A mini-expedition, devious with some excellent climbing.
1) 5b, 12m. Climb to the block overhang and pull over to the base of a short ramp. Exit rightwards from the top of this to join Black and Tans which is followed to its stance.
2) 5b, 18m. Climb out left then up the short rib to a possible small stance (4b to here). Pull onto the right edge of the wall above and traverse left (gripping - tiny wires) to the exposed rounded rib. © Rockfax
FA. Mick Guilliard, John Yates (alts) 1970.
The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies., Days of the Week, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The List, Peak District Grit Graded List
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