UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
16m. Delicate dancing, then a butch and bold finale. Trend rightwards up the slab following an undercut flake. Pull over this then tackle the centre of the overhang. Poorly protected and reachy. © Rockfax

FA. Jonny Woodward 1987.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, The Roaches Skyline 'E' challenge, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The List, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Andy Reeve 15 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: With gear in. Sun was well under the horizon when I started up it, fun way to finish the day!
βeta?
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βeta: With gear in. Sun was well under the horizon when I started up it, fun way to finish the day!
Fiend 20 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: An instantly attractive and interesting, if slightly strange route. Just about safe with a good belayer. I could *just* reach the hold via some increasingly subtle foot positions, and it felt right at the grade - however the cool top roof was the highlight of the route. If you're tall enough to reach the hold easily, it would be E3 5b and a better, more balanced route. If you're too short to reach it at all it would be....grossly unfair.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An instantly attractive and interesting, if slightly strange route. Just about safe with a good belayer. I could *just* reach the hold via some increasingly subtle foot positions, and it felt right at the grade - however the cool top roof was the highlight of the route. If you're tall enough to reach the hold easily, it would be E3 5b and a better, more balanced route. If you're too short to reach it at all it would be....grossly unfair.
JTL 2 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: on soloing this the other day,i couldnt couldnt quite reach the hold (Im 5 8) so i spent an hour unearthing a beautiful 6a sequence along the overlap to gain the hold,there seems to be a small cam to protect the final roof, depending on what gear you find lower down if you are short and onsighting prepare for E5/6 6a
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: on soloing this the other day,i couldnt couldnt quite reach the hold (Im 5 8) so i spent an hour unearthing a beautiful 6a sequence along the overlap to gain the hold,there seems to be a small cam to protect the final roof, depending on what gear you find lower down if you are short and onsighting prepare for E5/6 6a
mark hounslea 22 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: if you are under 5'10 then it feels 6a
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: if you are under 5'10 then it feels 6a

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 15
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Caesarian

Grade: E4 6b ***
(Hen Cloud)
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