UKC

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Please do not belay to the radar station fence, fence posts or any MoD installations - this could jeopardize climbing at this site. There are natural anchors and stakes where needed. Night firing normally occurs on Tuesday & Thursday but may also alternate to Monday & Wednesday. Note: May 2024, there is a bird nest in the crack above the cave of No Hands. Please avoid the routes ‘Follow the Chalk' and 'No Hands’ until end of July or chicks have fledged. Thanks.

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Last update: 03/09/2024  

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25m.

Rockfax Description
Climb cracks to the top of a pinnacle then climb another crack up the wall above. © Rockfax

FA. S.Findlay, N.Doust Aug/2006.

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Logged Ascents

113 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Saddle Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Pembroke and Gower Trad Cover
Pembroke and Gower Trad (2025)
Rockfax
By Alan James, Matt Woodfield, Mark Glaister
Pembroke Rock Cover
Pembroke Rock (2016)
The Climbers' Club
By Emma Alsford and Paul Donnithorne
Pembroke Vol 4 Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's Cover
Pembroke Vol 4 Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's (2011)
The Climbers Club
By Gary Gibson
Guidebook correction for this climb
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
A Dream of Silver Surfers

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Penally West)

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