20m.
Rockfax Description
The original line tackles the hard crack in the undercut nose of the upper buttress by moving right below the overhang. An old peg and difficult to place protection.
Direct Start, E3 6a - The short but vicious overhanging crack. © Rockfax
rob bennett.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| badgerjockey | 16 Jun, 2018 |
Show βeta
βeta: Spent bloody ages on this. Mega committing crux on an exposed line, the pull over the bulge and up is 5b as the sequence is hard to see, strenuous, surprisingly technical and reliant on a rusty peg. The right grade for this is E1 5b if you get decent gear in the roof before the peg (a twisted yellow DMM torque nut goes in one of the vertical pockets and is bomber but the swing would hurt) and also manage to backup the peg with a medium cam. Otherwise it is probably reasonable at E2 5b if you're just trusting that peg. It really does make an excellent route as long as you've not been totally sandbagged... Also the holds do improve with height after the crux. The VS 4c variant avoids the hard climbing by bridging into the blank scoop left of the roof, then moving right to the fun Hook and Eye topout to the right - that is a good one too. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Spent bloody ages on this. Mega committing crux on an exposed line, the pull over the bulge and up is 5b as the sequence is hard to see, strenuous, surprisingly technical and reliant on a rusty peg. The right grade for this is E1 5b if you get decent gear in the roof before the peg (a twisted yellow DMM torque nut goes in one of the vertical pockets and is bomber but the swing would hurt) and also manage to backup the peg with a medium cam. Otherwise it is probably reasonable at E2 5b if you're just trusting that peg. It really does make an excellent route as long as you've not been totally sandbagged... Also the holds do improve with height after the crux. The VS 4c variant avoids the hard climbing by bridging into the blank scoop left of the roof, then moving right to the fun Hook and Eye topout to the right - that is a good one too. |
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Route of Interest
A Sackful of Clowns
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Carn Gowla)