Loading Notifications...
28m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic route though with an arduous (but avoidable) start. Using the chimney start lowers the route to an amenable HS 4b.
1) 5a, 18m. Climb the fingery polished scoop by a long reach, or avoid it by the chimney on the left. Weave up towards the overhangs, pulling over a bulge with difficulty to enter a groove. Trend right below the huge roofs to the Pipe stance.
2) 3c, 10m. The pleasant jamming cracks on the right are awkward to enter and soon lead to the cliff top. © Rockfax

FA. Stanley Jeffcoat 1913.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars, Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The Gritlist, The Roaches - The First Ten

Feedback

User Date Notes
LakesWinter 6 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This is a really good route, the gear is good all the way and the start is about 4c! This 5b nonsense is rubbish, compared to other 5b problem starts like Baron's Wall at Curbar this is really easy!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is a really good route, the gear is good all the way and the start is about 4c! This 5b nonsense is rubbish, compared to other 5b problem starts like Baron's Wall at Curbar this is really easy!
andy jennings 28 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, particularly the exposed traverse to the belay stance. The start is nicely technical but i found it to definitely be easier than 5a, compare it to the start of Pincer on the lower tier also 5a and a similar style but much harder. Shame the top crack is so easy, but it doesn't detract***.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route, particularly the exposed traverse to the belay stance. The start is nicely technical but i found it to definitely be easier than 5a, compare it to the start of Pincer on the lower tier also 5a and a similar style but much harder. Shame the top crack is so easy, but it doesn't detract***.
EarlyBird 6 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Sorry, should have read "2m. right of the chimney".
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sorry, should have read "2m. right of the chimney".
EarlyBird 6 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: This route does start about 2m. left of the chimney, doesn't it? If so there is no pro. until you've done the starting (crux) moves. Felt 5b to me, or is this another "harder for the short" scenario. Rest of the climb is plain sailing in comparison.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route does start about 2m. left of the chimney, doesn't it? If so there is no pro. until you've done the starting (crux) moves. Felt 5b to me, or is this another "harder for the short" scenario. Rest of the climb is plain sailing in comparison.
Tim Steward 28 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: There is another variation start in between 4b and 5b where you climb up a small block at the foot of the chimney, where using a pocket for your left hand and some small footholds, you can get a number 2 nut into the finger crack at a strech, providing excellent protection for a delecate step accross to layback off the finger crack and continue up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is another variation start in between 4b and 5b where you climb up a small block at the foot of the chimney, where using a pocket for your left hand and some small footholds, you can get a number 2 nut into the finger crack at a strech, providing excellent protection for a delecate step accross to layback off the finger crack and continue up.

Logged Ascents

1041 users have logged this
68 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 131
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 131
Votes cast 149
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Technical Slab

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Roaches Upper Tier)