UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
18m. Reach the ascending traverse from the left (awkward) using the scruffy crack as little as possible. Originally the pocketed slab just right was the start, but this is a polished 5b now. Follow the break out to the right arete and a nicely exposed finish. The direct start up the right-hand arete is Slips, E3 6a. © Rockfax

FA. G.Stoneley 1945.

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock, BMC staffordshire slab exam, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Level 1 Peak Trad Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Iain Thow 19 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Worth the stars for the position out on the arete. THe original start is now much too difficult to fit comfortably with the rest of the route (5b?). Cost me a sprained ankle & a hobble/hitch back to Leek last time.
βeta?
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βeta: Worth the stars for the position out on the arete. THe original start is now much too difficult to fit comfortably with the rest of the route (5b?). Cost me a sprained ankle & a hobble/hitch back to Leek last time.
Dale Berry 2 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The original pocketed start would seem out of keeping with the rest of the route. A start from the crack to the left gives a much more even grade. There is plenty of gear, with out needing to much imagination to spot it. The route whilst big for grit, and ending in a fine position left me more than a little disapointed. Possibly the worst'3*' route I have climbed.
βeta?
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βeta: The original pocketed start would seem out of keeping with the rest of the route. A start from the crack to the left gives a much more even grade. There is plenty of gear, with out needing to much imagination to spot it. The route whilst big for grit, and ending in a fine position left me more than a little disapointed. Possibly the worst'3*' route I have climbed.
Simon Caldwell 20 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I thought the 'skanky crack' was quite pleasant. Can't see the point in the slab start these days as it's far harder than the rest of the route. The slab was very sandy and the whole route was short on protection. Nice though.
βeta?
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βeta: I thought the 'skanky crack' was quite pleasant. Can't see the point in the slab start these days as it's far harder than the rest of the route. The slab was very sandy and the whole route was short on protection. Nice though.
Jamie B 3 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The slab start is way harder; I've seen an E1 leader beaten by it. The rest of it is more like VDiff.
βeta?
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βeta: The slab start is way harder; I've seen an E1 leader beaten by it. The rest of it is more like VDiff.

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High HVD
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High 4b
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High 4a
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High 3c
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
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DNF
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Route of Interest

Great Chimney

Grade: S 4a ***
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