
with John Sumner
RichardMc 18/Sep/75 Lead
with Betty Seifert
RichardMc 17/May/75 AltLd
with Dave Langmead
Bolt Phobia 16/Apr/75 2nd
with Dave Williams
Hidden ?/Apr/75 AltLd
Derek Furze ??/1975 Lead
with Leigh Harrison
Mike Owen ??/1975 AltLd O/S

We were both gripped at the time. Either in autumn 75 or spring 76.

with John Roberts
Falko 11/Sep/74 Lead O/S

We dispensed with three aid pegs which were then in current use. Roger did well.

with Roger Edwards
oyster1283 ?/Aug/74 2nd O/S

I did this climb early in my career on a warm summer Sunday after doing White Slab the day before. It lived up to its name. A fabulous climb.

johno072 ?/Jul/74 Lead
Hidden ??/1974 AltLd
Martin Bennett 28/May/73 -
with JD
Dave Musgrove 28/May/73 AltLd
with Mike Butler
pneame ?/May/73 AltLd O/S
with Bill Douglas
greenbuoy 08/Aug/70 2nd

An ascent on a beautiful sunny day;VERY impressed by the final pitch.

mikej 31/Mar/70 AltLd

On an earlier visit to Wen Zawn I had seen a leader pull a block out of the finishing chimney, which put me off this route for a while.

with Pete Boardman
mikej 28/Mar/70 AltLd dnf

Abseiled in but too stormy and had to retreat.

with Pete Boardman
Tony Holdsworth 01/Jan/70 -
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High 5a
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Votes cast 323
Votes cast 318
Style of ascent
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