Please do not belay to the radar station fence, fence posts or any MoD installations - this could jeopardize climbing at this site. There are natural anchors and stakes where needed. Night firing normally occurs on Tuesday & Thursday but may also alternate to Monday & Wednesday. Note: May 2024, there is a bird nest in the crack above the cave of No Hands. Please avoid the routes ‘Follow the Chalk' and 'No Hands’ until end of July or chicks have fledged. Thanks.
Rockfax Description
Start at the base of the slab at the left-hand end of the wall. Climb down to cross the groove then up and left to a ledge. Follow the narrow groove and cracked headwall to the top. © Rockfax
FA. A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 06/May/1978.
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Caerfai Bay)