UKC

Restricted Access

There are old signs on the approach paths indicating that climbing is not allowed. However the crag is on CRoW designated land and as such climbing is a legally permitted activity.  However, climbers must not climb on, or belay from, the walls of the ruined chapel - this is a Grade I listed building and Scheduled Ancient Monument, and any damage to it would be a criminal offence.  Roche Rock is a SSSI for its unique geology and so damage to or removal of rock is not permitted - no fixed gear should be placed here.  

17m.

Rockfax Description
Begin up Shorty's Folly and then climb the right-hand crack to a spike, continue to another spike and then follow the crack-line, above it boldly to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Mount the boulder of Shorty's Folly and climb the right hand crack on good holds to a spike, then straight up to another spike and then follow crack line, above to the top

J.A.Thomson 19/May/2014.

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Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 1
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lunakhod

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Lower Sharpnose Point)

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