14m.
Rockfax Description
Bold and delicate. Climb the slab rightwards to the break then crimp back left to find a finish up the flaky crack above. © Rockfax
FA. Nat Allen 1955.
Ticklists
The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| smoreda | 9 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Possibly cleaner now than what it used to be. Good route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Possibly cleaner now than what it used to be. Good route. |
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| Iain Thow | 19 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: I used to solo this regularly, I think it's much easier than Damascus Crack | βeta? | |
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βeta: I used to solo this regularly, I think it's much easier than Damascus Crack |
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| John Wellbelove | 6 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: A nice climb, but I didn't find the slab part that bold. Then again I love slabs with little edges! | βeta? | |
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βeta: A nice climb, but I didn't find the slab part that bold. Then again I love slabs with little edges! |
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| Fidget | 16 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Glad to see it gets HS in Rockfax, it's S in Staffordshire Grit and I thought that was a bit steep. In fact, I backed off it at the beginning of the day, but then got drawn back at the end. It's actually a lovely route, got a bit of everything from a bold start, to a slab on little ledges, to a smear and mini mantle, to a layback corner. Beta......... You can get a runner in the break *before* you traverse across (not at the end of it), then it protects you on the traverse back too. At least that's how I did it! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Glad to see it gets HS in Rockfax, it's S in Staffordshire Grit and I thought that was a bit steep. In fact, I backed off it at the beginning of the day, but then got drawn back at the end. It's actually a lovely route, got a bit of everything from a bold start, to a slab on little ledges, to a smear and mini mantle, to a layback corner. Beta......... You can get a runner in the break *before* you traverse across (not at the end of it), then it protects you on the traverse back too. At least that's how I did it! |
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| Dale Berry | 1 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: A good head climb for severe. The moves are easy, but the run out great. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A good head climb for severe. The moves are easy, but the run out great. |
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Guidebooks for Roaches Upper Tier
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Route of Interest
Crack and Corner
Grade: HS 4c ***
(Roaches Upper Tier)