An imposing lower crack gains some fine open wall and groove climbing in the upper half. Start 4m right of Botterill's Slab at a crack in a short wall fringed with grass.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the crack to the grass ledge. Continue up a flake, past a ledge, to a belay on another ledge under a thin left-trending crack in a steep wall.
2) 5c, 20m. Climb the crack then step left up into a corner. Move up this before stepping back right to a grassy ledge and belay.
3) 5b, 24m. Climb up to a large pinnacle and, from its top, move right to enter the beginning of a slight scoop/groove. Climb this boldly to a stance and belay.
4) 5a, 28m. Climb the ramp on the left to its end, then move right up the short wall to another ramp. Finish up this. © Rockfax
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