There are old signs on the approach paths indicating that climbing is not allowed. However the crag is on CRoW designated land and as such climbing is a legally permitted activity. However, climbers must not climb on, or belay from, the walls of the ruined chapel - this is a Grade I listed building and Scheduled Ancient Monument, and any damage to it would be a criminal offence. Roche Rock is a SSSI for its unique geology and so damage to or removal of rock is not permitted - no fixed gear should be placed here.
Rockfax Description
Begin up Shorty's Folly and then climb the right-hand crack to a spike, continue to another spike and then follow the crack-line, above it boldly to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Mount the boulder of Shorty's Folly and climb the right hand crack on good holds to a spike, then straight up to another spike and then follow crack line, above to the top
J.A.Thomson 19/May/2014.
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Lower Sharpnose Point)