UKC

20m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

rob bennett.

Ticklists

South West Classic VS's

Feedback

User Date Notes
badgerjockey 16 Jun, 2018 Show βeta
βeta: Spent bloody ages on this. Mega committing crux on an exposed line, the pull over the bulge and up is 5b as the sequence is hard to see, strenuous, surprisingly technical and reliant on a rusty peg. The right grade for this is E1 5b if you get decent gear in the roof before the peg (a twisted yellow DMM torque nut goes in one of the vertical pockets and is bomber but the swing would hurt) and also manage to backup the peg with a medium cam. Otherwise it is probably reasonable at E2 5b if you're just trusting that peg. It really does make an excellent route as long as you've not been totally sandbagged... Also the holds do improve with height after the crux. The VS 4c variant avoids the hard climbing by bridging into the blank scoop left of the roof, then moving right to the fun Hook and Eye topout to the right - that is a good one too.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Spent bloody ages on this. Mega committing crux on an exposed line, the pull over the bulge and up is 5b as the sequence is hard to see, strenuous, surprisingly technical and reliant on a rusty peg. The right grade for this is E1 5b if you get decent gear in the roof before the peg (a twisted yellow DMM torque nut goes in one of the vertical pockets and is bomber but the swing would hurt) and also manage to backup the peg with a medium cam. Otherwise it is probably reasonable at E2 5b if you're just trusting that peg. It really does make an excellent route as long as you've not been totally sandbagged... Also the holds do improve with height after the crux. The VS 4c variant avoids the hard climbing by bridging into the blank scoop left of the roof, then moving right to the fun Hook and Eye topout to the right - that is a good one too.

Logged Ascents

34 users have logged this
10 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 10
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Diocese

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Chair Ladder)
Loading Notifications...