A wonderful bit of rock that can be climbed almost anywhere. The protection is thin, especially on the lower section. Start at the point where the descent goes down rock slabs. Climb a rib passing to the left of a holly tree (possible belay). Continue on the easiest line up the rib above to the top.
Descent - Right (looking out), walk up and gain the gully from above. Left (looking out), follow the cliff edge and scramble down steeply with care to join the descent from the main crag. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An excellent pitch lying some 50m up the descent gully, just above where the descent route climbs down the slabs. Start at the foot of the cleanest rib. There is a holly growing from a crack on the right at 10m. Probably only moderate but graded for the sparse protection lower down.
Climb the delightful slab passing between the holly and the large flake crack on the left. continue up the thin crack-line in the rib, then in the same line to the top. Descend over and round to the left or cross right and use the normal descent path.
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