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5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An excellent route with a very memorable 'step' (jump!?) from the top of the pillar back onto the main wall. For those feeling less adventurous it is possible to abseil/down climb into the notch and re-climb the wall. Popular and consequently somewhat polished.
Start as for Via Fiechtl.
1) III, 60m. As for Via Fiechtl.
2) IV, 30m. Move right of the crack above (Via Fiechtl continues direct here) then climb a slab for three metres until moves right lead to a chimney-crack. Climb this then exit right to a stance on a ledge.
3) IV+, 35m. Follow pegs back left to the chimney-crack (it is also possible to climb the crack above direct, harder at V) climb this then move back right and follow the right-hand crack direct to a stance below a roof.
4) IV, 25m. Traverse right below the roof then climb either of two parallel cracks direct to a saddle.
5) III, 45m. Follow easy ground towards the summit to reach the exit from the final chimney of Via Fiechtl. Either make a very long and bold step across, or down climb/abseil to a chockstone and climb the opposing wall, then continue easily to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The initial steep crack can be avoided on the right knocks route down to S. The jump across the gap adds interest.
110m, 5 pitches

Gluck, Rezzera 1935.

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User Date Notes
Alpenglow 30 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P1 is about 60m, not 30m as Rockfax says.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P1 is about 60m, not 30m as Rockfax says.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Alessandro Tentori 12 Jun AltLd rpt
with Andrea Picasso
with Andrea Picasso
Ellie Berry 1 Sep, 2019 2nd
alex goodall 1 Sep, 2019 Lead O/S Last big route in the dolomites for this trip. An awesome one after the chossy 1st pitch. Crux pitch is glorious, keeps on giving with a number of climbing styles up to an uncomfortable belay in the niche. Start of 4th looks hard but goes okay with some nice exposure around the corned. Jump across the gap is ludicrous, tried to keep a loose rope for Ellie but ended up pulling her over the gap then leaving a heap of slack. Hid in a cave while it rained the topped out to the summit. Starting raining again and a bit wet and cold on the descent.
Last big route in the dolomites for this trip. An awesome one after the chossy 1st pitch. Crux pitch is glorious, keeps on giving with a number of climbing styles up to an uncomfortable belay in the niche. Start of 4th looks hard but goes okay with some nice exposure around the corned. Jump across the gap is ludicrous, tried to keep a loose rope for Ellie but ended up pulling her over the gap then leaving a heap of slack. Hid in a cave while it rained the topped out to the summit. Starting raining again and a bit wet and cold on the descent.
Hidden 30 Aug, 2019 AltLd O/S
Smeato 30 Jul, 2019 2nd Great route once you find it. The first 2 pitches are confusing as described in the rockfax guides. First pitch nearly 60m at least, broke into 2 pitches due to rope length. 2nd pitch easy to accidentally take the direct and much harder route. After that, excellent climbing. The pitch under the overhang is excellent. On good holds but plenty of big pulls needed, retriggered an old shoulder injury. Final moves into the belay were tough on tired arms. Lewis definitely went out the wrong way. Chimney climbed under the overhang and climbed up the the right with a huge step from the left wall. I just went up the crack with no issues. The step was as described in th guides. Bold but easy. It's not as far as it looks but still good fun.
with lewis.m
Great route once you find it. The first 2 pitches are confusing as described in the rockfax guides. First pitch nearly 60m at least, broke into 2 pitches due to rope length. 2nd pitch easy to accidentally take the direct and much harder route. After that, excellent climbing. The pitch under the overhang is excellent. On good holds but plenty of big pulls needed, retriggered an old shoulder injury. Final moves into the belay were tough on tired arms. Lewis definitely went out the wrong way. Chimney climbed under the overhang and climbed up the the right with a huge step from the left wall. I just went up the crack with no issues. The step was as described in th guides. Bold but easy. It's not as far as it looks but still good fun.
with lewis.m
lewis.m 30 Jul, 2019 Lead O/S Reckoned we could knock this out pretty quick so didn't pack any food. Bonked hard on pitch 3, collapsed into the belay stance. Pitch 4 is hard to believe but great fun. Jumping the gap is a lot better than it looks.
with Smeato
Reckoned we could knock this out pretty quick so didn't pack any food. Bonked hard on pitch 3, collapsed into the belay stance. Pitch 4 is hard to believe but great fun. Jumping the gap is a lot better than it looks.
with Smeato
Norman_P_W 1 Jul, 2019 AltLd The main pitch is very good and the jump across the chimney at the top is exciting but easy. Thunderstorm broke on our way down, quite large hail.
with Bob M
The main pitch is very good and the jump across the chimney at the top is exciting but easy. Thunderstorm broke on our way down, quite large hail.
with Bob M
Bob M u 1 Jul, 2019 AltLd Scrappy start but the 3rd pitch is excellent and the start of the 4th pitch has some wild moves to exit the chimney. Jump was no problem. Caught in thunderstorm on the way down.
Scrappy start but the 3rd pitch is excellent and the start of the 4th pitch has some wild moves to exit the chimney. Jump was no problem. Caught in thunderstorm on the way down.
Alessandro Tentori 17 Jun, 2019 Lead rpt
with Kirsten Donovan
with Kirsten Donovan
kirsten 17 Jun, 2019 2nd Variation...
with Milan, Alessandro Tentori
Variation...
with Milan, Alessandro Tentori
Alessandro Tentori 20 Oct, 2018 AltLd rpt
with Maurizio Ravera
with Maurizio Ravera
Alessandro Tentori 13 Oct, 2018 AltLd rpt
with matteo zorzoli
with matteo zorzoli
steve-grigg 12 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S
Alessandro Tentori 29 Sep, 2018 Lead rpt
with Kirsten Donovan
with Kirsten Donovan
PatrickBoothroyd 16 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S fun climb, the step/ jump part was exciting
with NigelBoothroyd
fun climb, the step/ jump part was exciting
with NigelBoothroyd
Teshil 11 Sep, 2018 AltLd
will_benfold 11 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P3 (including the traverse), and the final "bold step" pitch.
with Teshil, mihai
Led P3 (including the traverse), and the final "bold step" pitch.
with Teshil, mihai
Alessandro Tentori 18 Aug, 2018 AltLd rpt
with Luca Gasparini
with Luca Gasparini
Lauradavies23 13 Aug, 2018 AltLd
mikecollins 13 Aug, 2018 AltLd Laura did pitch 1, 2, I did the rest. Pitch 1 is 60m not 30 (as per Rockfax). Description of pitch 2 (and topo) are very confusing. Laura led up the crack line of Via Fiechtl and then traversed across - considerably harder than the actual run. Essentially Pitch 2 is the right-hand crack / chimney. You move right from pitch 1 belay, move up the slab about 3 meters then traverse across at which point you will see pins. Move up the broken chimney to a stance. We climbed direct at pitch 3 (V) which looks easier than heading to the left crack but isn't. Pitch 4 is amazing. From below it looks over-hung and impossible - the rockfax description suggests you traverse right but essentially you go straight up. It looks nails but is a piece of cake, huge handle holds, great bridging and loads of gear. Ace
Laura did pitch 1, 2, I did the rest. Pitch 1 is 60m not 30 (as per Rockfax). Description of pitch 2 (and topo) are very confusing. Laura led up the crack line of Via Fiechtl and then traversed across - considerably harder than the actual run. Essentially Pitch 2 is the right-hand crack / chimney. You move right from pitch 1 belay, move up the slab about 3 meters then traverse across at which point you will see pins. Move up the broken chimney to a stance. We climbed direct at pitch 3 (V) which looks easier than heading to the left crack but isn't. Pitch 4 is amazing. From below it looks over-hung and impossible - the rockfax description suggests you traverse right but essentially you go straight up. It looks nails but is a piece of cake, huge handle holds, great bridging and loads of gear. Ace
peterbeaumont u 8 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 2 Aug, 2018 AltLd
disturbed_one51 2 Aug, 2018 AltLd Lead P1,3,5 The 3rd and 4th pitches were great and the 5th was only memorable for the jump.
Lead P1,3,5 The 3rd and 4th pitches were great and the 5th was only memorable for the jump.
Gawyllie 30 Jul, 2018 Lead
with john meechan
with john meechan
lithos 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd After a debacle of start, 30m my arse, Pete led the tough offwidth crack well, and I led the rest to the top. Pitch exiting the cave is well fun, had to remove rucsac.
After a debacle of start, 30m my arse, Pete led the tough offwidth crack well, and I led the rest to the top. Pitch exiting the cave is well fun, had to remove rucsac.
peterbradshaw101 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with lithos
with lithos
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ? Jul, 2018 Lead
with Alison Culshaw
with Alison Culshaw
Hidden 15 Aug, 2017 AltLd
paul horabin 4 Aug, 2017 Lead
benrhyd ? Aug, 2017 AltLd
with Adam Haynes
with Adam Haynes
Amy121 16 Sep, 2016 AltLd Lead 1st, 3rd (1st 2 3rds), 4th pitch. Epic route!! Loved it!
Lead 1st, 3rd (1st 2 3rds), 4th pitch. Epic route!! Loved it!
mikestr555 16 Sep, 2016 AltLd
tobydunford 18 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Simon Thursz
with Simon Thursz
Hidden 26 Jul, 2016 Lead
Hidden 29 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Aug, 2015 2nd
TomGB 6 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S I led the middle pitches. IV+ pitch felt hard and long at 35m, was glad to see the ring as had run out of ammo.
with Lampy, Stewart Moody
I led the middle pitches. IV+ pitch felt hard and long at 35m, was glad to see the ring as had run out of ammo.
with Lampy, Stewart Moody
lcullum7 4 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
SarahA 4 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
with Duncan Livesey, lcullum7
with Duncan Livesey, lcullum7
Hidden 4 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 24 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
mes32 24 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Led pitch 2 plus half of crux by accident, then pitch 4 which was wild! Awesome moves out the roof pulling on jugs with no feet and great exposure. Step across was straightforward. Great route.
with Dave M
Led pitch 2 plus half of crux by accident, then pitch 4 which was wild! Awesome moves out the roof pulling on jugs with no feet and great exposure. Step across was straightforward. Great route.
with Dave M
alpinist63 24 Jul, 2015 -
Maia 20 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Led 1b, 3, 5. Great adventure getting out of the cave and 3rd pitch was sustained but good.
Led 1b, 3, 5. Great adventure getting out of the cave and 3rd pitch was sustained but good.
Jim Slater 20 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Maia
with Maia
cpforbes ? Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
monkeyboy3000 23 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S 1st climb int he Dolomites lead all pitches,great fun as was jumping over the gap !
1st climb int he Dolomites lead all pitches,great fun as was jumping over the gap !
Matt Schwarz 1 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S jump wasn't to bad climbed route quicker than expecting
jump wasn't to bad climbed route quicker than expecting
phillipjohnson ? Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S through steep crack rather than following ridge line on pitch 3
through steep crack rather than following ridge line on pitch 3
ripper ? Jun, 2012 AltLd lovely varied climbing - especially the belay in the cave, then bridging out, facing outwards, before swinging left into an OH crack. As a 3 with Matt and Chris L.
with Lyness, Matt Chap
lovely varied climbing - especially the belay in the cave, then bridging out, facing outwards, before swinging left into an OH crack. As a 3 with Matt and Chris L.
with Lyness, Matt Chap
PJMuir 15 Sep, 2011 2nd O/S Great climb
with Ash Johnson
Great climb
with Ash Johnson
Hidden 13 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
Doby 25 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S Very enjoyable although the jump across near the top petrified me! First climb in the Dolomites
with Elsier
Very enjoyable although the jump across near the top petrified me! First climb in the Dolomites
with Elsier
Hidden 25 Jul, 2010 Lead
langar27 6 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
JonHarvey 6 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
Alessandro Tentori ? Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Andrea Morandi, Tommaso Regesta
with Andrea Morandi, Tommaso Regesta
Hidden 11 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ? Sep, 2008 AltLd
AndrewJenkins ??, 2008 -
alpinist63 30 Jul, 2007 AltLd
John HW 12 Jun, 2006 Lead Instructing on Garys Exped
with 2 x Students
Instructing on Garys Exped
with 2 x Students
chris wyatt ??, 2005 -
John HW ? May, 2002 AltLd O/S Climbed in near winter conditions plastic boots and all. finished late at night.
with Stuart Mackenzie
Climbed in near winter conditions plastic boots and all. finished late at night.
with Stuart Mackenzie
Hidden ? Jun, 1996 AltLd
Andy Say 23 Jul, 1989 Lead O/S
IanD353 ? Jul, 1989 AltLd O/S
tjekel ??, 1987 -
bobelvedere 4 Jul, 1981 Lead
with Lene Vestergaard
with Lene Vestergaard
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Voting
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Alverà

Grade: IV+ ***
(Averau)