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18m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5a, 10m. Head up the groove to steep rock then pad left at the limit of HVS friction and move left to a stance in the corner.
2) 4b, 8m. Finish up the main groove or the flake to its left. © Rockfax

FA. Dave Salt 1969.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Roaches HVS Challenge

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User Date Notes
Si dH 5 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Thought this was good but didnt think it was anywheer near the limit if HVS friction. It was, however, right at the limit of HVS balance and foot-reach, and it was quite precarious and a bit blind. Good route. Has anyone climbed the flake on the left at teh top? I was going to but it craked ominously so I chickened out...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Thought this was good but didnt think it was anywheer near the limit if HVS friction. It was, however, right at the limit of HVS balance and foot-reach, and it was quite precarious and a bit blind. Good route. Has anyone climbed the flake on the left at teh top? I was going to but it craked ominously so I chickened out...
Alan100 13 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: It's a nice route but low in the grade. the friction traverse has some lovely foothold scoops. It is a full-on HVS move if you've used all you small rocks though! I didn't have any small enough to fit the left thread to protect the finish of the traverse :D good swing potental
 
Show beta
βeta: It's a nice route but low in the grade. the friction traverse has some lovely foothold scoops. It is a full-on HVS move if you've used all you small rocks though! I didn't have any small enough to fit the left thread to protect the finish of the traverse :D good swing potental
andy_b135 12 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route, has a bit of everything, low in the grade though. Much easier than some of the upper tier HVS's. It's much better than it looks.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route, has a bit of everything, low in the grade though. Much easier than some of the upper tier HVS's. It's much better than it looks.
Dan Parker 19 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Great route! relatively easy up the initial crack getting harder at the top, then all to soon it runs out and you realise you've got to smear out into thin air!!! Stuff as many nuts in for safety of mind and have faith.
 
Show beta
βeta: Great route! relatively easy up the initial crack getting harder at the top, then all to soon it runs out and you realise you've got to smear out into thin air!!! Stuff as many nuts in for safety of mind and have faith.
Richard 30 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I really, really enjoyed this climb. It has something for everyone - jams, smears, bridges...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I really, really enjoyed this climb. It has something for everyone - jams, smears, bridges...
shaun walby 15 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A game of two halfs as they say, initial crack is well protected, it does get stiffer the higher up you go. Then comes the sting,letting go of the jug to pad out onto the hold less smeary slab ....focus's the mind well
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A game of two halfs as they say, initial crack is well protected, it does get stiffer the higher up you go. Then comes the sting,letting go of the jug to pad out onto the hold less smeary slab ....focus's the mind well
Alex "wurzel" Thurgood 26 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: This one got the better of me first time round and I wanged off on the move out of the bottom groove. Nice fall to the ground, only cut short by my trusty and well placed 7 nut high up in the groove. Good job my second was awake or else it was curtains. Still got the scars of the rope as it cut through the back of my hand. 2nd time up, was a bit more careful. Nice route, but not for the lighthearted (and I measure my words).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This one got the better of me first time round and I wanged off on the move out of the bottom groove. Nice fall to the ground, only cut short by my trusty and well placed 7 nut high up in the groove. Good job my second was awake or else it was curtains. Still got the scars of the rope as it cut through the back of my hand. 2nd time up, was a bit more careful. Nice route, but not for the lighthearted (and I measure my words).

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 144
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 140
Votes cast 129
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Hen Cloud Eliminate

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Hen Cloud)