UKC

30m.

Rockfax Description
Another great route which is overshadowed by The Sun (if such a concept is possible). The top pitch is a belter.
1) 5c, 15m. Start as for Warpath, and follow it until you are established on the hourglass. Follow this for a few more metres until you are stood on good holds. Make a move down and left into a groove and climb this to a bulge. Exciting moves through the bulge gain a good ledge with a belay towards its back to the left of the crack of the second pitch.
2) 5c, 15m. Move into the crack and follow it to a step right to the continuation and follow it to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Can be climbed as an excellent single pitch.
1) 5c, 30m. Start as for Warpath, and follow it until you are established on the red hourglass. Pull steeply into the shallow white groove on jugs and climb this to a bulge. Exciting moves through the bulge gain a good ledge. Move into the obvious thin crack and follow it, with a step right (crux) to the continuation and follow it to the top.

Featured in Channel 4 programme Wondrous Wales, Season 2, Episode 1: https://www.channel4.com/programmes/wondrous-wales/on-demand/71721-004

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales E3's , James' 2015 Summer. , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Preparation for the Resurrection

Feedback

User Date Notes
LucaC 3 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Defo better than The Sun
βeta?
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βeta: Defo better than The Sun
George_Surf 11 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Well worth starting off the beach directly under the peg. Skirt the grass on the left. Place a big wire right of the corner then head up and left on big flakes. More good wires then you hit big jugs in the break, just left of the peg. Don’t bother with the death grass approach!
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βeta: Well worth starting off the beach directly under the peg. Skirt the grass on the left. Place a big wire right of the corner then head up and left on big flakes. More good wires then you hit big jugs in the break, just left of the peg. Don’t bother with the death grass approach!
Keith_Scarlett 1 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I don't know why you'd do it in 2 pitches, no issues with rope drag or length when done in 1 pitch and you can stretch out, relax at the pitch 1 belay if you do want a breather before getting into the headwall.
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βeta: I don't know why you'd do it in 2 pitches, no issues with rope drag or length when done in 1 pitch and you can stretch out, relax at the pitch 1 belay if you do want a breather before getting into the headwall.
joeramsay 30 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Better than the sun. Shitty scramble to the little queenie belay can be avoided by starting from a little ledge on the bands of rock directly below the hourglass, might even make for a better pitch anyway
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Better than the sun. Shitty scramble to the little queenie belay can be avoided by starting from a little ledge on the bands of rock directly below the hourglass, might even make for a better pitch anyway
Simon King 8 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Do it as a single pitch; brilliant and then worth 3*s?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Do it as a single pitch; brilliant and then worth 3*s?
Mark Warnett Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Andy led P1. I was spooked on this for some reason, but once committed into the headwall crack it was fine, with good gear, manageable pump and brilliant position. Very satisfying climbing too. Finished it off with a walk down the headland, then great night in the pub.
Show beta
βeta: Andy led P1. I was spooked on this for some reason, but once committed into the headwall crack it was fine, with good gear, manageable pump and brilliant position. Very satisfying climbing too. Finished it off with a walk down the headland, then great night in the pub.

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 79
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 75
Votes cast 71
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Centrefold

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Rhoscolyn)

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