UKC

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Please do not belay to the radar station fence, fence posts or any MoD installations - this could jeopardize climbing at this site. There are natural anchors and stakes where needed. Night firing normally occurs on Tuesday & Thursday but may also alternate to Monday & Wednesday. Note: May 2024, there is a bird nest in the crack above the cave of No Hands. Please avoid the routes ‘Follow the Chalk' and 'No Hands’ until end of July or chicks have fledged. Thanks.

Rockfax Description
Climb the steep wall above the right-hand side of the cave. The bulge is crossed at an inverted niche then finish rightwards. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Originally called 'Hands'

FA. A.Whitehouse 1982.

Feedback

User Date Notes
dinodinosaur 31 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Wire stuck in the scoop beneath the crux. Also I suspect those who find this easy avoid going up into the black seemingly holdless scoop and they skirt around to the right.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wire stuck in the scoop beneath the crux. Also I suspect those who find this easy avoid going up into the black seemingly holdless scoop and they skirt around to the right.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Saddle Head

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 15
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Soup Dragon

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Saddle Bay)

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