UKC

30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A mini-expedition, devious with some excellent climbing.
1) 5b, 12m. Climb to the block overhang and pull over to the base of a short ramp. Exit rightwards from the top of this to join Black and Tans which is followed to its stance.
2) 5b, 18m. Climb out left then up the short rib to a possible small stance (4b to here). Pull onto the right edge of the wall above and traverse left (gripping - tiny wires) to the exposed rounded rib. © Rockfax

FA. Mick Guilliard, John Yates (alts) 1970.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies., Days of the Week, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The List, Peak District Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Daniel Grout 18 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Did all "3" pitches in 1, didn't have any small kit with me, for an all round wandering and engaging outing.
βeta?
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βeta: Did all "3" pitches in 1, didn't have any small kit with me, for an all round wandering and engaging outing.
TonyM 4 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Good route. Best done in three mini-pitches. Rockfax description does omit to say that 3rd pitch is a 12m 5b. Both 1st & 3rd pitches are bold - the former with a hard final move, protected only by a small RP; the latter on pockets and rounded bulges.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route. Best done in three mini-pitches. Rockfax description does omit to say that 3rd pitch is a 12m 5b. Both 1st & 3rd pitches are bold - the former with a hard final move, protected only by a small RP; the latter on pockets and rounded bulges.
UKB Shark 14 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Definite typo no doubt arisng from the 3 pitch description where the middle pitch is 4b and top pitch is 5b. There is a nervy move to reach and use the hand rail at the top of the first pitch with only rp type protection. Top pitch a bit contrived but still good.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definite typo no doubt arisng from the 3 pitch description where the middle pitch is 4b and top pitch is 5b. There is a nervy move to reach and use the hand rail at the top of the first pitch with only rp type protection. Top pitch a bit contrived but still good.
Mick Ward 5 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: As I recall, the top bit is 5b - and scary with it. Steadiness required.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As I recall, the top bit is 5b - and scary with it. Steadiness required.
daveagriff 5 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Not climbed this, but acording to other guides (which split it into 3 pitches) the top bit is 5b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not climbed this, but acording to other guides (which split it into 3 pitches) the top bit is 5b.
mark s 18 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: good hold over the first small roof and a nice rock over,its all but done then
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: good hold over the first small roof and a nice rock over,its all but done then

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 28
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Gumshoe

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Ramshaw Rocks)
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