Rockfax Description
A classic up the slanting flake that bounds the right edge of the main slab; mild at the grade. Reach the flake via polished pockets then keep left (more polish) until is possible to outflank the roof and reach a stance on the right. Trend left above the big overhang (awkward to start) and finish up the airy crack. © Rockfax
FA. Morley Wood 1922.
Ticklists
Twelve fine routes in the lower grades at the Roaches , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , 100 Western Grit Stars , Roaches w sobote? :) , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Roaches VDiff's , Peak diff and vdiff starred routes and top 50 , The Gritlist , The Roaches - The First Ten , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Will789 | 3 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: It’s possible to protect a beginner 2nd on the runout crux of p2 - climb a short way up the crack then shuffle rightwards along a ledge, there’s a bomber runner that conveniently lies directly above the bad bit | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: It’s possible to protect a beginner 2nd on the runout crux of p2 - climb a short way up the crack then shuffle rightwards along a ledge, there’s a bomber runner that conveniently lies directly above the bad bit |
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| PeteC | 12 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: When I first used to go to the Roaches (a long time ago) we always called this "A Route". Anyone still call it that? But whatever you call it, it's a cracker! | βeta? | |
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βeta: When I first used to go to the Roaches (a long time ago) we always called this "A Route". Anyone still call it that? But whatever you call it, it's a cracker! |
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| Sankey | 16 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Don't know how the moves left on polished footholds on the face could be less than VDiff. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Don't know how the moves left on polished footholds on the face could be less than VDiff. |
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| Dave Walker | 28 Dec, 2004 |
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βeta: Enjoyable climbing even if done in freezing conditions. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Enjoyable climbing even if done in freezing conditions. |
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| mwh | 25 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: A very easy VD for the leader (even in the wet) but the start of the top pitch could alarm someone who only seconds VD! | βeta? | |
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βeta: A very easy VD for the leader (even in the wet) but the start of the top pitch could alarm someone who only seconds VD! |
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| JayH | 28 Aug, 2003 |
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βeta: Wonderful route for a (timid?) beginner to second - loads of options for hands and feet and lovely juggy holds by the polished bits. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Wonderful route for a (timid?) beginner to second - loads of options for hands and feet and lovely juggy holds by the polished bits. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Roaches Upper Tier
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Boomerang
Grade: VD ***
(Ramshaw Rocks)