UKC

Restricted Access

No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag)  have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!

The land above the crag is now designated open access land.

Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid. 

There is a nest of guls on Truant, please inspect before committing to the route and avoid disturbance.

There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully. 

Rockfax Description
A very strenuous and spectacular route up the edge of the fin. Climb a slim groove then move right onto an arete and a rest on Godzilla. Launch out and leftwards up the incredibly steep wall to gain a good slot. Finish up the front of the fin. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , James' 2015 Summer.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Ground Up
DNF
Flashed (β)
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Route of Interest
Ludwig

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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