Start in the corner at the far left-hand end of the wall.
1) 5a, 32m. Climb the corner for around 14m, then traverse right past ledges to a short wall that gains the stance at the top of Trinity's first pitch.
2) 5c, 20m. Move up the corner for a couple of moves and then traverse right to a small spike (back-rope). Move down rightwards to a ledge and belay on the edge of Hell's Groove.
3) 5b, 15m. Stride right to gain the huge corner and follow it to the stance at the top of Hell's Groove's second pitch.
4) 5b, 20m. Move right and down a ramp to gain a large flake that is climbed to its top (sling runner). Make a thin pull sideways and then up to a narrow ledge. Follow this right to a sloping stance (top of pitch 2 of Phoenix).
5) 5c, 15m. Traverse right and follow the jagged crack to its top. Move right and climb up to a belay on the arete. (The original line followed Phoenix on this section.)
6) 5a, 20m. Down climb for 8m before stepping right into the final corner of Ichabod (high runner in Ichabod to protect second). Traverse right to the stance on the sloping ledge at the end of The Yellow Slab pitch 3.
7) 5b, 30m. Move right and descend a corner-crack that accesses the top of the Yellow Slab. Descend this to a stance 3m below where it ends (this is The Yellow Slab pitch 3 in reverse).
8) 4c, 22m. Make a slightly descending traverse along ledges, past a steep wall, to a corner. Belay at the top of pitch 2 of Centaur.
9) 5b, 30m. Traverse right and climb a corner to a ledge (as for Centaur). Move right and up to a slab then traverse to a shallow white chimney. Ascend the chimney to ledges and a belay on Shere Khan.
10) 4b, 25m. Traverse right on ledges to a large block in a slab and down climb the slab on Overhanging Wall to a belay at its base.
11) 4c, 20m. Traverse around the arete, move down and then step right. Climb up a short way then head down to an arete. Move around the arete to a belay on May Day Direct.
12) 5b, 28m. Head up the wide flake-crack and traverse right and up into the base of the huge corner. Climb the corner, making use of a crack in its right wall, until moves right reach the arete. Follow the arete to a grassy ledge and belay. A hard pitch that is often wet. This is pitch 2 of May Day Direct.
13) 5a, 24m. Head down the slab of Dyad and traverse around into a corner. Move around into another corner and then go down and across from where a short down-climb gains the stance at the end of Mickledore Grooves pitch 1.
14) 4c, 35m. Take a slim ramp right of the arete to below a bulge. Pass the bulge via a thin crack which leads into a corner system. Climb the corner until it bulges and move right to a ledge on the arete. Traverse right below a leaning wall for 8m, to where an exit upwards can be made to the top. This is pitch 2 of Mickledore Grooves. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A magnificent expedition and a full day outing.
J. Adams and C. Read 1969.
Extreme Rock , MIA logbook must haves! , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Extreme Girdle , Nuts of Legends , Traverses of trady radness , A Lakeland E2 Odyssey , Tolkien route names , Middle Earth Climbs
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