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20m.

Rockfax Description
Super direct and a super route. Start direct up thin cracks in the slab just right of the arete to join the parent route which is then followed to the Leaning Tower. Then climb the bulging crack and well-positioned crest of the buttress. One of the very best routes on Bleaklow. . © Rockfax

FA. John Gosling late 1960s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate HVS ticklist, 'Soft' Peak HVSs., The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

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User Date Notes
Fiend 6 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: An immediately enticing line that offers good quality jamming with an energetic crux bulge.
 
Show beta
βeta: An immediately enticing line that offers good quality jamming with an energetic crux bulge.
spacey 3 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Wonderful climbing. I can't jam but still got a couple of fists in there, so probably proved to myself that I can jam after all!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wonderful climbing. I can't jam but still got a couple of fists in there, so probably proved to myself that I can jam after all!
Paul Evans 3 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: We did the "thin cracks in the slab start" which others have described above. More logical start but not 5a. Rest is pretty steady. Beautiful route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We did the "thin cracks in the slab start" which others have described above. More logical start but not 5a. Rest is pretty steady. Beautiful route.
Jon Greengrass 10 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: AMAZING!! **** a technical boulder problem leads to a perfect hand crack a couple of stiff pulls and some easier ground at the top. The best route i've done on Grit!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: AMAZING!! **** a technical boulder problem leads to a perfect hand crack a couple of stiff pulls and some easier ground at the top. The best route i've done on Grit!
sutty 7 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I think the dates of the FA are out by about 5/6 years, remember doing all routes on that buttress long before the late 60s, all the pisa buttress routes are worth doing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think the dates of the FA are out by about 5/6 years, remember doing all routes on that buttress long before the late 60s, all the pisa buttress routes are worth doing.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 116
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 113
Votes cast 113
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Valkyrie

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)