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14m.

Rockfax Description
The slab has thin unprotected moves to pass the overlap. It is often climbed with a side runner (E1 to HVS depending where you put it). Arguments about the grade rage on - just to clarify, it is worth E3 for an onsight ascent without a side runner. Often dirty from the top-roping/abseiling hordes' muddy boots. © Rockfax

FA. Ian Johnson 1977.

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User Date Notes
mb_manchester 20 Sep Show βeta
βeta: tried it on top-rope first. second go on lead - although not sure what the point of a rope is here, to be honest. falling/sliding off the upper section guarantees decking. that said, the friction is great and calm head gets you all the way to the top.
βeta?
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βeta: tried it on top-rope first. second go on lead - although not sure what the point of a rope is here, to be honest. falling/sliding off the upper section guarantees decking. that said, the friction is great and calm head gets you all the way to the top.
Fiend 8 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Shut up simes. If you think that top-roping this shouldn't be discouraged then you might as well give up climbing.
βeta?
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βeta: Shut up simes. If you think that top-roping this shouldn't be discouraged then you might as well give up climbing.
simes303 8 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: "Anyone who top-ropes it should not be allowed to comment on this. Nor on any other climbing topic. A sound beating may also be of benefit." people who talk crap like that shouldnt be allowed to post comments. and should definately suffer a sound beating.
βeta?
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βeta: "Anyone who top-ropes it should not be allowed to comment on this. Nor on any other climbing topic. A sound beating may also be of benefit." people who talk crap like that shouldnt be allowed to post comments. and should definately suffer a sound beating.
Steve Banham 18 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: An E2 5b, with the side runner low in the crack to the left. E1 5c implies a safe route, which it isn't. Potential to face-plant the ground/swing into something hard from the final moves even with the low side runner.
βeta?
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βeta: An E2 5b, with the side runner low in the crack to the left. E1 5c implies a safe route, which it isn't. Potential to face-plant the ground/swing into something hard from the final moves even with the low side runner.
Andrew Barker 9 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great route! Onsighted it and felt quite nervous on the crux moves even though the gear wasn't too far below. Above that it eases and becomes enjoyable. The grade? Hmmm, before I did it I thought it would be E3, now I'd say E4 cos it makes me sound better! But seriously, I'm not sure - 4 Pebble Slab is E3 5c but I trusted the gear on it far less than on Chalkstorm. I'd say soft E4.
βeta?
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βeta: Great route! Onsighted it and felt quite nervous on the crux moves even though the gear wasn't too far below. Above that it eases and becomes enjoyable. The grade? Hmmm, before I did it I thought it would be E3, now I'd say E4 cos it makes me sound better! But seriously, I'm not sure - 4 Pebble Slab is E3 5c but I trusted the gear on it far less than on Chalkstorm. I'd say soft E4.
Sam Doyle 7 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: An excellent route with nice moves. Led it with a high side runner on the left - still felt harder than HVS. Similar to Three Pebble Slab in everything including the controversy over the grade. Probably E1/E2 with a siderunner and E3/E4 without. Definetly 5c at times.
βeta?
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βeta: An excellent route with nice moves. Led it with a high side runner on the left - still felt harder than HVS. Similar to Three Pebble Slab in everything including the controversy over the grade. Probably E1/E2 with a siderunner and E3/E4 without. Definetly 5c at times.
ial103 17 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: hello yes, was leading this the other day, had just got above the crux and was feeling slightly as though i might mess myself when all of a sudden a hoard of small children with an instructor appeared and started watching, this was all well and good till the instructor started loudly telling the kids about how my gear was so low down and what would happen if i fell off...i really appriciated it at the time and definitly didnt want to shout abuse at him... great route though :D
βeta?
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βeta: hello yes, was leading this the other day, had just got above the crux and was feeling slightly as though i might mess myself when all of a sudden a hoard of small children with an instructor appeared and started watching, this was all well and good till the instructor started loudly telling the kids about how my gear was so low down and what would happen if i fell off...i really appriciated it at the time and definitly didnt want to shout abuse at him... great route though :D
Sean_J 15 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Found this easier and less scary than Elegy; surely Chalkstorm is only E2, even for an onsight? The top slab is OK if the conditions are good; if you can get up to the groove OK then you'll be fine on the top slab. I reckon it's only E2. While i'm at it, I also reckon side runners don't make it that much easier, unless they're so high up that you're effectively on top-rope.
βeta?
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βeta: Found this easier and less scary than Elegy; surely Chalkstorm is only E2, even for an onsight? The top slab is OK if the conditions are good; if you can get up to the groove OK then you'll be fine on the top slab. I reckon it's only E2. While i'm at it, I also reckon side runners don't make it that much easier, unless they're so high up that you're effectively on top-rope.
Ropeboy 2 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Steady E4 if lead with runners in the break below the overlap solid E4 for the solo, on-sight for both ways obviously.
βeta?
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βeta: Steady E4 if lead with runners in the break below the overlap solid E4 for the solo, on-sight for both ways obviously.
Iggy_B 22 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It's good climbing wherever you put the runners, as long as you don't top rope it as I have seen many SPA group leaders doing, seemed to have the top rope hanging below the crux...
βeta?
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βeta: It's good climbing wherever you put the runners, as long as you don't top rope it as I have seen many SPA group leaders doing, seemed to have the top rope hanging below the crux...
Duncan I 4 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Standing at the break and placing a side-runner (or two) at full stretch, it's no more dangerous than, say, Impossible Slab. I'd give it E2 5c for an on-sight. The slab is quite sustained for a few moves so soft E4 is probably right if you just use the break for a runner.
βeta?
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βeta: Standing at the break and placing a side-runner (or two) at full stretch, it's no more dangerous than, say, Impossible Slab. I'd give it E2 5c for an on-sight. The slab is quite sustained for a few moves so soft E4 is probably right if you just use the break for a runner.
Andy Hobson 8 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Soft E4 for an onsight. I stacked a load of gear in the crack at the break which makes the crux move reasonably safe (you probably won't deck). Runners in the cracky flakey thing are rubbish, if you think you'll fall off the next bit get a fast belayer. The rest is superb 5b friction climbing, quite intense and hugely enjoyable (in retrospect). If you do it when it's cold it would be impossible to fall off without jumping, the friction is awesome!
βeta?
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βeta: Soft E4 for an onsight. I stacked a load of gear in the crack at the break which makes the crux move reasonably safe (you probably won't deck). Runners in the cracky flakey thing are rubbish, if you think you'll fall off the next bit get a fast belayer. The rest is superb 5b friction climbing, quite intense and hugely enjoyable (in retrospect). If you do it when it's cold it would be impossible to fall off without jumping, the friction is awesome!
FedUp 19 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I got a good RP in at the overlap. I believe it's now an alien that fits better. Deffo 5c but sill E4 without the side runners as this single piece is your one and only and it's a thin precarious route. Surely it's safer to slightly over grade than sandbag someone who gets hurt? It's fine if you toprope to oblivion but aren't we supposed to be grading for an on sight lead. E4 5c.
βeta?
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βeta: I got a good RP in at the overlap. I believe it's now an alien that fits better. Deffo 5c but sill E4 without the side runners as this single piece is your one and only and it's a thin precarious route. Surely it's safer to slightly over grade than sandbag someone who gets hurt? It's fine if you toprope to oblivion but aren't we supposed to be grading for an on sight lead. E4 5c.
Richard Bradley 26 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Did it on top rope (sorry). Found the overlap crux hard to sus, but it's a superb route. Obviously not allowed to comment on the grade!
βeta?
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βeta: Did it on top rope (sorry). Found the overlap crux hard to sus, but it's a superb route. Obviously not allowed to comment on the grade!
JR 16 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I onsighted it and would say E4 for the onsight, though low in the grade. Possibly hard E3. Once done on toprope probably about E1.
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βeta: I onsighted it and would say E4 for the onsight, though low in the grade. Possibly hard E3. Once done on toprope probably about E1.
Paz 14 Oct, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Agreed. It feels like E4 when you're doing it, afterwards obviously it felt easier. Also agree that Elegy is both E2 and harder.
βeta?
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βeta: Agreed. It feels like E4 when you're doing it, afterwards obviously it felt easier. Also agree that Elegy is both E2 and harder.
EarlyBird 16 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: It's not necessarily death if you fall...mate of mine slid the entire length of the climb to the accompanying smell of burning rubber, only damage he received was a "waxed" chest courtesy of the midpoint bulge.
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βeta: It's not necessarily death if you fall...mate of mine slid the entire length of the climb to the accompanying smell of burning rubber, only damage he received was a "waxed" chest courtesy of the midpoint bulge.
Chris the Tall 15 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Excellant route but only E3 - you have gear by your feet for the 5c move and above that its "only" 5b. E1/2 with a side runner - depending on where you place it
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βeta: Excellant route but only E3 - you have gear by your feet for the 5c move and above that its "only" 5b. E1/2 with a side runner - depending on where you place it
Alex "wurzel" Thurgood 26 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant slab climb. When I did it (a long time ago) it was only E2, without side placement, no top rope, just temporary madness, so where did the E4 come from ?
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βeta: Brilliant slab climb. When I did it (a long time ago) it was only E2, without side placement, no top rope, just temporary madness, so where did the E4 come from ?
Jon Greengrass 17 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: One word GORGEOUS!! Slab climbing at its best. Can't wait to have a go at the lead.
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βeta: One word GORGEOUS!! Slab climbing at its best. Can't wait to have a go at the lead.
mark s 20 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: if going for the onsight get a mate too clean the mud off the holds left by the toproping outdoor groups
βeta?
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βeta: if going for the onsight get a mate too clean the mud off the holds left by the toproping outdoor groups

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High E5
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Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
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Votes cast 132
High 6a
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Votes cast 190
Votes cast 173
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Route of Interest

Black Grub

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Beeston Tor)