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12m.

Rockfax Description
The flying fin is approached up the bulging arete. Hand-traverse a flange out left then rock onto it and layback smartly, heart in mouth, up the impressive arete. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1975.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The Top 5 E2's in the UK?, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Extreme 2018, Memorable Climbs, John Allen (gritstone) megamix, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pythonist 7 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A summary of the above seems to be right - E2 5c, with the crux at the top of the lower slab, and then a wondeful hand-traverse, rock-over, and layback. It just gets more exciting the higher you get! Contrived? A bit of an eliminate on the lower section, keeping right vs. using the left crack, but not contrived...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A summary of the above seems to be right - E2 5c, with the crux at the top of the lower slab, and then a wondeful hand-traverse, rock-over, and layback. It just gets more exciting the higher you get! Contrived? A bit of an eliminate on the lower section, keeping right vs. using the left crack, but not contrived...
gav p 4 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The thin move to get up to the roof probably the tech crux, although gaining the flake is awkward. Layback finish felt easier but much scarier. Good wires and sling on flake, not a good idea to test its integrity with cams.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The thin move to get up to the roof probably the tech crux, although gaining the flake is awkward. Layback finish felt easier but much scarier. Good wires and sling on flake, not a good idea to test its integrity with cams.
ampfryer 30 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One of the Roaches best. Grade spot on. Bottom is difficult for shorties - top difficult for lankies... Colin Allott is 6Ft plus!( but was about 4ft 10ins when he first did it 10 years ago!)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the Roaches best. Grade spot on. Bottom is difficult for shorties - top difficult for lankies... Colin Allott is 6Ft plus!( but was about 4ft 10ins when he first did it 10 years ago!)
Col Allott 19 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Firstly, this route is top class - I'm sure it was designed for climbing on. Secondly, it's harder than Chalkstorm, so the grade's spot on. Recommend this one for shorties. It's a lot harder for the short, but the hard moves improve in quality the more vertically challenged you are!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Firstly, this route is top class - I'm sure it was designed for climbing on. Secondly, it's harder than Chalkstorm, so the grade's spot on. Recommend this one for shorties. It's a lot harder for the short, but the hard moves improve in quality the more vertically challenged you are!
Dave Pritchard 7 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely a 3 star route.
βeta?
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βeta: Definitely a 3 star route.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 192
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 187
Votes cast 162
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Elegy

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)