UKC

Climbs 114
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 432m a.s.l
Faces N

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Alex on Cool Man's Wall © grubes

Crag features

A long abandoned quarry overlooking the town of Marsden, to the southwest of Huddersfield. The quarry is very extensive and would make one of the most impressive venues hereabouts if it wasn't for the fact that it is north-facing, with some loose rock around and some access issues.

The crag almost faces due north and is at its best on warm summer evenings or as an escape from the heat of summer. A few of the buttresses protrude far enough to catch the afternoon sun and one wall of The Rostrum is the most notable of these. The crag is green and unattractive in the winter and is best avoided.

Approach notes

There is parking by the southeast corner of the dam - the signs indicate that the road is private (water board) but the local dog walkers and bird watchers certainly use it. The old quarry tracks lead into the left-hand end of the workings. Parking further down the road by the no access sign adds about 10 minutes to the approach. Alternatively, park on the side of the A6107 Meltham Road, just east of Marsden and follow the public Right of Way that runs up the old quarry road across the moor all the way to the quarry. From the dam, the approach takes 20 minutes, from the other two parking spots, 30 minutes.

 

NO ACCESS TO PARKING - LOCKED GATE JUST BEFORE RESEVOIR

Restricted Access

Part of the crag falls within the fall of shot zone for the rifle rage below the crag run by Lydgate Rifle & Pistol Club and frequently used by Police firearms units, so it is very important that all visiting climbers understand the access agreement for their own safety:

  • From The Rostrum rightwards inclusive, falls outside of the fall of shot zone and is on Open Access land, meaning there is free and open access to this part of the crag at all times.
  • Left of The Rostrum is the fall of shot zone from the rifle range below where large calibre firearms are frequently used. For safety reasons, access is only allowed to this part of the crag (and Deer Hill Moss behind) on Friday after 6pm year round when shooting should not be happening.
  • With that said, if red flags are flying on a Friday evening, don't chance it and stray into the fall of shot zone. Likewise, shooting can take place at any time during the day, so just because shooting isn't happening when you turn up, don't be tempted to use the left side of the crag on other days.
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