A classic route though with an arduous (but avoidable) start. Using the chimney start lowers the route to an amenable HS 4b.
1) 5a, 18m. Climb the fingery polished scoop by a long reach, or avoid it by the chimney on the left. Weave up towards the overhangs, pulling over a bulge with difficulty to enter a groove. Trend right below the huge roofs to the Pipe stance.
2) 3c, 10m. The pleasant jamming cracks on the right are awkward to enter and soon lead to the cliff top. © Rockfax
FA. Stanley Jeffcoat 1913.
The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars, Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The Gritlist, The Roaches - The First Ten