Rockfax Description
Start in the corner at the far left-hand end of the wall.
1) 5a, 32m. Climb the corner for around 14m and then traverse right past ledges to a short wall that gains the stance at the top of Trinity's first pitch.
2) 5c, 20m. Move up the corner for a couple of moves and then traverse right to a small spike (back-rope). Move down rightwards to a ledge and belay on the edge of Hell's Groove.
3) 5b, 15m. Stride right to gain the huge corner and follow it to the stance at the top of Hell's Groove's second pitch.
4) 5b, 20m. Move right and down a ramp to gain a large flake that is climbed to its top (sling runner). Make a thin pull sideways and then up to a narrow ledge. Follow this right to a sloping stance (top of pitch 2 of Phoenix).
5) 5c, 15m. Traverse right and follow the jagged crack to its top. Move right and climb up to a belay on the arete. (The original line followed Phoenix on this section.)
6) 5a, 20m. Down climb for 8m before stepping right into the final corner of Ichabod (high runner in Ichabod to protect second). Traverse right to the stance on the sloping ledge at the end of Yellow Slab pitch 3. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A magnificent expedition and a full day outing.
1. 30m(5a)
2. 24m(5c)
3. 15m(5b)
4. 24m(5b)
5. 15m(5b)
6. 18m(5a)
7. 30m(5b)
8. 24m(4c)
9. 30m(5b)
10. 27m(4b)
11. 21m($c)
12. 15m(5b)
13 27m(5a)
14 42m(4c)
J. Adams and C. Read 1969.
Extreme Rock, MIA logbook must haves!, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Extreme Girdle, Nuts of Legends, Traverses of trady radness, A Lakeland E2 Odyssey, Tolkien route names
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Dan Arkle | 8 May, 2019 |
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βeta: 1 star climbing, 2 star adventure | ||
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βeta: 1 star climbing, 2 star adventure |
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