Rockfax Description
A great outing through some impressive territory.
1) 4a, 12m. Climb the flake-crack up the right-hand side of the huge flake of The Pedestal to a sitting stance (low belays) on its top. Starting up the left-hand side of the flake ups the overall grade to S 4a.
2) 3c, 16m. Reverse off the end of the ledge then traverse left and up to the left-hand corner of the great roof. To stop the rope jamming, try fixing a runner out left to direct it away from the crack, then pull over the bulge and finish up the deep groove. © Rockfax
FA. Morley Wood 1922.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Twelve fine routes in the lower grades at the Roaches , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , 100 Western Grit Stars , World Graded List , Roaches w sobote? :) , 3 Star Graded , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza , Definitive *** Peak Grit , On Peak Rock , The Gritlist , The Roaches - The First Ten , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , 100 Best Routes on Grit , Absolutely STOKEd on trent (road to western grit mastery) , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Itsthegasman | 20 Aug |
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βeta: Hard direct start probably 4c, tricky mantel onto pedestal. Pitch 2 easier than it looks, lots of air under your feet on traverse, tricky round the bulge then an easy finish | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Hard direct start probably 4c, tricky mantel onto pedestal. Pitch 2 easier than it looks, lots of air under your feet on traverse, tricky round the bulge then an easy finish |
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| magiiique | 14 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: The belay shelf is awkward to sit on, another reason to consider going LHSof the flake and climbing all in one pitch. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The belay shelf is awkward to sit on, another reason to consider going LHSof the flake and climbing all in one pitch. |
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| DannyLamby | 25 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Superb route, really enjoyed the slab section, anchor was a bit of a faf | βeta? | |
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βeta: Superb route, really enjoyed the slab section, anchor was a bit of a faf |
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| brolte | 15 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: P1 - Tim P2 - Jo | βeta? | |
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βeta: P1 - Tim P2 - Jo |
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| Fraser kid | 21 May, 2020 |
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βeta: Goes over some great terrain for the grade | βeta? | |
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βeta: Goes over some great terrain for the grade |
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| Madajo | 17 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Bigger gear necessary for top belay. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bigger gear necessary for top belay. |
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| Iain Thow | 19 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: THe LH side of the Pedestal is nicer climbing but worth severe. Watch the rope drag on the top pitch. This route got me back into proper climbing after a long post-teenage lay-off, seconding the top pitch in a deluge - wonderful!. Many thanks, Mr Stone | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: THe LH side of the Pedestal is nicer climbing but worth severe. Watch the rope drag on the top pitch. This route got me back into proper climbing after a long post-teenage lay-off, seconding the top pitch in a deluge - wonderful!. Many thanks, Mr Stone |
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| Ed81 | 1 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Led this on the left hand side (S 4a) and thought it was fantastic! Nice and dry on the first pitch, bomber belay. Finish up the crack was a bit green and wet though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Led this on the left hand side (S 4a) and thought it was fantastic! Nice and dry on the first pitch, bomber belay. Finish up the crack was a bit green and wet though. |
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| Jon Greengrass | 18 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: pleasant enough right route is better though. Go whichever way round the pedestal you please. then traverse out airily under the overhang, don't try and climb up into the groove which i've always found dripping green, climb up the slab just left. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: pleasant enough right route is better though. Go whichever way round the pedestal you please. then traverse out airily under the overhang, don't try and climb up into the groove which i've always found dripping green, climb up the slab just left. |
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| Jamie B | 3 May, 2003 |
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βeta: Didn't discern anything 4a-ish about the entry into the groove, but the flanks of the pedestal may just be worth it. A great adventure for the new climber. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Didn't discern anything 4a-ish about the entry into the groove, but the flanks of the pedestal may just be worth it. A great adventure for the new climber. |
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| Horse | 23 Feb, 2002 |
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βeta: Classic of the grade, one of the few in the Peak to practice multi-pitch climbing. Do it on a quiet day. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Classic of the grade, one of the few in the Peak to practice multi-pitch climbing. Do it on a quiet day. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Roaches Upper Tier
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Maud's Garden
Grade: HVD 3c ***
(Roaches Upper Tier)