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12m.

Rockfax Description
12m. Approach via the roofed in hanging groove to join The Mincer. Follow this through the bulge then from a large chockstone runner (or use it as a belay) sketch right across the slight weakness in the slab, to reach the finger crack and a short sprint to safety. Modern boot rubber is a big help, though it was five years before it was first used on this one! © Rockfax

FA. Gabe Regan 1977

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Ultimate E3 ticklist, James' Winter Grit ticklist, The List

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User Date Notes
Fraser kid 2 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The tat needs replacing on the chockstone as showing a bit of the core for what I could tell, but adequate placement instead, unless you are bailing from there. Didn’t have any means to replace it, as was too busy getting tenderised by the mincer!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The tat needs replacing on the chockstone as showing a bit of the core for what I could tell, but adequate placement instead, unless you are bailing from there. Didn’t have any means to replace it, as was too busy getting tenderised by the mincer!
Aly 13 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Since when did this involve smearing? It's covered in holds!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Since when did this involve smearing? It's covered in holds!
mark s 10 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: someone thinks this is 6b?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: someone thinks this is 6b?
Dave Pritchard 10 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A real soft touch at E3.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A real soft touch at E3.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
clanger ?? Lead O/S
jimxxx 16 Jul, 2019 Lead rpt
with Craig
with Craig
makzimum 19 May, 2019 TR dnf
dmurray 12 May, 2019 Lead rpt Chuffed to finally lead this
with Sach
Chuffed to finally lead this
with Sach
Hidden 31 Mar, 2019 Lead O/S
WilliamRupp 24 Mar, 2019 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Mar, 2019 2nd
dominic lee 23 Feb, 2019 Lead O/S
with Andy Peak 1
with Andy Peak 1
Andy Peak 1 23 Feb, 2019 2nd rpt Lovely
with Dom lee
Lovely
with Dom lee
themattyshep 13 Feb, 2019 Lead β
Hidden 1 Jan, 2019 2nd O/S
Flavio 1 Jan, 2019 Lead β
Alistair Corbett 8 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S Over the moon with this tick, slabs are not my forte! The gear is good and I fairly felt safe on the crux. I did try and reverse the moves but upon failing to do so, got serious disco leg and shook my way through to the top! Would highly recommend it after ticking elegy!
with Dave Aucott
Over the moon with this tick, slabs are not my forte! The gear is good and I fairly felt safe on the crux. I did try and reverse the moves but upon failing to do so, got serious disco leg and shook my way through to the top! Would highly recommend it after ticking elegy!
with Dave Aucott
RuFin 10 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt
with pbrown
with pbrown
Alice Thompson 12 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with Shaun, Ru
with Shaun, Ru
RuFin 12 May, 2018 2nd O/S
treesrockice 11 Mar, 2018 Lead dog Damp, slippery
Damp, slippery
Hidden 15 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
Sammy Oakes 14 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Not too hard, but amazing route! rope drag is a mare with the runner in the wrong place.
Not too hard, but amazing route! rope drag is a mare with the runner in the wrong place.
lukevf 8 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf
manwithacam 2 Apr, 2017 Lead great climbing, chuffed to not fall off
with Mark Grist
great climbing, chuffed to not fall off
with Mark Grist
The Grist 2 Apr, 2017 2nd rpt
with Dan Metcalfe
with Dan Metcalfe
MSchobitz 26 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S Feet are all surprisingly large!
Feet are all surprisingly large!
Teappleby 26 Mar, 2017 Lead β Felt very solid after Clive Coolhead. The hard bit is really only 2 moves. Super route though, climbs some of the best of the buttress in relative safety.
Felt very solid after Clive Coolhead. The hard bit is really only 2 moves. Super route though, climbs some of the best of the buttress in relative safety.
JRJones 11 Mar, 2017 AltLd dog Pitched. Ended up repeating the slab after partner failed to reach the crack and didn't want to further shred his hands by finishing the mincer, fell after getting gear in the crack, so no big deal really
with rowan
Pitched. Ended up repeating the slab after partner failed to reach the crack and didn't want to further shred his hands by finishing the mincer, fell after getting gear in the crack, so no big deal really
with rowan
deacondeacon u 5 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S Should have waited till later in the day but I was itching t get on it. Slab could have been drier, finishing crack could have been a little less greener/ dirtier. Amazing route though
Should have waited till later in the day but I was itching t get on it. Slab could have been drier, finishing crack could have been a little less greener/ dirtier. Amazing route though
ChrisBrooke u 9 Oct, 2016 Lead dnf Couldn't commit to the slab so just continued up Mincer. Not sure whether to give myself a DNF on this route or a clean onsight of Mincer direct..... :) The Mincer bit was fine so I'll go back and do it properly at some point. JW fell and lowered off, wedging a cam irretrievably in the upper crack and forcing me to ab for gear. Fun climbing, but a faffy experience overall.
with John Wilson
Couldn't commit to the slab so just continued up Mincer. Not sure whether to give myself a DNF on this route or a clean onsight of Mincer direct..... :) The Mincer bit was fine so I'll go back and do it properly at some point. JW fell and lowered off, wedging a cam irretrievably in the upper crack and forcing me to ab for gear. Fun climbing, but a faffy experience overall.
with John Wilson
JRJones 12 Mar, 2016 Lead rpt No issues real issues with the slab. Had a battle with some drippy jams on mincer. Shredded a rope when second fell. Rope caught in a carelessly placed cam, blaming the slippery jams. Glad to get it clean anyway.
No issues real issues with the slab. Had a battle with some drippy jams on mincer. Shredded a rope when second fell. Rope caught in a carelessly placed cam, blaming the slippery jams. Glad to get it clean anyway.
mike mo ??, 2016 -
tradandybrown ??, 2016 -
with Rob andrews
with Rob andrews
Proddler ? Nov, 2015 Lead G/U Rope got stuck behind gear in the crack!
Rope got stuck behind gear in the crack!
sparkass 11 Oct, 2015 Lead β Very exciting through the slab.
Very exciting through the slab.
mshorter 11 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
jalqazzaz 23 Sep, 2015 2nd dog Hard move to exit the roof (weighted rope after sitting around too long then got around with a bit of muscle). After some jamming you find out why its called smear test. Although there are a few sloped foot holds but for the hands don't expect anything more than tiny tiny pebbles. Awesome route!
with JRJones
Hard move to exit the roof (weighted rope after sitting around too long then got around with a bit of muscle). After some jamming you find out why its called smear test. Although there are a few sloped foot holds but for the hands don't expect anything more than tiny tiny pebbles. Awesome route!
with JRJones
JRJones 23 Sep, 2015 Lead dog One fall on the roof section. Shouldn't have fluffed it really, might go back and get it clean
with Jonathan Al-Qazzaz
One fall on the roof section. Shouldn't have fluffed it really, might go back and get it clean
with Jonathan Al-Qazzaz
The Grist 29 Aug, 2015 Lead RP Disappointed to fall off the crux and take a sizeable fall. Pleased to get back on it and do it clean next attempt.
Disappointed to fall off the crux and take a sizeable fall. Pleased to get back on it and do it clean next attempt.
Albachoss 8 Aug, 2015 2nd rpt Can't get enough of this, great lead form Ben
Can't get enough of this, great lead form Ben
nimajneb 8 Aug, 2015 Lead
Hidden 30 May, 2015 Lead RP
benw681 10 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with Lewis
with Lewis
Rickrick 4 May, 2015 2nd dog
Jake Young 26 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Amazing, the smears are suprisingly good, i stood around quite abit throughout each move.
Amazing, the smears are suprisingly good, i stood around quite abit throughout each move.
Albachoss 26 Apr, 2015 2nd rpt
Stroppy 7 Mar, 2015 2nd O/S Amazing onsight Banks!!! Really enjoyed moving across the slab in the dark (!) Sublime route
Amazing onsight Banks!!! Really enjoyed moving across the slab in the dark (!) Sublime route
Albachoss 7 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S Shed a tear leaving the sanctuary of the left crack
with Stroppy
Shed a tear leaving the sanctuary of the left crack
with Stroppy
Hidden ??, 2015 -
thomas108 ??, 2015 Lead G/U
saffy ??, 2015 Lead
adam 24 1 Nov, 2014 2nd O/S Lives up to its name - thin!
Lives up to its name - thin!
Stuart Johnston 1 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S
with adam 24
with adam 24
jamesgodwin64 12 Oct, 2014 Lead β i hate it and love it all in the same go, muster up courage and go carefully with faith.
with John Cooper
i hate it and love it all in the same go, muster up courage and go carefully with faith.
with John Cooper
poeter210 5 Oct, 2014 2nd dog
with argentinian machine
with argentinian machine
Hidden 14 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
nepsoi999 14 Sep, 2014 2nd dog
andy_e 7 Sep, 2014 TR dnf
with Mike Gallimore
with Mike Gallimore
Hidden 1 Jun, 2014 TR RP
Si Witcher 13 Apr, 2014 2nd rpt
with Tim H
with Tim H
Hidden 13 Apr, 2014 Lead
Hidden 13 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Mar, 2014 Lead
Si Witcher 9 Mar, 2014 Lead rpt
with James
with James
dmurray 1 Mar, 2014 2nd O/S horrible/brutal first pitch- soaking wet in parts did the traverse in the dark somehow- gripping
with josh
horrible/brutal first pitch- soaking wet in parts did the traverse in the dark somehow- gripping
with josh
Hidden ??, 2014 -
jimxxx ??, 2014 -
mileshill540 ??, 2014 Lead
bwestwood 10 Nov, 2013 2nd
with pete sargeant
with pete sargeant
pie_eater_pete 8 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 26 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S Loved it
with Dan bates
Loved it
with Dan bates
AlexRenshaw 14 Sep, 2013 Lead
julesmckim 14 Sep, 2013 2nd O/S Traversed a bit higher than before...still hard, though the crux is surely that horrible bulge/crack section on Mincer - very happy if I never do that again.
with Alex Renshaw
Traversed a bit higher than before...still hard, though the crux is surely that horrible bulge/crack section on Mincer - very happy if I never do that again.
with Alex Renshaw
ian d f 17 Feb, 2013 Lead dnf Need to go back for this one, fell off slab.
with Jacob
Need to go back for this one, fell off slab.
with Jacob
pete87abs 18 Nov, 2012 Lead dnf tough
with DJayB
tough
with DJayB
Sam Melville 9 Oct, 2012 Lead dog needs to be done clean! awesome route tho
needs to be done clean! awesome route tho
willoates 8 Oct, 2012 Lead rpt retro flash... felt even better this time! quality route.
with Steeve
retro flash... felt even better this time! quality route.
with Steeve
Steeve 8 Oct, 2012 Lead RP got it second go, brilliant.
got it second go, brilliant.
Hidden ? Oct, 2012 Lead dog
Chi Cheng 15 Jul, 2012 Lead dog Fell off 2/3 in on the slab. Wrong foot sequence and could not go back. Got it 2nd go from the ledge.
with Joel Green
Fell off 2/3 in on the slab. Wrong foot sequence and could not go back. Got it 2nd go from the ledge.
with Joel Green
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
maddy.c ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden 11 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
Rob Laird 11 Sep, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 20 Aug, 2011 Lead dnf
richardr 7 Jun, 2011 Lead RP After 2 falls due to lack of trust in the feet!
After 2 falls due to lack of trust in the feet!
Coel Hellier u 2 Apr, 2011 Lead
thehugehead 26 Mar, 2011 Lead
Hidden 26 Mar, 2011 2nd O/S
Lunar25 22 Mar, 2011 Lead dog Fell trying to traverse straight to the crack, once I used the crimps on the shallow flake succeeded fine. Great delicate route! Clean next time!
with Gedas
Fell trying to traverse straight to the crack, once I used the crimps on the shallow flake succeeded fine. Great delicate route! Clean next time!
with Gedas
pbphil169 ? Mar, 2011 Lead dog
skittles 28 Feb, 2011 2nd
with Aufton
with Aufton
Aufton 28 Feb, 2011 Lead dog
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
HowieB ??, 2011 Lead
highlux 20 Nov, 2010 Lead O/S Awesome climb. Slab looks desperate - until you piece it together, step by step...
Awesome climb. Slab looks desperate - until you piece it together, step by step...
Keendan 6 Nov, 2010 2nd dog Dogged on one of the first moves but got the rest ok. Can't imagine leading runouts like this and respect to my climbing partner. My first experience of seconding a 6a route.
Dogged on one of the first moves but got the rest ok. Can't imagine leading runouts like this and respect to my climbing partner. My first experience of seconding a 6a route.
quiffhanger ? Nov, 2010 Lead β
Hidden 19 Jun, 2010 2nd dnf
mlmatt 19 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Excellent climb and one thats been on my mind for ages. Glad I did it but the ropedrag was terrible!
Excellent climb and one thats been on my mind for ages. Glad I did it but the ropedrag was terrible!
hilty 16 May, 2010 Lead O/S did the mincer crux then a bloke at the bottom said to try smear test. easy stuff if you keep cool!!!
did the mincer crux then a bloke at the bottom said to try smear test. easy stuff if you keep cool!!!
jacobjacob 9 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Apr, 2010 Lead dog
gnc760 27 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S Chuffed
with Rose Williams
Chuffed
with Rose Williams
willoates 7 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
juza 15 Feb, 2010 Lead
with Garry Cooper
with Garry Cooper
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead
Ebarnes ??, 2010 -
GF ??, 2010 Lead
jimxxx ??, 2010 Lead dog
Luke Brooks u 26 Nov, 2009 Lead O/S
barni 26 Nov, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Nov, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
Misha u 13 Jun, 2009 Lead dog Got to the good handhold, foot slipped and off I went, somehow ripping my new trousers in the process. Comment from the audience: "Your gear held" - perceptive. Got it on the second attempt. Great route.
Got to the good handhold, foot slipped and off I went, somehow ripping my new trousers in the process. Comment from the audience: "Your gear held" - perceptive. Got it on the second attempt. Great route.
mattnuttall 24 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
with Alan Holden
Jack Symmons 18 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Chris T
with Chris T
Hidden 18 Apr, 2009 Lead dnf
Dan 85 29 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
with bionik
with bionik
Paul ablitt ? Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
with Graham
with Graham
tom 02 ??, 2009 Lead rpt
Lev 1 Nov, 2008 Lead O/S
with Emma
with Emma
Hidden 1 Nov, 2008 2nd dog
alaan 12 Oct, 2008 Lead Oh dear, really can't climb grit slabs - sorted my head out on the third go after two mini-falls.
with Broom
Oh dear, really can't climb grit slabs - sorted my head out on the third go after two mini-falls.
with Broom
CBA ? Oct, 2008 -
UKB Shark 27 Jan, 2008 2nd rpt
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
Rachel S 6 Oct, 2007 2nd
with Richard K
with Richard K
Rich Kirby 6 Oct, 2007 Lead rpt
Jus 28 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Aug, 2007 Lead
gregoritos ? Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with Dave kettle
with Dave kettle
Mr Wild 28 Mar, 2007 Lead dog Wow that last move on the slab was sketchy as anything
Wow that last move on the slab was sketchy as anything
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Hidden ? Dec, 2006 2nd dnf
Stig 18 Nov, 2006 Lead dnf
with Maciek
with Maciek
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2006 Lead
Hidden ? Aug, 2005 Lead dog
Hidden ??, 2005 -
mark s ??, 2005 -
DavidEvans ??, 2005 Lead O/S Early 2000's
Early 2000's
Hidden ??, 2005 -
Tom Briggs u ??, 2005 -
Brian Rodgers ? Aug, 2004 Lead RP
with Kath
with Kath
Brown 21 Mar, 2004 Lead O/S
with Stu
with Stu
Andrew Abraham ??, 2004 2nd O/S Sam Doyle led, a few quality moves where you feel exposed moving across the slab
Sam Doyle led, a few quality moves where you feel exposed moving across the slab
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH u 11 Oct, 2003 2nd β
Gus ??, 2003 -
shoulders 20 Apr, 2002 Lead
with tom
with tom
Hidden 6 Apr, 2002 Lead O/S
philhilo ??, 2000 -
tlr ??, 2000 Lead
Hidden 30 Aug, 1999 TR
Mark Riley ??, 1998 TR O/S
with Richard Ibberson
with Richard Ibberson
sadams 11 Oct, 1997 Lead
with Hugh Cottom
with Hugh Cottom
Chris Murray ? Aug, 1997 Lead Didn't know it at the time, but this was pretty much the high point of my climbing career.
Didn't know it at the time, but this was pretty much the high point of my climbing career.
SR1970 ? Mar, 1997 Lead O/S
nige ??, 1997 Lead
with sven rowan
with sven rowan
robtrooper ??, 1996 -
ste_d 12 May, 1995 2nd O/S
Gambit ??, 1995 Lead RP Date a guess, lovely route, abbed in!
with Tim
Date a guess, lovely route, abbed in!
with Tim
ianabbot ??, 1995 Lead O/S
nai ??, 1995 Lead
AlexRenshaw 22 Dec, 1994 Lead
with Ted Lister
with Ted Lister
pete johnson 9 Jul, 1994 Lead O/S
with Steve Findlay
with Steve Findlay
Hidden ? Jun, 1994 Lead O/S
Hidden ? Apr, 1994 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr u 20 Mar, 1994 Lead third attempt!
with Nick Ashton
third attempt!
with Nick Ashton
crossleysm ??, 1994 Lead O/S
Alan Scowcroft 23 Oct, 1993 AltLd
andrew300169 ? Apr, 1992 Lead dog took a few falls on it but really enjoyed it
with nai
took a few falls on it but really enjoyed it
with nai
Hidden 29 May, 1991 TR
channinga ??, 1991 -
SB_NWUK_99 ??, 1991 - V. thin leading on the slab. It's so long ago that it's difficult to remember whether I started at the left hand side of the slab or lead from the ground, so not marked as a complete lead here. Swing-back potential when going right across the top slab.
V. thin leading on the slab. It's so long ago that it's difficult to remember whether I started at the left hand side of the slab or lead from the ground, so not marked as a complete lead here. Swing-back potential when going right across the top slab.
Rich Kirby 22 Apr, 1990 Lead O/S
with Andy Mackay
with Andy Mackay
goi.ashmore 11 Mar, 1990 Lead O/S
with Richard France, Andy Joyce
with Richard France, Andy Joyce
Seymore Butt ??, 1990 2nd
with Roy
with Roy
Alan Scowcroft 16 Oct, 1988 2nd
with Angus Atkinson
with Angus Atkinson
Chris the Tall ? Nov, 1987 TR Richard had failed to lead it, and I'd failed to get up the Mincer section, but this was easy on a top rope
with Richard O'Meara
Richard had failed to lead it, and I'd failed to get up the Mincer section, but this was easy on a top rope
with Richard O'Meara
Eduardo Martinez 26 Jul, 1987 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Jun, 1987 Lead
Neil McA u 25 Sep, 1986 2nd O/S
with Martin Wilson
with Martin Wilson
mark mcgowan01 ??, 1986 -
with Andy Popp
with Andy Popp
AlexRenshaw 1 Sep, 1985 Lead
with Sean Myles
with Sean Myles
JamieAyres ? Aug, 1985 2nd O/S
with Graham Aveyard
with Graham Aveyard
charlesmfrench 8 Jun, 1985 Lead O/S
UKB Shark ? Nov, 1984 2nd
with Mark Mitchell
with Mark Mitchell
Rick51 1 Jul, 1984 Lead
Hidden 8 Apr, 1984 2nd
Mark Kemball u 1 Apr, 1984 Lead
with Paul Clark
with Paul Clark
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Andy Nicholson ? Aug, 1978 2nd O/S
with Steve Andrews
with Steve Andrews
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Voting
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Votes cast 64
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Votes cast 59
Votes cast 57
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Black Grub

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Beeston Tor)