A classic of considerable antiquity.
1) 18m. Climb the well-scratched chimney passing an overhang on the left (polished and awkward to protect) then continue rightwards past the holly to a good stance. The wide bit is avoidable to the right at a lower grade.
2) 6m. Move left then right to outflank the overhangs, or for something harder finish up the steep corner (VS 4c). © Rockfax
FA. Stanley Jeffcoat 1913.
Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Twelve fine routes in the lower grades at the Roaches, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars, Roaches VDiff's, Peak diff and vdiff starred routes and top 50, The Roaches - The First Ten, Peak District Grit Graded List, Level 1 Peak Trad Routes
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