No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag) have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!
The land above the crag is now designated open access land.
Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid.
There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully.
Rockfax Description
A great route that has only just enough gear. Start near the base of an open corner and climb up the left wall to a good ledge at 6m. Continue over the left side of a bulge to another rest on a small sloping ledge a few metres higher. Move up and then right into a groove, and follow this to the top. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E2 ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Bold Tradprenticeship
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Graeme Hammond | 19 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: At the start of the route the Ground Up Definative guide and Rockfax are completely different. Not sure which is the true line but the Ground Up start up the pocketed wall to reach the right side of the buldge/sloping shelf, climbing over this and slightly left to gain the main groove seems to climb better rock and be worn like it had been done for years. Probably a case of the line being copied out of the ground up select guide which is the same as the Rockfax but the description is as per the definitive. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: At the start of the route the Ground Up Definative guide and Rockfax are completely different. Not sure which is the true line but the Ground Up start up the pocketed wall to reach the right side of the buldge/sloping shelf, climbing over this and slightly left to gain the main groove seems to climb better rock and be worn like it had been done for years. Probably a case of the line being copied out of the ground up select guide which is the same as the Rockfax but the description is as per the definitive. |
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C Witter | 6 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: It seems there are quite a few variations possible on the first section of this route. Slightly right of the normal start, it is possible to climb (with quality moves and at about stiff 5b) a steep wall on pockets via a few "spike-like" holds to the grassy ledge and another steep move from the grassy ledge over a bulge to mantle onto a sloping ledge just below and right of the sloping ledge mentioned in the guide. Bold and exciting, definitely E2, maybe 5c. | ||
Show beta
βeta: It seems there are quite a few variations possible on the first section of this route. Slightly right of the normal start, it is possible to climb (with quality moves and at about stiff 5b) a steep wall on pockets via a few "spike-like" holds to the grassy ledge and another steep move from the grassy ledge over a bulge to mantle onto a sloping ledge just below and right of the sloping ledge mentioned in the guide. Bold and exciting, definitely E2, maybe 5c. |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)