UKC

Rockfax Description
Ridiculously hard and sustained. It can be done in one long pitch but a belay is advised to ease rope drag. Start in the back of the zawn behind a large fallen block, near the base of a diagonal crack as for The Viper.
1) 5b, 12m. Follow Centrefold to below the groove. Move right to a ledge system and a belay on the ledge just below where the Dreams and Screams crack gets really steep.
2) 6a, 40m. Traverse right then head up to a prominent undercut and onto a small ledge. Move right and up into a shallow groove which leads to better holds. Follow jugs rightwards to gain the flying arete. Ignore the pump and race up the arete (before your arms give out) to a slabby finish.
FA J.Moran, P.Williams 10.5.1984 © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , James' 2015 Summer. , Ultimate E5 ticklist

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hunger

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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