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At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.

Climbs 114
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 432m a.s.l
Faces N

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Alex on Cool Man's Wall © grubes

Crag features

A long abandoned quarry overlooking the town of Marsden, to the southwest of Huddersfield. The quarry is very extensive and would make one of the most impressive venues hereabouts if it wasn't for the fact that it is north-facing, with some loose rock around and some access issues.

The crag almost faces due north and is at its best on warm summer evenings or as an escape from the heat of summer. A few of the buttresses protrude far enough to catch the afternoon sun and one wall of The Rostrum is the most notable of these. The crag is green and unattractive in the winter and is best avoided.

Approach notes

There is parking by the southeast corner of the dam - the signs indicate that the road is private (water board) but the local dog walkers and bird watchers certainly use it. The old quarry tracks lead into the left-hand end of the workings. Parking further down the road by the no access sign adds about 10 minutes to the approach. Alternatively, park on the side of the A6107 Meltham Road, just east of Marsden and follow the public Right of Way that runs up the old quarry road across the moor all the way to the quarry. From the dam, the approach takes 20 minutes, from the other two parking spots, 30 minutes.

Restricted Access

Restrictions on access (for public safety reasons) apply to the shooting range, the crag, and Deer Hill Moss. The shooting club have strict legal obligations to ensure their activities do not represent a threat to the public. Members of Lydgate Rifle and Pistol Club can shoot at any time during the day, and it is therefore important that climbers do not access the LH part of the crag outside of the agreed dates/times.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

The BMC have been collaborating with the Lydgate Pistol & Rifle Club on several issues over the past couple of years, and after a reassessment of the ‘fall of shot’ safety zone it transpires all routes/bouldering on The Rostrum and areas to the right are outside of the new zone. This part of the crag is now Open Access land without restrictions, and can be accessed at any time.

The remainder of the crag (left of The Rostrum & the descent) is within the ‘fall of shot’ zone and can only be accessed on Friday evenings after 6pm .

This is a well frequented live firing range where large calibre, high velocity firearms are used. It is vital climbers remember this and do not access the LH sections of the crag if shooting is taking place. Shooting is not supposed to take place on Friday evenings, but people make mistakes, for example by shooting at the wrong time or leaving the warning flags out - either way, if flags are out or shooting is taking place why chance it? We advise all climbers wishing to access the crag on Friday’s to determine if people are shooting from the car park or clubhouse.

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Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Over the Moors (2012)
Lancashire Rock (1999)

Gate on the road leading to the gun club locked (two non-combination padlocks) yesterday. No evidence of the waymarking mentioned in Over The Moors on the approach path either.
cheque - 15/Dec/19
I had the same experience as Philip
Cake - 15/May/19
Had trouble attempting to park at the gun club on 27/02/19, in that the access gate was locked with two padlocks. Didn't notice them to be combination locks as another commenter has mentioned but regardless it meant we had to drive around to Marsden and walk up from there which was fine and added only maybe 10/15 minutes on. Can anyone confirm access arrangements via the gun club?
mrphilipoldham - 28/Feb/19
If climbers wish to park at the gun club there is a locked gate with a combination lock and I was told by gun club members that if I wished to enter I had to contact the BMC for the code. Also members of the gun club seem to be under the impression that Shooter's Nab can only be accessed by members of the BMC.
Deezel65 - 27/Jun/15
Ricochet Wall and Sweatyman are the best routes in the Huddersfield area and stand up to anything in the Peak.
Hardonicus - 15/Aug/08
This is where it all started for me back in about 1974. Although only a small section feels properly crag like, this palce has lots of atmosphere and some good routes. A classic at what was VD but is now HS is Rifleman\'s Chimney (I used to do it as a multi pitch as we were using short polypropolene ropes!!!). Also recommnded is Sweatyman which was VS+ which inludes a stomach traverse. Not sure about access these days, but am about to re-visit.
mike newman - 13/Aug/02
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Climbs at this crag

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