UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
Excellent. A boulder problem start (hard for the short) gains the crack right of the arete. Follow this (thread) to a ledge on the left and mantel onto a higher ledge. Move left round the arete and climb the easy green groove on sloping holds. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars, Roaches w sobote? :), Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner, Peak District Grit Graded List, Level 1 Peak Trad Routes

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User Date Notes
Iain Thow 19 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Good, but surely not a Top 50 route, over in a couple of moves. Great holds, though
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good, but surely not a Top 50 route, over in a couple of moves. Great holds, though
Steve Banham 13 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Never Harder then a severe. It has Massive Jugs, and Threads all the way up to the top, and a thread for a belay. HVD in my opinion
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Never Harder then a severe. It has Massive Jugs, and Threads all the way up to the top, and a thread for a belay. HVD in my opinion
TiffTiff 1 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Tricky start, but once second runner is in, it is easy to enjoy the rest of the route. Just watch your ropes at the top otherwise bringing up rope and second(s) can be a chore
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tricky start, but once second runner is in, it is easy to enjoy the rest of the route. Just watch your ropes at the top otherwise bringing up rope and second(s) can be a chore
Jon Greengrass 20 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: led this with a couple of slings and some pebbles, nice route just a bit of a pull at the start
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: led this with a couple of slings and some pebbles, nice route just a bit of a pull at the start
Steve Banham 18 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It's a VDiff or HVD at most, and is undeserving of a S. I first assended it using a head torch, and the second time in less than 5 min. Dispite the miss-grading it's still a fun route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's a VDiff or HVD at most, and is undeserving of a S. I first assended it using a head torch, and the second time in less than 5 min. Dispite the miss-grading it's still a fun route
LakesWinter 18 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I guess we'll just agree to differ then!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I guess we'll just agree to differ then!
LakesWinter 17 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: There are about 3 threads on the part before the huge flat ledge. There is a good sling on the flake before the 1st thread, not hard after the very first move, all the holds are great, a nice climb and never HS
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are about 3 threads on the part before the huge flat ledge. There is a good sling on the flake before the 1st thread, not hard after the very first move, all the holds are great, a nice climb and never HS

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 114
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 109
Votes cast 100
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Black and Tans

Grade: S 4a ***
(Roaches Upper Tier)
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