Restricted Access
Please do not belay to the radar station fence, fence posts or any MoD installations - this could jeopardize climbing at this site. There are natural anchors and stakes where needed. Night firing normally occurs on Tuesday & Thursday but may also alternate to Monday & Wednesday. Note: May 2024, there is a bird nest in the crack above the cave of No Hands. Please avoid the routes ‘Follow the Chalk' and 'No Hands’ until end of July or chicks have fledged. Thanks.
Rockfax Description
A large cave with a pillar of rock in it below long corner up to the left-hand end of the roof high above. It can be reached direct (pull!) or from the left or right and gives fine sustained climbing. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 08/Apr/1978.
Ticklists
ULMC Classics , Pembroke VDiff-HVS
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rick Sewards | 3 Jan, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pretty sure the numbering on the photodiagram on page 75 of the definitive CC guide (Pembroke Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's) is wrong - add one to all the numbers in the diagram to match the text. Mentioned here as following the line for "19" (No Hands in the text) would take you up Smilin' Jugs (E3)! The diagram covers Flake Quake to Final Groove. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Pretty sure the numbering on the photodiagram on page 75 of the definitive CC guide (Pembroke Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's) is wrong - add one to all the numbers in the diagram to match the text. Mentioned here as following the line for "19" (No Hands in the text) would take you up Smilin' Jugs (E3)! The diagram covers Flake Quake to Final Groove. |
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| Phil Murray | 5 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Tough for the grade, esp when the crack is greasy (as it was yesterday). Lots of gear so not arguing with VS, but should definitely be 4c. Can't believe the HS 4b next to it gets the same technical grade! It's a (highly enjoyable) path by comparison. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Tough for the grade, esp when the crack is greasy (as it was yesterday). Lots of gear so not arguing with VS, but should definitely be 4c. Can't believe the HS 4b next to it gets the same technical grade! It's a (highly enjoyable) path by comparison. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Saddle Head
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Blue Sky
Grade: VS 4b ***
(Saddle Head)