UKC

Rockfax Description
A great route that has only just enough gear. Start near the base of an open corner and climb up the left wall to a good ledge at 6m. Continue over the left side of a bulge to another rest on a small sloping ledge a few metres higher. Move up and then right into a groove, and follow this to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E2 ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Bold Tradprenticeship

Feedback

User Date Notes
Graeme Hammond 19 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: At the start of the route the Ground Up Definative guide and Rockfax are completely different. Not sure which is the true line but the Ground Up start up the pocketed wall to reach the right side of the buldge/sloping shelf, climbing over this and slightly left to gain the main groove seems to climb better rock and be worn like it had been done for years. Probably a case of the line being copied out of the ground up select guide which is the same as the Rockfax but the description is as per the definitive.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: At the start of the route the Ground Up Definative guide and Rockfax are completely different. Not sure which is the true line but the Ground Up start up the pocketed wall to reach the right side of the buldge/sloping shelf, climbing over this and slightly left to gain the main groove seems to climb better rock and be worn like it had been done for years. Probably a case of the line being copied out of the ground up select guide which is the same as the Rockfax but the description is as per the definitive.
C Witter 6 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: It seems there are quite a few variations possible on the first section of this route. Slightly right of the normal start, it is possible to climb (with quality moves and at about stiff 5b) a steep wall on pockets via a few "spike-like" holds to the grassy ledge and another steep move from the grassy ledge over a bulge to mantle onto a sloping ledge just below and right of the sloping ledge mentioned in the guide. Bold and exciting, definitely E2, maybe 5c.
Show beta
βeta: It seems there are quite a few variations possible on the first section of this route. Slightly right of the normal start, it is possible to climb (with quality moves and at about stiff 5b) a steep wall on pockets via a few "spike-like" holds to the grassy ledge and another steep move from the grassy ledge over a bulge to mantle onto a sloping ledge just below and right of the sloping ledge mentioned in the guide. Bold and exciting, definitely E2, maybe 5c.

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Guidebooks for Rhoscolyn

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 100
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 98
Votes cast 95
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mousetrap

Grade: E2 5a ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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