UKC

Restricted Access

Climbing on the monastery walls is strictly forbidden and there are old signs on approach indicating no climbing.

20m.

Rockfax Description
The original line tackles the hard crack in the undercut nose of the upper buttress by moving right below the overhang. An old peg and difficult to place protection.
Direct Start, E3 6a - The short but vicious overhanging crack. © Rockfax

rob bennett.

Ticklists

South West Classic VS's

Feedback

User Date Notes
badgerjockey 16 Jun, 2018 Show βeta
βeta: Spent bloody ages on this. Mega committing crux on an exposed line, the pull over the bulge and up is 5b as the sequence is hard to see, strenuous, surprisingly technical and reliant on a rusty peg. The right grade for this is E1 5b if you get decent gear in the roof before the peg (a twisted yellow DMM torque nut goes in one of the vertical pockets and is bomber but the swing would hurt) and also manage to backup the peg with a medium cam. Otherwise it is probably reasonable at E2 5b if you're just trusting that peg. It really does make an excellent route as long as you've not been totally sandbagged... Also the holds do improve with height after the crux. The VS 4c variant avoids the hard climbing by bridging into the blank scoop left of the roof, then moving right to the fun Hook and Eye topout to the right - that is a good one too.
Show beta
βeta: Spent bloody ages on this. Mega committing crux on an exposed line, the pull over the bulge and up is 5b as the sequence is hard to see, strenuous, surprisingly technical and reliant on a rusty peg. The right grade for this is E1 5b if you get decent gear in the roof before the peg (a twisted yellow DMM torque nut goes in one of the vertical pockets and is bomber but the swing would hurt) and also manage to backup the peg with a medium cam. Otherwise it is probably reasonable at E2 5b if you're just trusting that peg. It really does make an excellent route as long as you've not been totally sandbagged... Also the holds do improve with height after the crux. The VS 4c variant avoids the hard climbing by bridging into the blank scoop left of the roof, then moving right to the fun Hook and Eye topout to the right - that is a good one too.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 12
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lotus

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Doyden Point)

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