Restricted Access
There are old signs on the approach paths indicating that climbing is not allowed. However the crag is on CRoW designated land and as such climbing is a legally permitted activity. However, climbers must not climb on, or belay from, the walls of the ruined chapel - this is a Grade I listed building and Scheduled Ancient Monument, and any damage to it would be a criminal offence. Roche Rock is a SSSI for its unique geology and so damage to or removal of rock is not permitted - no fixed gear should be placed here.
Rockfax Description
After the starting moves of Tregagle's Rib, traverse right and up past a pocket and then up over a bulge to finish. Can be started direct at a similar grade. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb Red Dwarf for a short distance, before heading out right past the obvious hole and a steep finish over the bulge.
Alternatively treat it as a boulder problem climbing direct to the pocket and on to the top at about V2 5c. Mats and a spotter are recommended. - FRA Barnaby Carver.
Pete Saunders FRA.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Roche Rock
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Better Days
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Basher's Harbour)