Rockfax Description
20m. A classic piece of roof climbing, pumpy and bold though only a bit harder than The Sloth if you are strong. Climb the wall to a thread then traverse the flake to its end and make a couple of strenuous pulls on less generous holds to reach easy ground. Cams behind the creaky flakes in the roof are a bad idea. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Simpkins 1960

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E2 ticklist, 3 Star Graded, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

JamesRich 09/Aug/17 2nd dog
Stanners 09/Aug/17 Lead O/S

great fun. Reasonably swift execution. 5c crux boulder problem start!

with James Rich
mskngch 02/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Elizabeth Allen 21/Jun/17 2nd dnf
with Luke
Luke90 21/Jun/17 Lead G/U

Annoyed to blow the onsight by bottling it at the lip on first attempt. Downclimbed a little towards gear but lost my feet and slipped off. Lowered to the ground and succeeded on second attempt. After thinking I'd dealt with all the difficulties, the earthy and heathery sloping ledge was a little unnerving.

with Liz
James Smith 28/May/17 2nd O/S
with Matt G
Hidden 14/May/17 Lead O/S
L.miura 14/May/17 2nd

Hard start, fell off a few time to reach the good hold above, the rest was great fun!

with Mike
Tim Rodgers 14/May/17 2nd
jimxxx 01/May/17 Lead O/S

Found the boulder start hard but the flakes were perfect . Loved it .

with Craig, KeenClimber
KeenClimber 01/May/17 2nd O/S
with jimxxx
beni 23/Apr/17 Lead
Gus 23/Apr/17 Lead
James Oakes 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S
amccann 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 25/Mar/17 2nd O/S
with Jake
Jake Young 25/Mar/17 Lead G/U

first trad lead of the year/slightly green and any other excuse I can have for not doing it straight away.

with Nick
Guy Bennell ??/2017 2nd
Ids1165 ??/2017 Lead
charliepickering 08/Nov/16 2nd
Rory_Cummings_NI 08/Nov/16 Lead O/S
john lynch 22/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Ant King
aking12 22/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Wizzy 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Crux at the start and then sustained 5b through the roof. Pumpy

sev 02/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with Sammy
robgixer 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Mr Wild 07/Aug/16 2nd
with Will Woodhead
Chris Redding 13/Jul/16 Lead O/S

First moves harder than the rest of the route. Flakes are huge so roof is easy.

Rob Gillespie 02/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Stroppy 08/May/16 Lead O/S

Wasn't expecting the first few moves to be as hard, but pleasantly surprised by the holds on the lip. A Jonny Dawes 3 second holiday worked a treat before launching into the roof

with Tom Dewhurst
Tim Rodgers 07/May/16 2nd
robertmichaellovell 07/May/16 Lead
with Wanneys
Graeme Hammond 17/Apr/16 2nd rpt
with Chris Hindley
MischaHY 26/Feb/16 2nd
AdamFreeman 26/Feb/16 Lead O/S

Tough first move then eases off into an amazing roof section!

Hidden 13/Feb/16 2nd
Alkis 13/Feb/16 Lead dnf

After exiting the roof and getting both feet on the ledge, the last jug on the headwall, and everything on the left in general, was completely drenched. Got my hand totally wet, slipped off, inverted and smacked my knee on the wall, ending the attempt and all climbing for the weekend.

thomas108 ??/2016 -
willoates ??/2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 21/Sep/15 Lead rpt
matt1024 19/Sep/15 2nd dog
with Mark Stevenson
islandlynx 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Pump placing gear in the roof. Got my leg twisted round the rope and had to cut loose. Climb backed down for a rest a couple of times.

Matt77 05/Sep/15 Lead β

On Shane's gear

with Alex Horton, Tom Riddelsdell, Shane
TomRiddelsdell 05/Sep/15 Lead β

Lead on Shanes gear. Pretty gripping!

dswansonlow 09/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Lisa
Robs_Uren 09/Aug/15 2nd dnf
with Ric De Silva
dswansonlow 08/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with RKirke
RKirke 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Dougie
Will Mortimer 25/Jul/15 Lead dog

The roof flakes feel solid. Intimidating crux coming out over the lip. Then a horrible over grown upper section, that's not seen much traffic I suspect. In need of a clean.

Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/15 Lead O/S
MichaelGallimore 30/May/15 Lead O/S

Upside down land! Superb lower section. Crack was damp but it didn't matter. Shame the top section is a bit bland. The first moves felt insecure. Just worth e2.

with Flavio
Flavio 30/May/15 2nd O/S
lee1234 13/May/15 2nd dnf

Need to be a lot stronger

callumbtaylor 04/May/15 Lead dnf

'Inches from a broken neck' whipper from the lip with gear popping, got pumped - didn't try harder enough/need to climb better!

Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
GouldHarry ??/2015 Lead O/S
rock_hopp5r ??/2015 -
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Martin Bagshaw 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Neil Passmore
phildawson 18/Sep/14 2nd RP

tried for the lead but chickened out through the crux. got it clean first go on second though, i hadn't realised how close i was.

with Chris Shepherd
Hidden 16/Sep/14 Lead β
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
nepsoi999 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Tim Rodgers 09/Aug/14 2nd
with Chris Down
Brannock 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Andrew Abraham 13/Jul/14 2nd rpt
monsteratt 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Took a little while tocommit to the roof. Good, but shame about the top half.

Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S

awesome. was holding on with only one hand at one point. like a slightly harder sloth.

with Roisin
Mike Todd 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Way easier than it looks, but still a great route. Not quite 3 star when you compare it to something like Commander Energy but still quality.

with Ian
Andrew Abraham 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Pete smashed it then left the gear in so I led on that. Been on the list for a few years so good to get this done, much easier than I expected

jumpingjimminy 13/Jun/14 2nd dnf
with Andy L
WillDoyle ?/Jun/14 Solo
hervenuttall ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Elliot
JayAyBee 16/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
oliver.ghill91 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Johnny
funsized 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Lead on Olly's gear. Put a massive smile on my face. Fantastic!

with Olly
Hidden ??/2014 -
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S
msoldn 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Fun unprotected dyno through bottom crux, then pure jug pulling through overhang, great fun. Top was a lovely calm after the storm.

with Richard
8athomas 07/Jul/13 TR O/S

really good and it gives you such a great buz

Hidden 06/Jul/13 TR dog
HAJ Francis 02/Jul/13 Lead β
spidermonkey09 27/Jun/13 Lead dnf

The start is never 5b, solid 5c and even harder if you're short. Looks like a small hold might have gone on the right edge of the flake.

RFWilkie 27/May/13 Lead O/S

Very commiting moves thought the roof, shame the top half is so poor.

Stefan_Morris 24/Feb/13 2nd O/S

In approach shoes.. In the dark... with a head torch... Awesome!!

saffy ??/2013 -
AndrewJamesCherry ??/2013 Lead O/S
with James "The Machine" Salisbury
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 TR dog
olllie26 07/Oct/12 2nd dog

Inspiring lead by Ramsy, learnt some very good things

with Ramsy, teamrob
teamrob 07/Oct/12 2nd dog

Great upside down fun to second.

with Ramsey, Ollie
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead dnf
Haydn Jones 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with pep
Hidden 16/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Mark Warnett ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S

crux is v.early

WillDoyle 23/Jul/12 2nd RP
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 04/Jun/12 Lead
with lee mercer
clipskipper 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Again, not so tough as it looks, though damp, vegetated and run out at the top. As a second, tho . .

with Andy Gardner
kabutsu 02/Jun/12 2nd
BRoe 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Wet and green after the lip, was amazing until then.

Nick Russell 26/May/12 Lead O/S

Took ages to work out the bouldery start, and even longer to commit to doing it. No way is that 5b! The roof was really enjoyable. Overall fair for E2

Granitemuncher 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S

nice moves, the crux is in the first 2 meters. DONT place cams at the edge of the flake.

DaveMo 25/Mar/12 2nd dog

Too hard for me even on second. The start of the climb was the hardest part - long reach from poor holds.

Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 24/Mar/12 2nd dog

1 rest. Great lead by Ramsey!

with Ramsey Villanueva
Mike W 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Jon Read 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Great little route.

Si dH 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Great roof climbing, good holds all the way, a shame about the grotty top

with Neil Furniss
Stig 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Greg
Hidden ?/Oct/11 TR dog
minirollsrule 14/Jul/11 2nd dnf

pumpy as hell, fell 3 times and then was too knackered to go again. still looking for a decent hold on the face to aid the pull through... definatly will finish one day!

with Tim Nixon
shafiq lalloo 13/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Marti999 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Anna
rikbattye 01/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Hannes B 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Sandra & Pascal
thomasadixon 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Main roof section felt easier than the sloth! Start is definately the crux. Good route.

with Mike
BeccaSnowden 11/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Mike
pipof747 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
craig naylor 01/Jun/11 2nd
with nick
Hidden 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S
PerrinT 08/May/11 TR

conversely to other comments i found the roof much harder than the start sequence, though im not practiced at overhangs! awesome climb though massively pumped after!

with RUMC
Keendan 26/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Interestingly the start was technically the hardest part for me. Took several tries to reach the first break. Reached over the lip and threw a silly hand jam in the crack. This went and so did my last cam. Decent fall.

Alistair Corbett 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S

sweet ass route. start was the crux but coming over the roof was bold!

with ben peake
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead dnf
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
sgl0jd ??/2011 -
Bill Lawrence 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S

really nice moves on the overhang, flowed well. shame the top half is covered in heather!

with tommy martin
Alex Winter 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/10 2nd β
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
MNA123 24/Jul/10 Lead rpt

Second time ive led this and it's just as much fun.

with john (Krank)
beci tointen ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Jamie Kean
lukea ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with dan, Al
Hidden 20/May/10 Lead O/S
CharlieMack 18/May/10 2nd rpt
rikbattye 18/May/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 15/May/10 Lead O/S

ACE, found the start hard, plenty of big holds on the roof though

Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
gnc760 28/Apr/10 2nd RP
with James Kay
mark s 22/Apr/10 Lead
with andi t
davewsargent 18/Apr/10 2nd dog

pete lead like it was a v'diff!!!

mic_b 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Michelle
Hidden 13/Apr/10 2nd
jonnyboy 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Ben Wolstenholme
Hidden 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
pie_eater_pete ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
ozbaker ??/2010 TR dog
dmoir 12/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Mr Wild 15/Jul/09 Solo


Birdo 11/Jul/09 Lead dog
with Ed Whitehead
Hidden 26/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/09 2nd
will6459 08/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/09 2nd dog
Hidden 26/Apr/09 2nd
TiffTiff 26/Apr/09 Lead β
with Big A
craig d 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Simon Kincaid
CharlieMack 22/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with William Harling
MattT88 14/Apr/09 Lead dnf

Fell off before reached good gear, ripped one small nut placement and bounced on floor

with Andy Knight
tatz45 13/Apr/09 Lead β
Hidden 12/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/09 2nd O/S
GPN 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Annette
NDD 06/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Danny
Bristoldave 05/Apr/09 Lead β
simonp ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Nicki Hearne
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/09 2nd dnf
eddy-on-the-rocks 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Wet hold ont lip. The top slab was yukky and green.

with Geoff
flyboy86 ??/2009 Lead dnf
with Nick Kennedy
koopa ??/2009 -
will9911 14/Sep/08 Lead dog

had a wet hold just over the lip which was a bit crucial! kept going up down up down to the rest at the top of the slap to avoid the wetness! but the couldnt hold the wet hold and rsted on a cam in the end of the flake ..urgh! have to go back and clean it wouldnt be too hard

with chris
Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Chad123 15/Jun/08 AltLd dog

Bit too hungover for steep roofs and found the first crux pretty damn hard for 5b and no gear either....great route though, just wish I had styled it!

with Emily
Hidden 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
siah 02/May/08 Lead O/S
with gavin nixon
middlevern ?/May/08 Lead rpt
with Mike Blood
Andy Nicholson ?/Apr/08 2nd dog


with Martin C
JGW ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Matt Tilley, Ali Gurney
Nick Taylor 21/Oct/07 Lead rpt
with Tom Martin
Jack Symmons 16/Sep/07 Lead
with Chris T
Ian Parnell 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with helen
riddle ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Mike UKC
Alex Mason 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Retreated twice, pumped. Just got the big lock to the last jug in the roof thanks to a helpful passer-by directing. cool gymnastic (or thuggy),horizontal climbing.

mattyork2 05/Feb/07 2nd dnf
alaan 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Matt
Hidden 04/Feb/07 2nd O/S
Andrew Barker ??/2007 Lead O/S

Year a guess

Pythonist 11/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Dave
bigie bob 08/Aug/06 Lead O/S
feilx 29/Jul/06 Lead β
Ram MkiV 15/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Felt about HVS - obviously been training in the cave too much....

with Alex
ukb & bmc shark 05/Mar/06 2nd
Boy ??/2006 -
lost.arrow 22/Jul/05 -
with Isabelle Membrez
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Keith Daly
Hidden ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S
mark s ??/2005 -
adam carless ?/Aug/04 2nd O/S

an overhanging jug-fest, the E grade is purely for stopping to place good gear in the roof. The technical crux is getting to the back of the roof, after that it's strong moves to the lip, wave your feet about until you hit a hold, then stand up. Month is a guess.

with nick smith
johnboyrevel ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Sam
adam carless 30/May/04 2nd
Hidden 30/May/04 Lead
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 22/May/04 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/May/04 Lead O/S
Tim Steward 24/Apr/04 Lead
with Andy Gibbs
mbutton ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Gus Hudgens
dan gibson ??/2004 Lead
Dave Bond 03/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Rich Hatton
Hidden ?/Jul/03 -
Mark Stevenson 29/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/03 Lead
jamiev ?/May/03 Lead RP
with Adrian Berry
Ropeboy 30/Mar/03 Lead
Gus ??/2002 -
Rob Kinsey ??/2001 Lead
Nigel Coe 10/Jun/00 2nd
with Tim Dunsby
jonka ??/2000 Lead
tlr ??/2000 2nd
with Pom
richsmithinbristol 31/Oct/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/99 TR
Hidden 27/Mar/99 TR
tuftynick ??/1999 Lead
with ciaran troup
Billg 27/May/98 Lead O/S
with Alisdair Pettifer
Mark Riley ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Richard Ibberson
rocktigger ??/1998 2nd
with Ben cool n chopper
martroberts 27/Sep/97 Lead O/S
D Tempest 08/Sep/96 2nd
with Rick
djones66 ?/Aug/96 -

Did this a long time ago. Found it distinctly adventurous for a small route, and a bit strenuous - the potential fall consequences meant I didn't want to heave through until I was really confident in the move; result- hang around and start getting tired. Good buzzz, though. Would doubtless be a lot easier with the rope above you.

with Stve mc D
SR1970 ?/Apr/96 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 30/Mar/96 Lead O/S
with Dave Kells
robtrooper ??/1996 -
Hidden ?/Jul/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/95 Lead
jparry75 ?/Sep/94 Lead
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
Hidden 30/Jul/94 TR
pete johnson 09/Jul/94 2nd
with Steve Findlay
ste_d 17/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with mik
Hidden 04/Jun/94 Lead
crossleysm ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ?/May/93 2nd
Hidden ?/May/93 Lead
Stoney Boy 24/Apr/93 Lead O/S
with Colin Hughes
andrew300169 ??/1993 Lead dog

Never quite managed to get to the top of thiswithout resting at the lip

whispering nic ?/Oct/92 -
with Graham Iles
Michael Hood 25/May/92 Lead
Rich Kirby 06/Apr/92 Lead O/S
with Andy Mackay
channinga ??/1992 -
nai ??/1992 Lead
adi bryant 06/Oct/91 Lead O/S
with Clive
OMSKB 24/Jun/91 TR
Hidden 12/May/91 TR
Roget 08/Sep/90 Lead O/S
with jon
sadams 31/Aug/90 Lead
with Mark Bonham
andybirtwistle 25/Jul/90 -
Chris Reid ?/Jun/90 Lead O/S
Chris Ebbutt ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden 16/Apr/89 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/89 Lead O/S
Neil McA 25/Sep/86 Lead O/S
with Martin Wilson
Hidden 07/Jun/86 2nd
allaconda ??/1986 Lead rpt
Seymore Butt ??/1985 Lead
with Ian Fenton
Hidden 08/Apr/84 2nd
andy gittins ??/1984 -
RichardMc 08/May/80 Lead
with Not followed, Septimus Barbu
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 78
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 74
Votes cast 70
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set