UKC

Restricted Access

No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag)  have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!

The land above the crag is now designated open access land.

Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid. 

There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully. 

Rockfax Description
Start up the groove/chimney/off-width formed by the left side of the fin. Follow this until above the off-width where a weakness leads rightwards onto a small ledge on the arete of the fin. Pull up the arete as for The Absconder's Finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Good E4s , James' 2015 Summer. , Ultimate E4 ticklist

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Logged Ascents

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High E5
Mid E5
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 9
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Trunk Line

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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