UKC

Restricted Access

The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

22m.

Rockfax Description
Classic crack climbing. Move up some left-facing flakes to reach the crack and follow it all the way to where moves out right lead to a tree and belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start on the left of the buttress below the open book corner/groove with a central flake. Climb straight until you reach the groove and continue up using a combination of laybacking and bridging. Stay within the groove until the end, trending right towards belay at the end.
Good protection behind the flake.

S. Moss, R. Thomas 1975.

Ticklists

Shorn Cliff Nose , But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook

Feedback

User Date Notes
PaulJepson 24 Mar Show βeta
βeta: There are some quite dangerous loose blocks around the belay. One looked like a nice place to stand but it wobbled and had nothing much under it. Could kill someone on the ground so don't lay your picnic blanket there.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are some quite dangerous loose blocks around the belay. One looked like a nice place to stand but it wobbled and had nothing much under it. Could kill someone on the ground so don't lay your picnic blanket there.
Happy Wanderer 14 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Wasp nest still very much in use in raised ground under ivy to left of the crag. Like a busy Heathrow. Would not have climbed there had we noticed it before we finished the route!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wasp nest still very much in use in raised ground under ivy to left of the crag. Like a busy Heathrow. Would not have climbed there had we noticed it before we finished the route!

Logged Ascents

291 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 62 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 58
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 55
Votes cast 53
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Orange Wall

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Symonds Yat)

Loading Notifications...