UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
Follow the groove of Pebbledash then climb the disappearing crack in the steep wall until a right-trending ramp can be followed rapidly to easy ground. © Rockfax

FA. Simon Nadin 1984.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Best Before 2025 , Western Grit List , Will's Whippers

Feedback

User Date Notes
WillMancini 30 Jan Show βeta
βeta: What a route, absolutely 3 star in my opinion and deserves more popularity. Definitely a well kept secret. Completely nails for the grade but brilliant climbing in a stunning location. If you’re short the run out will be a lot more serious at the top - be careful, as might be a ground fall unless your belayer is talented. Don’t be put off, this should be a classic and the crux is 100% whipable. Safe crux but certainly closer to 6b and the huge run out makes it more E5 - especially if you can’t reach the final pocket/ cannon hole from the mantle. Would recommend, but a bit under graded.
Show beta
βeta: What a route, absolutely 3 star in my opinion and deserves more popularity. Definitely a well kept secret. Completely nails for the grade but brilliant climbing in a stunning location. If you’re short the run out will be a lot more serious at the top - be careful, as might be a ground fall unless your belayer is talented. Don’t be put off, this should be a classic and the crux is 100% whipable. Safe crux but certainly closer to 6b and the huge run out makes it more E5 - especially if you can’t reach the final pocket/ cannon hole from the mantle. Would recommend, but a bit under graded.

Logged Ascents

13 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Roaches Lower Tier

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 17 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 4
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Lead
Not Set
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Caesarian

Grade: E4 6b ***
(Hen Cloud)

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