No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag) have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!
The land above the crag is now designated open access land.
Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid.
There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully.
Rockfax Description
Start at the corner right of the Icarus flake.
1) 5a, 20m. Climb the corner to a ledge on the right. Head left and then back right awkwardly to the red ramp. Follow this to belay on Icarus.
2) 5b, 12m The right arete of Icarus is a fine and exposed finale. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A direct version of Icarus start in the obvious corner right f the Icarus Flake.
P1. 5a 22m corner - ledge system -left then right to narrow red ramp.
P2. 5a 12m climb the right arĂȘte of Icarus pitch 2.
Better route description in the new Gogarth South guide.
Ian Lloyd-Jones & Clive Stephenson 1990.
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)