Restricted Access
Please do not belay to the radar station fence, fence posts or any MoD installations - this could jeopardize climbing at this site. There are natural anchors and stakes where needed. Night firing normally occurs on Tuesday & Thursday but may also alternate to Monday & Wednesday. Note: May 2024, there is a bird nest in the crack above the cave of No Hands. Please avoid the routes ‘Follow the Chalk' and 'No Hands’ until end of July or chicks have fledged. Thanks.
Rockfax Description
A worthwhile but neglected route which follows the big groove above the right-hand side of the platform. Start at the base of the corner at low tide only.
1) 4c, 22m. Climb the big corner, with a deviation onto the right wall at the start, but mainly on the left wall above this. Belay on a ledge above a chockstone.
2) 4b, 30m. Climb the short subsidiary groove on the right, then traverse a long way left into the main groove and finish leftwards as for Blue Sky. © Rockfax
FA. S.Lewis, J.Harwood 03/Sep/1978.
Ticklists
Pembroke VDiff-HVS , The Best of Pembroke , Orange Spot Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| steve_gibbs | 26 Aug |
Show βeta
βeta: Super route, though can only be approached bang on a spring low tide, with low swell, so the base platform isn't wave washed, after a period of warm weather, as the route is prone to remaining damp/greasy. The second pitch has had a rockfall, making it no longer possible to gradually trend left to ultimately join Blue Sky, rather we recommend continuing vertically beyond the groove, up a right facing corner, until it's possible to make an exposed 4-5m traverse left, under small overhangs, to step onto the slabby finish of Blue Sky. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Super route, though can only be approached bang on a spring low tide, with low swell, so the base platform isn't wave washed, after a period of warm weather, as the route is prone to remaining damp/greasy. The second pitch has had a rockfall, making it no longer possible to gradually trend left to ultimately join Blue Sky, rather we recommend continuing vertically beyond the groove, up a right facing corner, until it's possible to make an exposed 4-5m traverse left, under small overhangs, to step onto the slabby finish of Blue Sky. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Saddle Head
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Bird on a Wire
Grade: VS 4b ***
(Strata Walls)