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Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. You can show your support in one of two ways; both come with rewards, and one includes discounted products from Rockfax.

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35m. An exciting direct version which follows the arête in its entirety. Climb up the initial groove, but then continue directly up the hanging groove above on good holds and reasonable gear. Stay on the arête until you can reach the peg on 'Medicine Man'. Climb the arête above the peg (and other gear) all the way to the summit - a thrilling and tricky finale.

L Roberts, P Roberts Jul/2013

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Misha u 17 Sep, 2019 Lead O/S A lot harder than it looks! Decent run out in the middle above a collection of so-so cams - wouldn’t want to drop it. Decent E3 5c to the crux. Good gear down and right from the crux and a so-so cam and decaying peg just below. The crux is short lived easy 6a but technical and took me a few goes to figure out. Good route.
A lot harder than it looks! Decent run out in the middle above a collection of so-so cams - wouldn’t want to drop it. Decent E3 5c to the crux. Good gear down and right from the crux and a so-so cam and decaying peg just below. The crux is short lived easy 6a but technical and took me a few goes to figure out. Good route.
Hidden 17 Sep, 2019 2nd O/S
Dave Almond 17 Aug, 2019 Lead O/S Really enjoyed this one.
with Tjebbe Zwart
Really enjoyed this one.
with Tjebbe Zwart
Cheeks 28 Jul, 2019 2nd struggled moving on to the arete for the crux, but felt ok on the rest. be a few yrs before I maybe ready to lead this though.
struggled moving on to the arete for the crux, but felt ok on the rest. be a few yrs before I maybe ready to lead this though.
GeoffG 23 Jul, 2019 -
DeaNomNom 22 Jun, 2019 2nd β
BC 22 Jun, 2019 Lead Couldn't remember anything. Felt like onsight.. will take a retro flash
Couldn't remember anything. Felt like onsight.. will take a retro flash
BC 24 May, 2019 2nd
Hidden 24 May, 2019 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 May, 2019 Lead O/S
Richard Kendrick 5 May, 2019 Lead O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH u 4 May, 2019 Lead β On Anna's gear at the end of the day
with Anna G
On Anna's gear at the end of the day
with Anna G
Adam Booth 4 May, 2019 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 May, 2019 Lead O/S
Ramon Marin u 4 May, 2019 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 4 May, 2019 2nd β
Alex Mason 28 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S Climbed in sub zero conditions. Ice falls opposite all the way to sea level. Brrrr! Some good gear and moves. Some dodgy rock and escapable sections. Half a ⭐️
with George Ullrich
Climbed in sub zero conditions. Ice falls opposite all the way to sea level. Brrrr! Some good gear and moves. Some dodgy rock and escapable sections. Half a ⭐️
with George Ullrich
Steve Long ??, 2018 -
Steve Long ??, 2018 -
Hidden 14 May, 2017 Lead O/S
wi11 3 May, 2016 Lead O/S Pokey
Pokey
Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 6
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Big Groove Direct

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)