UKC

Restricted Access

No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag)  have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!

The land above the crag is now designated open access land.

Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid. 

There is a nest of guls on Truant, please inspect before committing to the route and avoid disturbance.

There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully. 

Rockfax Description
The right arete of the wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
see Gogarth South 2015

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jamdahll 25 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: A HS with small gear? Not at all scary
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A HS with small gear? Not at all scary
Stu_Paton 15 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure what the gogarth south guidebook is on about, VS 4c and steady at that. Loads of gear and in no way small or fiddly. Nice route irrespective of grade
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not sure what the gogarth south guidebook is on about, VS 4c and steady at that. Loads of gear and in no way small or fiddly. Nice route irrespective of grade
Butel 20 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Super soft. VS at most.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Super soft. VS at most.
StuLade 1 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: HVS 4c at most, softer than some of it's HVS neighbors and not as bold.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: HVS 4c at most, softer than some of it's HVS neighbors and not as bold.

Logged Ascents

143 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Rhoscolyn

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 18 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 33
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Scavenger

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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